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Print versionThey say that purchasing your house is the biggest commitment you'll ever make. True! But buying your first boat is full of costly pitfalls too, with simple mistakes gulping up large slices of hard earned cash.
Just a little thought and prior preparation puts you in the driving seat literally, with a boat package that's suited to the type of fishing you do and the areas you fish in. Here's a step by step guide to buying your first boat.
1. BOAT SUITABILITY
The first question is not a financial one, it's one of boat design. You need to decide on the areas you'll fish most, how far you'll need to fish offshore to find the type of fishing you want to do, and also the quality of launch facilities available in these areas for small craft.
 Look for a good trailer |
Next in line is a semi-displacement design. This retains the traditional bow design aimed at cutting water, but has under hull areas flattened so that once a certain speed has been attained the bow will rise out of the water and let the boat skim along the surface with only the middle to rear section touching the surface. Bigger motors are required to get this speed. Handling wise, they are still good at bringing you home in rough conditions that dictate that speed is reduced to a minimum.
Planing hulls, sometimes called trihedral or cathedral hulls, have a flattened underside to give maximum lift when the power from a big motor is applied. Once power is applied they literally skim across the surface water. Speeds can exceed 40 knots. They are extremely stable, suffer slightly at anchor being prone to swing on the anchor rope, but do not have good steerage and slam into heavy seas due to the blunt nose when conditions force a slow speed home. They do though, allow a vast travelling arc to be explored. Thirsty mind, burning on average 5 gallons and hour, but this is balanced against the distance travelled quickly.
Any boat under 14ft should not be classed as a sea boat. A boat of 16ft should be regarded as being the most sensible safety option for two anglers and their gear.
A very much simplified assessment this, but gives the first time buyer an idea of what to consider and allows him to search out more relevant information before making his final decision.
 Something capable of towing |
Next to consider is what you can personally physically handle, will you need to launch the boat on your own, or will you always have a companion?
A 15ft boat can be a handful on your own in a lateral tide, even on a concrete slipway and impossible if you need to beach launch. A 16ft-17ft boat is really a two man affair immaterial of where the launch will be. If you'll fish single handed, then stick to boats no more than 15ft and be happy within a mile off shore.
The other consideration is what will you tow with? Nine times out of ten you'll have to press the existing family saloon into service. If your current car has a 1200cc engine, then it's no good buying a 17ft planing hull, 60hp motor, spare 6hp engine and twin wheeled trailer. The weight of the boat package will also kill off the car if you live a fair distance from the launch site. This is one of the commonest mistakes made.
Its obvious, but a 4-wheel drive vehicle takes all the work and much of the worry out of launching boats of any size. If you can afford a second-hand 4x4, then this is the way to go. Land Rovers are by far the best. My own Discovery once pulled two boats out at once linked together up a muddy and wet shingle bank when an emergency dictated it.
You must match the total weight of the boat, trailer, engines and accessories to both the size of your car engine and the towing weight allowed by your car. A car can only legally tow half it's own kerb side weight. The average family saloon may weigh around 1100kgs meaning a gross towing weight allowed of 550kgs. A standard 15ft hull, main and spare engine, accessories, and don't forget the trailer itself will, put together, easily exceed this.
3. NEW OR SECOND-HAND?
Can I afford a new boat, or do I search through the second-hand market? If possible go for a new boat and engine package. It's obvious, you get a warranty, a unit with no built in problems created by the previous owner, and above all else the highest degree of reliability possible. The majority though, will have to take their chance in the second-hand market place.
Yes, the second-hand boat scene is full of traps, but there are some excellent bargains to be had. To secure one it takes patience, self control, and common sense.
Getting finance for a new package will possibly be easier than for a pre owned vessel. The bank manager knows that if something goes wrong a nearly new outfit is worth more and sells better than a second or third hand craft. Some boat yards and dealers may be able to piece together a good deal for you, though it's wise to check current bank and building society loan deals first.
