View Full Version : DIY Servicing
2 and 4 stroke - Applicable for overwintering \Servicing
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Run the engine on muffs for at least 5 mins to clean out salt and to warm it up. Have a look at the flow from the 'pee' pipe, if it is dribbling either you have salt deposits blocking the engine waterways or you need a new water pump impeller.
Remove the plugs and squirt in some fogging oil ( Quicksilver Winterising is one ), turn engine over to distribute oil and replace the plugs. When you fire up next time run engine until it runs clean and then replace plugs. The old ones are then spares. These plugs are known to be good whereas a new plug from the box could be faulty.
Remove top and bottom slotted screws on gearbox bullett. Drain gearbox oil, if it is clear you are OK, if it is milky get help. Replace by filling from the bottom hole and when it comes out of the top hole it is full. Get the bottom pug in quickly followed by the top.
At the bottom of each carb there is a brass nut, undo it 1/2 turn and fuel will come out. Drain all the fuel from each carb starting at the top. Nip the nuts up afterwards.
Take off the prop and grease the splines, check you havn't got anything round the shaft, bit of line trapped there can work under the gearbox oil seal and cause a world of grief.
Grease all points on the engine with a grease gun filled with a lime based grease and give the steering tube a squirt with Wurth spray grease when fully extended. Store in the fully retracted position to stop water ingress into the inner tube. Inside the cable is all mild steel.
Check the anodes on the engine, any that are 50% gone should be replaced.
Give the engine an all over squirt with Duck oil, or WD at a pinch. A squirt of Wurth on all the moving linkages is worth while
4 stroke only,
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Drop the engine oil and remove the oil filter, replace filter and top up with fresh oil. Use the oil recomended by the mnufacturer, it is dearer than normal 4 stroke oil but contains additional addatives for marine use. It is a once a year cost so not worth saving a few bob IMHO.
General
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Give the outside a good wash down and dry, touch in any paint chips and when all dry give the exterior a coat of wax polish. Leave this on without polishing to protect the paintwork from the weather. A wash over and polish next time you use it will bring it up to spec.
Take the battery out of the boat and stand on plenty of newspaper in a shed, trickle charge once a month.
Top up your fuel tanks to the top and close the breathers to stop water ingress and condensation. OR empty them completely and store upside down with the caps removed. Check the hoses and bulbs or signs of cracking, perishing. Check the fittings at the ends of the fuel lines, especially the 'O'ring seals. any damage replace them.
Take all the removable electrics off the boat, wrap in a towel and hide at the back of the airing cupboard, it will do them good. All the electrical connections will benefit from a dab of vaseline. Have a look at the end of the ariel co ax cable that goes into the VHF, if it is black the conducter is corroded. Cut it back to fresh metal and remake the connection. It is surprising how many VHF faults are down to this.
Check your flares are still in date and any auto inflate life jackets are in good nick. Check the CO2 cannisters are tight, they tend to work loose with the engine vibes.
Take the rope off your boat and give it a wash in warm water and washing powder, it picks up loads of sand and this causes wear inside the rope. Rinse in plenty of cold water and coil, hang it in a shed out of direct sunlight to dry. Check all the shackles on the anchor gear are nipped up and not rusty.
Wash the trailer with warm soapy water to get rid of salt, Check the wheel bearings, rock the tyres side to side any play replace the bearings. While the trailer is jacked up spin the wheels, any graunching, replce the bearings. Take the bearings out clean them and check, if any signs of rust at all, replace and regrease. Check the tyres for damage and if you are leaving the boat for any length of time jack up and block off, this gives the tyres/ suspension a rest and stops flats forming on tyres. Grease the tow hitch and linkages. Any signs of rust on the trailer metalwork will benift from a wire brushing and a coat of a Zink rich primer followed by a cold galvanising paint. The trailer rollers should be checked for flats and the pivot pins dosed with Wurth spray grease.
All I can think of but I am sure I have missed plenty, someone will fill in the blanks
If you get stuck on anything shout.
