Multis - Basic Advice Needed

[Rod]

I now have a non-mag multi but have only ever used FS. I dont want my 1st cast to be the mother of all BNs - do I cast with the brake on all the time? or do I use reel in free-spool mode and click brake on at end of cast? The former seems safer but I dont want to shag the braking mechanism if this is an incorrect technique.

Apologies for numpty question, but if you dont ask.........
Rod

[inford]

what reel is it

[Rod]

what reel is it

its a Daiwa Millionaire Proteus (300), on a bass rod.
Thanks
Rod

[inford]

make sure the brake blocks are in and dont over fill around 3/4 full would be ok and use a good iol in the bearings, also try to make the cast smooth , if you are casting in daylight just watch your weight if theres a level wind try to make the leader knot small

[Rod]

make sure the brake blocks are in and dont over fill around 3/4 full would be ok and use a good iol in the bearings, also try to make the cast smooth , if you are casting in daylight just watch your weight if theres a level wind try to make the leader knot small

Thanks inford, useful advice - but what I'm kean to know is do you cast with the brake on or do you cast in free-spool and apply brake at the end of the cast?

[kieran A.K.A bassboy]

when you are ready to cast put the reel into freespool then as you cast watch the lead and as the lead is about to hit the ground break the spool with your thumb and this should avoid a birdsnest and when you do your first few casts dont try to cast to far and just cast nice and smoothly hope this helps and good luck casting..................................BaSsBoY

[slimboy]

why dont you try a little practise at one of the casting clubs they will give you all the help you need.

[DJMCJERICO]

And don't put your thumb on the line to hard to late, or you will end up with a birds-nest with your hand in the middle!


Not that I've ever done that you understand :unsure:

[wilson17]

I now have a non-mag multi but have only ever used FS. I dont want my 1st cast to be the mother of all BNs - do I cast with the brake on all the time? or do I use reel in free-spool mode and click brake on at end of cast? The former seems safer but I dont want to shag the braking mechanism if this is an incorrect technique.

Apologies for numpty question, but if you dont ask.........
Rod

You have many mother of bird nests to get threw rod , but as others have said dont try to hard to soon and it will happen - good luck .:boat: :)

[Timtu]

When casting with a multiplier you always want something to slow the spool down during the cast otherwise you will just keep getting spool overrun all of the time and that means the dreaded birds nest and crack off, when learning to cast with a multiplier its always a good idea to have the brakes set to quite high (that means on fairly hard) but not that hard that it stops the cast going past say 40 metres, the brakes remember are to stop the spool from overrunning during the cast, when or just before the lead weight hits the ground or water its up to you to stop the spool with your thumb to again stop it from overrunning. Go over to a field and start with just gentle casting and after a while you will get the confidence to start loosening the brakes a little and putting more power into the cast, but be prepared for at least one or two bird nests when you are learning, its all in the game though:) .

[Timtu]

Forgot to mention, once you have set your brakes to the correct tension just leave them alone, don't try and adjust them in mid cast cuz thats asking for trouble and does not achieve anything apart from a birds nest, use your thumb to stop the spool at the end of the cast a split second before the weight lands but apply very gentle pressure towards the end of the cast to take some speed out of the spool, all in one smooth action if you know what i mean.

[Ravelling Tangler]

ROD (good name there !)
if need be we can point to articles covering this by (e.g.) Neil MacKellow or John Holden.

but here's a quick summary of braking (for casting) for multiplier reels:

1) the star drag (just under the handle) is not for casting - it's for playing fish
2) the end-tension (knob that tightens onto the end of the spool spindle, positioned in the centre of either or both ends of the reel) is not for distance casting (only for casting lures short distances) - leave it set so you can just feel the spool move side to side if you hold it between thumb and finger and joggle it. If you set it tight when distance casting, the side pressure can damage ball bearings
3) line level helps - if you are a beginner do NOT fill the reel right up (if tournament casting and willing to put up with BNs for a few extra feet you can overfill it)
4) line thickness makes a big difference - as thin as 0.25mm diameter will get you maximum range but more BNs; 0.45mm or even 0.5mm will make BNs very rare but cut your distance a lot
5) thick oil brakes it well ("Rocket fuel" is produced in red and yellow labels - go for the thicker for normal fishing and for learning)
6) magnetic brakes are good for the high-speed (early-middle) bit of the cast
7) cetrifugal brakes (fibre or plastic brake blocks) are good for the very early (highest speed) bit of the cast and keep giving some braking throughout the rest of it
8) a thumb pressed lightly against the metal spool (not on the line) is good for stopping overruns as the lead touches down; it takes a bit of learned skill to be able to thumb-brake the cast if it is showing signs of "fluffing up" (earlysign of a BN happening) earlier on.
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If the leader knot is not very slim, it may hit the levelwind or a rod ring and cause a jerk which leads to a BN :- when starting, it is worth using a tapered leader so the knot is as small as possible

[Rod]

Thanks guys - great advice, 30 mins practice until the first major BN so better than I had feared. Also the rod seems more balanced and casting action more natural with a multi compared to FS. Thanks again.
Rod