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Dodging dog fish and tackle recovery tactics Written by Mike Thrussell
DODGING THE DOGS Dogfish are more likely to move on to the beaches just after a blow when the sea starts to ease down a touch. You'll find that casting a consistent distance out to roughly the same spot sees a gradual decrease in the time it takes for a doggie to find and hit your bait. What's happening here is that you're building up a steady scent lane for the dogfish to follow and home in on. This trick is how good matchmen get a big bag of dogfish, they just don't tell anyone. If you want to catch fewer dogfish, alternate the distance you cast and vary the direction.
Don't use fish baits. Dogfish prefer sandeel, mackerel and squid in that order, and are quite partial to crab too. Even tipping off a worm bait with a sliver of fish will increase your dogfish bite ratio. Obviously dogfish are not fussy and eat most anything they come across, but lugworm is a little lower down the list. If you're casting short in to deeper water, use a rig with adjustable hook snood swivels on and slide the hook snoods up towards the top of the rig to get the bait off the seabed by keeping a tight line to the rod tip. Dogfish are less likely to swim up off the bottom for a bait, generally speaking. This is a good trick when you want whiting but are getting too many dogs. Listen to the catch reports in your area. When the dogfish move on to the beaches they strip it clean leaving pretty much a barren wasteland devoid of food. Other species move off too, and it takes a few days for catches to get back to some normality. Avoid these beaches for a few tides to let the natural stock of other species build up again. TIPS AND TRICKS Changing to a Mustad 3261 Aberdeen, or Kamasan equivalent in size 2 still accounts for the whiting, but hooks of this type have the strength to land double figure cod if played correctly. TACKLE RECOVERY TACTICS
If you're casting directly in to rough ground, don't fully tighten your line to the lead to pull the rod tip over for bite detection. This only drags the lead tight in to any cracks between the rocks jamming it tight. Leave the line just slightly slack. Fish on rough ground are not shy biters and will hit and take a bait hard taking up any slack in the line and pulling hard on the rod tip. Use pulley rigs as your main choice. Pulley rigs, as the name suggest, have the main rig body line sliding through the eye of a swivel. When a fish takes the bait and swims away it pulls the hook and rig line through the swivel attached to the leader and actually lifts the lead up and out of snags when fishing in deep water. The lead travels as far as the swivel with the length of the trace and rig running down to the fish keeping the lead well clear of any snags while the fish is fought. Breakaway Lead Lifts are an essential part of my tackle box and help me reduce losses of both tackle and fish. These can be clipped above a lead and act like a plane wing lifting the weight of the lead quickly off the seabed making it rise in the water where it planes back towards you at speed. Lead Lifts are especially useful when you're fishing long range but have rough ground between you and the sand you aim to fish on. There are also some makes of lead that have lifting vanes moulded in to their shape. These also lift off the seabed quickly and plane to the surface, but will still snag if cast directly in to rough ground. Use plastic bait clips, or clips made from copper wire. These bend when snagged and will mostly pull free under pressure. Clips made from stainless wire in heavy gauges will not bend out easily and can cost you breakages. Also use hooks that will bend out under extreme line pressure. Northeast anglers favour Mustad Viking 79510 hooks in size 2/0 to 6/0 for cod for this reason. |
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