Sorry for the length of the post
sciroccoGTX
15-07-2005, 23:50
Ive recently bought an old outboard for an auxiliary. It is an Evinrude Litetwin (americanised!) 3HP, 1966.
I found a decent site on how to service the above and thought it may be useful for others with similar motors or to maybe get some pointers from.....
http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/Evinrude%203%20HP%20Lightwin%20Outboard%20Boat%20M otor/Evinrude%20Johnson%203%20HP%201952-1967%20Tune-Up%20Procedure.htm
If you look at the procedures for the ignition system, carb etc it may help
Shropfisher
09-08-2005, 17:18
Great Info Chris, one question ref fuel tanks, my new boat has an integral tank, and I have been given conflicting advise for winter storage, some say fill em up and drop a few addative tabs in, others say drain them, not always the easiest thing to do, on the last trip of the season, I don't want to run out, and the weather will dictate what is the last trip not me. Whats your opinion ?
I have a built in tank and I store mine full and with the breather pipe stop ended, no problems so far at the start of the new season.
raymondo
17-09-2005, 20:20
i would like to take a moment to recomend ZINCSMART WWW.ZINCSMART.COM i ordered a new anode yesterday afternoon and it arrived this morning £10.50 inc vat and post(which was charged as per stamps used) and there was no need to pay up front the invoice arrived with the anode
raymondo
17-09-2005, 20:25
just a quick question about filling the gearbox, you suggest filling from the bottomnot the topis this right? i've always drained from the bottom filled from the top. doesn't filling from the botton result in underfilling? doesn't the oil run down your arm while you put the bottom plug in?
the bronra
19-09-2005, 12:45
Great post from chris P and very timely, thanks! :)
Raymondo, if you fill from the top you can get an air lock in there. It is messy but if you are quick the oil loss is minimal and you can top it off via the top plug.
If you want a good site to help sort engines out try Iboats.com-link direct to their forum here. http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi
There's marine engineers on there that rebuild anything and everything and they are extremely helpful.
Re-filling the gearbox-do it from the bottom and when it overflows put the top screw in. Gear lube is thick enough you lose very little while you put the bottom screw in.
Good post Chris, :clap3:
I was going to take it in to get serviced, but now I think I'll give it a go myself. I can manage old landrovers and chainsaws so might manage my 2 stroke force 75 hp.
Cheers
Martin.
one little thing about filling gearbox fill from bottom hole till it comes out of top hole while you still have the oil filler in bottom hole put top screw in first then the bottom this stops the oil running out the bottom while you try and get the drain screw back in
One thing on putting oil in the gearbox. On many engines if you get any air in it will expand and blow the seals when the thing warms up. Not a good idea. I think that's where the fill from the bottom comes in. I've done it on a honda which can have the problem by allowing it to run into the gearbox very very slowly, took nearly an hour. Watch you don't keep pumping at the oil bottle as you will get air bubbles in the oil. They will take ages to come out.
Another way to check for water ingress is to leave the drained oil in a jam jar or something. Any water will eventually settle out.
Honda and maybe others have a pressure check to check for seal wear. Just pump up the empty gear box up and see what pressure it leaks at.
John
arron-2103
14-07-2006, 22:42
T.L.C is the key
Important to fill from bottom will drive air out from vital parts while filling.
I replaced my mates gearbox he filled it from the top air stoped oil in one area of box 6 trips then grind crunch new box,GOOD POST LADS
Porby,
Suaimhneas
08-11-2006, 17:15
Good info guys.
FYI for changing gear oil I bought a hand pump and adaptor kit from johnson evinrude a few years ago which makes life really easy and no oil wastage. You need to initially buy a gallon can of the gear oil to start with which is bit pricy but you are going to use it over time anyway. All I have to do is drain the gear oil, screw the adaptor into the bottom hole and just pump the plunger until the oil trickles out the top. Just like using a liquid soap pump.
