Fuzzey Windows

[KevD]

I have got a six year old warrior boat and the front windows have gone fuzzey i have tried Tcut & G3 and even brasso but they have a bad haze is there a compound that will work or should i just replace them any help gratfully received

[paid4]

Are they glass or perspex m8? If they're plastic then T-cut will destroy them as it works by taking a thin layer of paint off and will have caused thousands of tiny scratches. If they're glass they could be laminated and the hazing could be caused by the plastic inside the glass sandwich degrading. In either case I think replacing is the only answer - sorry

[tgimike]

I spoke to Warrier about this and was told they start to fade after about 3-4 years. They will then have to be replaced, the newer 165 has higher grade polycarbonate windows and should last longer. Glass is now being used in the new Pro Angler. Unfortuantely do not know the replacement cost, you will have to contact Warrior direct.

Mike

[Fish Magnet]

Warrior are sending me out a starboard front polycarbonate window for my 165, cost is 40 quid, this includes, window, sealant and bolts, but not postage. I guess the rest of the windows will be around this price.

Fish Magnet.

[Tony H]

I changed the windows on my boat about 3 years ago 4 polycarbonate windows on a gip Pilot total cost of materials 60 quid a not too difficult DIY project

[ChrisP]

Worth trying any manufacturers of glazing in your area. The small pieces you need for the windows are classed by many as offcuts and can be picked up for a pint or two. Set them on Sikaflex and Bolt in. Use a drill set on slow speed to drill a hole a couple of mm bigger than the bolt you are using to allow for different rates of expansion between the grp and poly.

If you hold the poly in place with a couple of bolts and mask inside and out you will get a nie clean line on the silicon. Use a penny washr undet the bolt head and nut to spread the loading.

[KevD]

Many thanks all for advice will replace with new perspex

[poppajoe]

I have got a six year old warrior boat and the front windows have gone fuzzey i have tried Tcut & G3 and even brasso but they have a bad haze is there a compound that will work or should i just replace them any help gratfully received

If your going to use plastic (polycarb) then go for PVC clear/tint or PETG clear then they will not fade.

I am in the business of plastic and can get them but it does cost, if you want a price for material let me know.

More expensive yes, but only need to fit once. Why worrior do not use this I don't know as most south coast commercial craft built by Vosper use these materials (I sell it too them) - but as I said it's probably a case of raising the boat cost too much?

But if cost is not your worry then go for it - incidentally my own boat is refitted with blue tint PVC

[Adam F]

Have a look over on our site at www.pbsbac.co.uk - use the search tool for 'window replacement' or Warrior windows and you will find a feature that a member posted last year when he replaced the windows on his 150.

Links are here; http://www.pbsbac.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=1205&hl=windows

and here: http://www.pbsbac.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=1194&hl=windows

Unfortunatly the site he had the details listed in step by step on is no longer, but you should find enough detail.

Mine need doing too - replacements from Warrior are about 150/180 ish I think, where as a DIY job would cost less than half that.

Adam

[Steve1972]

£180 would be quite a good price from Warrior, as i spend a good 3 hours from start to finish. i now use margard from GE which has a scratch resistant coating on it. and it does work.... before using this i used lexan, again from GE which is meant to be "bullet proof". i also know that some of my 2001/2002 boats are still ok apart from general use scratches.

[freddy]

One of my windows has a crack which is spreading outwards from the edge so i assume this is laminated glass as car screens do the same thing is that correct??
Mine are bolted in all around with a number of very small countersunk bolts.
If i need to replace these will i need to go back to the manufacturer? (Raider)

[blueskip]

Freddy is it in fact glass? or is it polycarboate? tap it with a coin if it 'tings" its glass, if it "thuds" its poly, & you can drill a tiny hole at the end of the crack to stop it running, then put a tiny drop of transparent mastic in it to stop it leaking.
If its glass & you want to swap it for polycarbonate, look on e-bay for "polycarbonate sheets" I have changed both windows in mine, for under 15 quid!
blueskip

[poppajoe]

One of my windows has a crack which is spreading outwards from the edge so i assume this is laminated glass as car screens do the same thing is that correct??
Mine are bolted in all around with a number of very small countersunk bolts.
If i need to replace these will i need to go back to the manufacturer? (Raider)

Bit of advice,
When using plastic never use countersink screw heads as it puts pressure on the mount and starts stress cracking - use standard cheese heads etc and try to leave the holes a little bigger, say 2m/m in diameter.
With plastic you will usually sea cracks appear from the fixing holes outwards.

When you have drilled the holes in the sheets, take the edge off the hole each side a little with a chamfering tool or a larger drill, this also helps prevent stress cracking starting.

Poppajoe

[freddy]

There is a metal frame around the edge and this is where the screws are countersunk. The glass is sandwiched between the frame and the cabin structure. Dont think i will mess with it until i really need to !

[Steve1972]

hi freddy,

can you post a picture of the damaged area?

[oby]

what sort of thickness of polycarbonate should you use for bolt on windows as im in the process of changing mine...many thanks

[Steve1972]

In the past, when i built the Explorer and on the Mk1 Endeavour, i used 5mm Lexan (we had a 6mm recess). On the Mk2 i had been using 3mm Lexan. I now use 4mm Margard (scratch resistant) and its the bogs dollocks, apart from being very expensive.

[Adam F]

Steve,

I am thinking of using Margard as I have found a very competitive source who sells of cuts. Do you use tinted? All I can find is clear, and am struggling for a reasonable supplier of tinted - where do you source yours?

Thanks

[Steve1972]

I use Vink Plastics. If am not mistaken, the Margard is only available in 4 and 6mm as a replacement for 4 and 6mm glass. Its also available in bronze tint which i think is the same as whats in the Warriors.

http://www.vinkplastics.co.uk/Default.aspx

[blueskip]

Years ago I took a female angler out with me to do some "night fishing", we ended up with "steamy windows" by the morning if that's any help!
blueskip

[caster]

Years ago I took a female angler out with me to do some "night fishing", we ended up with "steamy windows" by the morning if that's any help!
blueskip

Come on now skip, you really must post piccies with your reports, did you catch anything?:blink:

[poppajoe]

Steve,

I am thinking of using Margard as I have found a very competitive source who sells of cuts. Do you use tinted? All I can find is clear, and am struggling for a reasonable supplier of tinted - where do you source yours?

Thanks

Tinted is fine and looks good but is pretty useless if you are looking through them at night?

[Dave.S]

Come on now skip, you really must post piccies with your reports, did you catch anything?:blink:

Only some crabs! :yucky:

Dave
:giveup:

[blueskip]

No I didn't catch anything, but without a great deal of prior knowledge I reckon I was lucky! Saying that, she certainly hadn't had much of a hiding with the "ugly stick", she scrubbed up quite nicely at the presentation evening a month later!
blueskip

[KevD]

have just sorted the three front windows out on boat i was advised by a plastic manufacture heres the method buff with electric buffer like car body shops use .
with Autosol metal polish from car spares shop cost me £3.95 windows are know clear as new hope this helps anybody with same problem