To put a figure on this a sum of £2500 is the minimum to have when looking for a reasonable second-hand outfit. Less than this, then there is the odd bargain about, but mostly you're buying a lot of work to get the boat back to good condition. The only bright side may be that the boat comes with a spare smaller engine, maybe a sounder and radio, plus anchors, fenders and other essential bits. If these are in good condition this can save a massive sum.
New packages are going to cost from about £4000 upwards. And don't forget that you still have to buy all the accessories like flares, radios, sounders, compasses, anchors, fenders, life jackets etc. You'll need a good thousand extra for all these on top of the purchase price.
4. PARTNERSHIPS
Because of the high finance involved some anglers decide to club together, pool their money, and therefore bring a better sea going unit within their grasp at a shared cost. But what are the pitfalls?
Before considering any coalition, and this includes unions with close friends, it's wise to draw up a written agreement using a solicitor detailing exactly what each member is expected of. Partnerships have a nasty habit of falling out and this agreement will save the worst of potential disagreement consequences. Pay particular attention to what will happen if one member decides he wants to sell his share, and lay out ground rules so that every participant shares the maintenance work load.
With this in mind some partnerships decide that one member buys the boat, another the trailer, and the third is responsible for the motor. At least then a disillusioned party can take his "bit" with him leaving those left at least with a saleable item.
 Good, well looked after electrics |
The post Christmas period is often referred to as the best time to buy. This based on the fact that some unfortunate soles have over spent on the festivities and need to cash in their assets. If you've got the guts to put pressure on somebody like this then you'll make a good deal.
Truth is, that some of the best bargains occur immediately after the main season ends in October. Dinghy owners wanting to trade their craft in for a new one will put them up for sale straight away to make maximum use of time available to buy and ready a new craft for the coming summer.
When looking for a boat, immaterial of timing, just keep looking. It's a fact of life that bad circumstances can hit at anytime forcing the sale of some poor lads pride and joy. His black cloud might be your ray of sunshine.
6. WHERE TO LOOK
If you've decided on a new package, then pick out specialist dealers that carry the type of craft you want. They will have a selection and may even be able to take you out on a test run. The best deals tend to be with the smaller retailer rather than the big boat yards specialising in hundred thousand pound yachts.
If its a second-hand boat, then the obvious place to start is close to home working further away if needed. Let someone know at a nearby small boat club that you are in the market for a particular type of boat. This is the best way to get a well equipped craft ready to fish straight away.
Don't forget that some retailers take craft in part exchange for a new one. They can be a bit pricey compared to a private sale, but you might get a guarantee thrown in and at least the motor etc, should have been serviced.
Read all the "For Sale" columns in both local and free papers, check out adverts in Newsagent windows, and also those in the local chandlers. Only when you've exhausted your immediate locality should you consider reviewing the national press via boat magazines and publications. It's true that the best and most frequent way to buy a boat is by word of mouth.
Think twice before placing a "Wanted" ad yourself. This puts the seller at a slight advantage and shows that you are eager to be afloat.
7. WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A SECOND-HAND HULL
You'll mostly know whether you want the boat or not the moment you see it. The main thing to glance at is the boats general condition and appearance. If the boat is clean, well maintained, no huge chips out of the gel-coat on the gunnels etc, then the owner has been careful and this is a good sign. Check that the lower hull has no obvious signs of major repairs due to being holed. If it has frequent chips in the gel-coat and looks a little abused I'd be inclined to loose my interest there and then.
Pay special attention to the bulkhead around the joint between the cabin and gunnels. Any cracking denotes a hull that is past its best. Likewise, look for cracks where a fibreglass floor butts up to the gunnel sides and be wary of undue flex in the floor. Cracks around the transom where they mould into the gunnels and splash well also give a hint to potential problems in the future. Also check areas where bolts holding auxiliary engines have been fitted through the transom. If strengthening plates have not been fitted such areas can have large star cracks emanating away from the bolts which, if left long enough without attention, can cause serious weaknesses.