I can do make main and aux in no time and no mess.
gibberfish
22-12-2006, 18:33
2 and 4 stroke - Applicable for overwintering \Servicing
_____________________________________________
Run the engine on muffs for at least 5 mins to clean out salt and to warm it up. The RNLI advise against running an engine for more than 2 minutes on muffs. It can cause the engine to oil up and the plugs to foul. For long periods use a tank so that you get the correct exhaust back pressure. It will also give a truer idea of the health of your water pump.
A poor telltale output may not mean a sick pump. Could just be a bit of cack - I once removed some earwigs from an engine whos owner had replaced then refitted (twice) a water pump impeller when the old one was fine!
saltyjock
26-12-2006, 10:41
Good post
One thing I would add is to check all cables (especially remote steering and throttle cables). My 8hp yam snapped a throttle cable on the bench when I was flushing out after removing the bouat from yhe harbour in November.
allways fill outboard gearbox from the bottom. fill till oil just comes out of the top hole. remove the pump or tube then screw in the plug dont over fill. this will cause the oil seals to leak when the oil gets hot and expands
Maybe it would be a good idea for people to post here any good online stores to buy outboard parts and service consumables such as oil and filters etc. I am about to start collecting the stuff I need for the annual service and I am relying on google to look after me but some references would be useful.
Ryan
one more thing. put some emulsifying oil in the water you run the engine in this will coat the water ways and help stop corrosion. if you use muffs, put it in a barrel and run a siphon hose to the muffs. if the barrel is high enough and you dont rev the engine you will get enough water through. make sure you add the water to the oil . do it the other way and it wont mix. emulsifying oil is used on lathes and other machine cutting tools
Rajabatis
16-01-2007, 21:54
one more thing. put some emulsifying oil in the water you run the engine in this will coat the water ways and help stop corrosion. if you use muffs, put it in a barrel and run a siphon hose to the muffs. if the barrel is high enough and you dont rev the engine you will get enough water through. make sure you add the water to the oil . do it the other way and it wont mix. emulsifying oil is used on lathes and other machine cutting tools
Alana sound a good idea but can't really see that making any lasting difference on inhibiting corrosion.
The oil/water emulsion will just wash away first time it comes in contact with water. Especially with water flowing rapidly and diluting any residue left behind after your flushing. Corrosion is prevented by creating a barrier from the elements attacking it. This oil won't do that.
That type of oil is as a cooling lubricant mixed with water for cutting tools, as you say.
I use it on my lathe and it does not coat the metel being cut or the tool used. It just washes away. Which is the whole point of it, to lubricate the cutting tool and remove heat generated by the cutting process.
all i can say is i use it ,and when i have had to get into a motor that it has been used in, the waterways are coated in a oily residue
i should have made it clear. that i use it during the laying up flushing .sorry
Rajabatis
16-01-2007, 23:40
i should have made it clear. that i use it during the laying up flushing .sorry
Maybe so but water/moisture just dilutes it...........if it doesn't keep water at bay. What's the point?
Maybe so but water/moisture just dilutes it...........if it doesn't keep water at bay. What's the point?
I wonder if it doesn't stop the water it's diluted with absorbing oxygen. That'd stop corrosion for a while.
Rajabatis
17-01-2007, 01:22
I wonder if it doesn't stop the water it's diluted with absorbing oxygen. That'd stop corrosion for a while.
Hi Yes but does it stop oxygen absorbtion? Not sure what miracle process you think is happening with this water soluble oil? You can check out the facts about corrosien/oxidisation from many sources. No need to wonder.
If you are happy doing that oil thing keep on doing it.
