LOOSING LINE TWIST
The way you load new line on to your reels, if done incorrectly, can dramatically increase line twist and memory, yet this supposedly simple task that so many anglers pay little attention to, is vitally important.

You need to make sure that the line comes off the spool the same way it went on. Line is loaded on to spools wheel fashion, the line being added to the spool in a direct line as the spool vertically rotates. The common mistake is to take line off by putting the spool on the floor and pulling line over the spool lip. This creates a circular motion as the line comes off the spool adding massive lint twist and is a big mistake, especially when loading fixed spool reels.

You also want the new line to bed down on to the reel spool in a nice neat and compact shape. This is best achieved with the new line wet and immersed in water to add line pressure as the spool turns to control the line, and also give the line dampness which helps it bed down properly and loose some of its initial springiness.

You can just have the spool in a bowl of water or the sink if you need to reload and have minimal facilities while fishing away, or at home fill a bucket with water and have a length of wooden dowel cut to fit the inside diameter of the bucket about halfway down. The dowel goes through the middle of the line spool, and is then submersed in the bucket. The spool turns freely under water as you load the reel, but the line leaves the spool in a much more controlled fashion and beds down neatly. I do this for loading both fixed spools and multipliers, though the fixed spool reels benefit the most from loading this way with improved casting distance and line control.

Inevitably fixed spool reels will introduce line twist due to their cast and retrieve action. When line twist gets really bad, you can get the worst twist out by nipping down to your local playing fields when its quiet, running off all the line on the reel, and retrieving it across wet grass. Alternatively stand on an estuary bridge, release all the line out in to the tide current and then retrieve. This again gets the twist out of the line, even though you get some weird looks from passers by.

Boat anglers using multipliers also get line twist from time to time, especially when trolling rubber eels and lures. At the end of the day, take the lure and any links off, set the boat underway at 5-knots or so, release the upper half of the line off the reel, leave it for a few minutes, then retrieve it all back. The water tension will take the twist out of the line and you’re ready for the next trip.

There are devices that fix on to your rod or on a stand that will hold the spool as you load a reel, but you ideally need that dampness to get the best when loading line and to fully minimise any effect of line twist and memory. I’ve found nothing better than the bucket of water.

TIPS AND TRICKS
Umbrellas on a beach in windy weather are a bloomin’ nightmare, but if you’re match fishing or out for a prolonged pleasure fishing session, then a brolly as a main camp can make all the difference. I’ve found mesh onion bags and plastic bags as used by many others a waste of time, and piling shingle on the edges of the brolly causes damage, but a few years ago I came across a fool proof way of securing the brolly in shingle.

You need a gallon sized plastic bucket and drill a hole in the base to take a lanyard rope. Knot one end of the lanyard with a couple of big granny knots that can’t come undone. Pass the free end through the hole in the bucket. Now dig a hole with your hands in the shingle, put the bucket in the hole and fill it with shingle burying it in the process. Attach the lanyard to your brolly ring.

The brolly may blow over in extreme conditions, but it won’t take off down the beach or out to sea resulting in a potentially expensive loss.

MACKEREL ON THE FLY TACTICS
The fly rod is a perfect way to target mackerel from the shore and the big tides during August and early September bring the shoals within casting range.

You need a 7 to 9-weight rod with both a weight-forward taper slow sinking intermediate line. Use a simple straight 8-foot leader from 10lb clear mono and choose any fly with silver, white and blue in tied on a size 2 hook, and you’re in business.

The best marks are beaches with a shingle backing that over high water give a depth of at least 8-feet, otherwise look to the deeper rock ledges. Pick the highest evening tides of the cycle and preferably flat calm, sticky hot weather with thunder in the air. These are the very best conditions for bring the mackerel in right to the shore line. Time your fishing to the two hours before high tide and you might get about an hour after on the ebb until the fish disappear.

Watch the water for the brit boiling on the surface as the mackerel attack and expect the mackerel to work down the beach with the tide direction. Try to cast directly in to the surface breaking activity and immediately strip back with a fast short sharp jerky action. When you feel the mackerel hit the fly strike to set the hook as fast as you can. If the fish hit between pulls you’ll miss a good percentage, but pretty much always hook the ones that hit as you strip the fly forwards.

Don’t make the mistake of trying to follow the shoal. In the described conditions the mackerel will be working the beach constantly. Wait a few minutes and the next shoal will be working your way.

Scad and garfish also work with the mackerel shoals, even school bass, so expect a mixed variety of fish, though a faster sinking high density line is the best bet for the bass working deep under the mackerel.