Look for blisters in the lower gel coat at immediate water level. This could be just a sign of poor laying up when the boat was first built, but it could be evidence of osmosis in a boat that has been on moorings all its life. Be suspicious of a newly painted boat. What is it hiding?
A boat with navigation lights etc, needs the loom checking and a battery fitted to prove all is well. Look at the condition of window rubbers or fixings. Lastly, lift the front of the trailer up to see if the boat is holding undue amounts of standing water internally. If the boat has a keel band fitted this could be badly fitted and leaking.
 Give the engine a go before you buy |
Always insist on hearing a motor running. As soon as you arrive put your hand on the motor and see if it is warm. If so, this means that the seller has previously started the motor prior to you arriving so that it will start easily and look good to the prospective buyer. As a buyer, you want to see it started from stone cold.
Again, is the motor cared for, or does it have scars and evidence of rust here and there? This tells you a lot. Have a look at the edges of the propeller for damage. A dated motor may not necessarily be a bad buy, but an abused 12 month old model could be. If possible, take a mechanically minded friend with you. In fact, it's worth dropping a qualified mechanic a few quid to accompany you for the peace of mind. But there are no guarantees with second-hand privately bought boats or engines.
9. TRAILERS
Ideally, the boat will have a galvanized trailer. No rust problems! However, do look from the stern of the boat to check that the trailers centre bars are not bowed with the weight. And check that the front trailer bar carrying the winch mount and ball hitch show no signs of bending either. Taking a careful look at the welded seams is no bad thing too, because a bad one can split under duress on the road when hitting a big bump.
Non galvanized trailers are a real headache. Rusting is internal inside the box panels. Take a wooden mallet and give all areas a sensible tapping to establish strength. Get a good non treated trailer fair enough, but it needs to be nearly new with receipts to prove it for real peace of mind.
Check that the brakes are fully working on a braked trailer, that the brake lights work on the trailer board, and don't forget that tyre's on a trailer still fall under the minimum tread depth allowed for cars.
10. DOING THE BUSINESS
Even when buying a new package, particularly the way the economy is at the moment, try a little polite haggling. You may not get money knocked off, but they may want your business badly enough to include a few extras. If you're fortunate enough to be able to offer them a cash deal, then that does warrant a reduction in price.
When transacting a second-hand deal, again don't be too eager and appear overly interested. Point out all the defects and damage to the owner to prepare him for a lower figure than he was hoping for. If the accessories like sounders etc, are not up to scratch see if he will take these off for separate sale and reduce the price further.
Say his asking price was £3500 and you've made your mind up on the boat, then offer a straight £3000. Haggling will usually see an amicable agreement reached between £3200 and £3300. Never let yourself get carried away and pay over the figure you have decided on. It's easy to do!
The final act before parting with your money is to ask and demand for evidence of ownership. Thieves have a nice line in selling on nicked craft to unsuspecting first time boat buyers. This request is not unreasonable for all cars are sold with a registration document, aren't they, and a receipt of purchase should be a prime necessity for all boats.
11. INSURANCE
It's easy to forget, but you'll need insurance for towing the craft home. Well prior to fetching the boat, inform your insurance company that you will be towing a boat from now on. Even if there are no changes needed to your policy failure to fill them in on the facts could cause a problem should a claim arise.
Separate insurance for the boat is also necessary. You'll get a cheaper rate if the boat is to be housed at your home, especially in a garage, or alternatively in a club compound under lock and key. Also inform them of all precautions you have undertaken to resist theft. Many companies now insist on wheel clamps for both home and commercial storage, and will also give discounts for electric alarm installations. Any security device can make a difference and lower your overall premium.
I'd also suggest having a minimum million pounds third party liability cover against accidents at sea.
Also list all your ancillary items such as sounders, GPS units, radios etc, and give their serial numbers where applicable. Lastly, shop around for the best prices. Some companies can give excellent cover and be £100 pounds cheaper than other companies offering the same protection.
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