You can try a simple test though. Get a peice of bare steel. Coat it in that oil and leave it outside in an exposed place for a week. I would bet money on it it being rusty after that small amount of exposure.
looks like i have been wasting my time useing that oil. ah well not the first time iv`e been wrong, and i know it wont be the last. one good thing has come out of it.you can learn things on this web site
Rajabatis
17-01-2007, 15:30
looks like i have been wasting my time useing that oil. ah well not the first time iv`e been wrong, and i know it wont be the last. one good thing has come out of it.you can learn things on this web site
Hi I have wasted ££££s on stuff before engaging brain. Remember the wonderfull claims made for WD40 when it came out I used it all the time with complete confidence. So did most folks. Then I did that bare metal test. Absolutely no use as a corrosion/oxidation protecter! Water displacer on electrical parts? Maybe.... but not to sure on that score either. Light oil when the solvents evaporate..yes! It does work as a release oil though, but so do lots of other commonly used products. White spirit with a touch of engine oil in it ace! So is petrol and oil. Diesel is good too! Try diesel on bare metal holds the rust back for a good long while, but it needs recoating to keep working and to build up a film.
I'm about to try that ridiculously expensive ACF-50 that claims things I can beleive, but at £12.00 or more a can. It had better be good!
by the way does anyone know if the stuff called SEA CREEP/SEA FOAM is available in the uk. the yanks seem to swear by it
Rajabatis
17-01-2007, 22:30
by the way does anyone know if the stuff called SEA CREEP/SEA FOAM is available in the uk. the yanks seem to swear by it
By the sounds of the manufactures blurb it will solve 3 world hunger problems too!
http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreepTech.htm
by the way does anyone know if the stuff called SEA CREEP/SEA FOAM is available in the uk. the yanks seem to swear by it
It's the same as Redex but with added yankee bull*hit.
Has anyone experience of a product named SALT-X.
I have treated the outside surfaces of my engine with it but not yet an engine flush.
If you can believe the sale blurb it might be good.:unsure:
Rajabatis
05-04-2007, 13:06
Has anyone experience of a product named SALT-X.
I have treated the outside surfaces of my engine with it but not yet an engine flush.
If you can believe the sale blurb it might be good.:unsure:
Hi I tried it on some salt encrusted and corroded rope guides on my boat. Made no difference. I think it might work if the items were soaked in it. I wire brushed all the parts to get them as clean as possible. Then put waxoyl on them. Not pretty but better than anything else I have tried to stop corrosian.
As an example of how good that stuff is. I do a bit of cycling. And keep a bike for summer and one for the nast salty winter roads. All the hubs/cranks and gears are treated with waxoyl on the winter one. I put a new back wheel on the winter bike and forgot to treat the anodised alloy hub. It is now useless and has turned into a greyish powder. Parts of it have just dissolved. The waxed parts are still all in good condition.
My engine is lathered in it too and the trailer. All the bolts and stuff below the waterline. I spray it clean with the hose when I get back home. The salt comes off, but the wax coating stays put.
Dave.
I have had a few trips in the boat and have been using Salt-X to finish off washing the engine and have been running 5 litres of the solution through at the end of an engine flush.
No way to know how it works in the cooling system of the engine but it removes dried on salt from the exterior completely - and further deposits seem to wipe off easily afterwards.
For the little it costs to try this it gives me some satisfaction that I am doing something to stop salt buildup in the cooling system.
I have had a couple of old auxiliary engines completely choked with salt in the past and it's worth the effort to avoid it in a large(expensive) main engine.
The company that sells Salt-X also sell PHEW-GO - does what it says. Spray it on smelly clothing, seats etc and it really does work.:clap3:
Found this site which should prove useful for fault finding and diagnosis on outboards:
http://www.brokeboats.com/index.html
Good post
One thing I would add is to check all cables (especially remote steering and throttle cables). My 8hp yam snapped a throttle cable on the bench when I was flushing out after removing the bouat from yhe harbour in November.
As steering rod stiffness has cropped up a few times in recent posts, It might be worth doing a bit of preventitive maintainence there to prevent problems.
It was ChrisP I think? That originally posted this good tip and I now do the following procedure regularly:
This is assuming you don't have a grease nipple fitted on your steering ferrule to give a squirt with the grease gun now and again!
Turn the wheel and fully extend the rod on full lock and grease the rod liberally. Retract the rod on opposite full lock to get the grease in to the female tube. Then do the whole process over again a few times.
