ALL POWERED UP
Many anglers convert headlights from expensive AA type batteries to run on 6V sealed rechargeable lead-acid batteries for greater power output and longer life. The most common of these are the Yuasa, which are used for internal security alarm systems and the like and relatively cheap to buy. Several ready-to-use headlights are now supplied with this type of sealed battery too. Problem is you need to charge the batteries correctly to get full use and full power from them and I've found you get varied advice from many battery suppliers as to how best to keep the battery in tip top condition.

If you've bought a ready made unit, then you need only follow the supplied instructions, but many anglers still choose the cheaper DIY option. I've found that the best way to get a long life and full power from these batteries is to run them fairly close to full drain at least once a month, much like a mobile phone, then recharge them fully using a slow trickle charge.

Powerful lights a must for dangerous marks

Years ago an electrician friend suggested I recharge my sealed batteries via a universal mains adaptor with a choice of output rates, plus pass the power through a voltage regulator to even out the charge. This system has been in use for about ten years now and has given me no problems whatsoever. You can buy both products at good electrical stores like Maplins. One battery lasted over six years of continual usage before it showed signs of not fully charging.

If you fast charge it the battery cells seem to die quicker. Also if you continually recharge after little use, say after short one to two hour trips, the battery can get a discharge memory level after time and when you need power for longer on a full night trip you find the battery weakens quickly once it reaches this memory marker within the cells. That's why you need to have that once a month near complete drain.

Something else I did was to fit a fuse between the battery and the light. Given the continual movement of the wires when working and casting, plus the wet conditions fishing creates, the possibilities of a short out are high. The fuse keeps things safe.

If you choose this cheaper option and convert a basic headlamp, then bear all this in mind and you'll get better value for money and more reliability.

TIPS AND TRICKS
It's not easy threading braided line through a hollow shore or boat boom, as it's so soft and nowhere near as stiff as mono, but there is an easy way.

If you partially thread the braid up the boom as far as it will go, then suck on the end of the boom as if you're sucking Coke through a straw the braid will be pulled up the boom tube and out the end. Make sure you leave a good foot or more of slack braid to be drawn up the boom tube.

The same trick works with bait elastic when the end falls back through the hole in the lid. If there is plenty of slack thread, suck on the hole and the end of the elastic will pull back through the hole saving all the fiddly threading.

ARTIFICIAL EELS FOR OFFSHORE COD TACTICS

Worms for cod

Cod are natural predators and really go for artificial eels or jellyworms fished on flying collar rigs, but you need to present the eels to the fish differently than you do when pollack fishing.

The flying collar rig is built the same though, using a boom with around 12-feet of 25lb mono to a good strong hook like a Mustad Viking 6/0 or Varivas Big Mouth.

Cod are basically bottom feeders rarely moving more than a few feet up in the water. The usual drop down and instant retrieve used for pollack will miss the bulk of the cod. To target cod, release the tackle to the seabed. When you feel it touch bottom, start releasing line freely off the reel. Let about 30-yards out, in a faster tide run release up to 50-yards.

After releasing this line, flip the reel in to gear and let the line come tight. This is the crucial bit. Only let the line tighten, but don't start retrieving. Let the eel rise up off the bottom at a shallow angle using only the power of the boats drift and travel for about 20-yards before slowly starting to retrieve. The cod will hit the lure as it runs at a shallow rising angle just above the seabed. If you retrieve too early you'll lift the eel at too sharp an angle and raise the eel out of the take zone to quickly

This method is deadly over rough reef ground and will take bonus ling and even gurnards too, but it's also effective when working tight in to wrecks and around scattered debris away from the main wreckage. I use jellyworms 6 to 8-inch in size in black with orange or yellow coloured tails and find them excellent, plus they're cheaper to lose at about 10p each. Pink eels can be excellent, but seem scarce in the shops. If you see some, buy all you can afford, as they are deadly for the bigger cod.