If you are leaving the boat for any length of time slap a big dollop round where the rod exits to prevent moisure getting in over a period of time. Don't forget to grease the linkage to the motor as well while you are in the area.
Your steering will then remain sound and ready for use without any worries if you follow the above procedure.
Prevention is better than cure as they say.:) Chris also mentioned waxing your motor for storage and leaving it unpolished. Waxoyl as already mentioned works even better. Just brush or spray it on and it it soaks in and when dry leaves a thick wax waterproof coating.
Being that time of the year again:
For anybody who has not heard of or tried it, I can thoroughly recommend trying out ACF 50 all over your engine and electrics.
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf50.htm
Been using it now on my boat engines and my motorcycle for the last 3 years and it really does work.
You can actually spray it on an exhaust where it smokes a bit at first but then still leaves a protective film barrier.
Quite expensive, but worth it IMO. Plenty about on a well known auction site.
thanks for that info, i will have a go myself
and save a few beer tokens!
scootb73
03-06-2008, 14:55
Luckily my uncle is a marine engineer,I think I'll get him over to service my johnson next time he gets back(hopefully get the oil free ;) )
wreckferret
16-11-2008, 13:36
Maybe it would be a good idea for people to post here any good online stores to buy outboard parts and service consumables such as oil and filters etc. I am about to start collecting the stuff I need for the annual service and I am relying on google to look after me but some references would be useful.
Ryan
http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/OSU005
Hi I tried it on some salt encrusted and corroded rope guides on my boat. Made no difference. I think it might work if the items were soaked in it. I wire brushed all the parts to get them as clean as possible. Then put waxoyl on them. Not pretty but better than anything else I have tried to stop corrosian.
As an example of how good that stuff is. I do a bit of cycling. And keep a bike for summer and one for the nast salty winter roads. All the hubs/cranks and gears are treated with waxoyl on the winter one. I put a new back wheel on the winter bike and forgot to treat the anodised alloy hub. It is now useless and has turned into a greyish powder. Parts of it have just dissolved. The waxed parts are still all in good condition.
My engine is lathered in it too and the trailer. All the bolts and stuff below the waterline. I spray it clean with the hose when I get back home. The salt comes off, but the wax coating stays put.
Dave. we use the wax to cover machines at work once they have been washed off and they will sit outside for a year or more till we next use them . i had an older outboard with some one had tried to repaint around the gearbox so i rubbed it all down to the bear metal and then waxed it. i then used it nfor a whole year before i got rounf to painting it and it was as good as new . i recommend it to anyone
ddaddymurray
24-09-2009, 07:20
on my way to the chandlers now this thread should save me a few quid towards that windlass|
caelachiv
10-02-2010, 14:22
very helpfull , well done guys/girls. ive got 2 engines to look at and this has been very helpfull. cheer's
After reading this thread and watching a professional service my outboard this afternoon I will have absolutely NO PROBLEM servicing my own from now on! :) :)
How much beer money should I pay myself for labour? ;)
Phil Robertson
29-12-2010, 22:44
Just a thought on servicing boats for the winter, and relating to the stolen boats threads, If your boat is trailer mounted remove the wheels and store them securely elsewhere, leave the trailer on a pair of H*****ds axle stands, preferably at a lower height than it would be with the wheels on. Just make it awkward for the b*****ds. If you are into metal fabrication it is easy to make up a set of "winter wheels" stands that bolt onto the hub, weld on a cap or u shaped piece to prevent access to the hub cap and stub axle nut beneath.
steviecod
06-06-2011, 17:57
hi guys i have the above outboard,which i bought with boat in feb this year.After getting it in the water last friday,to my annoyance it runs fine on idle,but on engaging forward or reverse gear it eventually dies,unless i up the revs which is a bit annoying on mooring the boat.Hope some of you fine boaters may be able to help me.Im pretty new to this,so bear with me ,if i seem a bit thick.Cheers.
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