disgorgers,t bars

[blanketyblank01]

can anybody tell me if t bars are better for unhooking a deeply hooked fish.and what to do if the hook cant be gotten out.

[wilba]

can anybody tell me if t bars are better for unhooking a deeply hooked fish.and what to do if the hook cant be gotten out.


when the fish is deeply hooked i dont try and remove, i just cut the line as close to hook as possable:)

[moonshiners]

I find the best method (for removing) is surgical style forceps. long, narrow ones.

But if it's real deep sometimes it's better to do as above.

[Ajohn]

A hook that's left in the fish will rot out in a couple of days providing it isn't a stainless one. It's best not to buy stainless hooks.
On disgorgers I would imagine that the dumb bell shaped ones would be best for a deeply hooked fish. All in all it's best to leave the hook in if it can't be got out by shaking it around a bit to free the barb and then slipping it out. Forceps can be used to help grasp the hook but I prefer a small set of long nosed electronics type pliers. These are much finer than the electricians types that are readily available.

John

[wilba]

Don't believe everything you hear from Rexy ... "Hook will be gone in 24 hours or so ...".




how about a opinion with out trying to cause unrest:g:

[Why Worry Angling Charters]

how about a opinion with out trying to cause unrest:g:

Certain people on here are''experts'' mate and find that totally inpossible :uhuh:
Best just to ignore them...Gives them the hump.

Ron

[wilba]

Certain people on here are''experts'' mate and find that totally inpossible :uhuh:
Best just to ignore them...Gives them the hump.

Ron

:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

[blanketyblank01]

yes i always thought it better for the fish to remove it but somrtimes i have no choice but am gonna get a t bar thinner disgorgers and a phd lol i think the best thing is to try and strike as soon as a bite is seen

cheers all

[Norrie]

Hiya BB...Welcome to the forum....:), Re the Deep Hooking...I usually now only use barbless hooks for my fishing, .. to make them barbless, just crush the barbs down with pliers.......then, if you do happen to get a deep hooked fish, (which can happen to anyone) they are simplicity itself to remove.... :)

[smiley73]

Don't believe everything you hear from Rexy ... "Hook will be gone in 24 hours or so ...".

I did a series of controlled experiments on a selection of common beach hooks (blued, bronzed, nickel plated. stainless, tinned, etc) for one of the mags.

I used sea water; distilled water and dilute acid (2M like stomach juices). All kept at a steady 18 deg C (warm for the sea).

There was only 'flaking' after 4 days on the bronze and nickel plated. Most of the others were intact.
After 7 days, flaking was only slightly more noticeable on bronzed and tinned.

It was fully three weeks before you could remove any of the hooks in a crumbly, corroded state. Needless to say, corrosion was most pronounced in the acid solution, but it's unlikely that deep hooked fish means the hooks would be exposed to this concentration of acid.

It opened my eyes to the need to remove hooks if at all possible. The 'killer' area is damage to the gills of the fish. Some fish may well survive with the hook embedded in fleshy parts of the mouth and throat.

Over to you Doctor .....

Ada

unrest? i thought it was a well written piece and common sense really, the damaged flesh will rot before the hook, hopefully dislodging. but there you go....

i ran a simlar thread on tackle questions and there is a link if you want a nose.

bought the gemini t-bar (disgorger really) and it looks just the job! yet to try it on fish but it works really well messing around with traces to get the hang of it... a two min job.

h.t.h, al

http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66063&page=2&highlight=disgorger

[Ravelling Tangler]

:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

ah but you can wind the "experts" up no-end by telling newcomers as fact ideas which the "experts" think are unproven and even not-thought-about, just handed on and on.

http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/showthread.php?p=640081#post640081

If you like "trolling" for people who have tested things or checked up with other organisations, it is easy to get a "bite" ! :giveup:

[ChrisP]

Just a thought I have had and not meant in any way to be inflamatory.

If you work with steel and get a bit of mild under your skin it rusts and goes manky, the area is I presume affected by the byproducts of the steel corroding. If on the other hand you get a bit of good quality stainless you don't notice it until you catch it on something and it jabs you.

I was wondering if a stainless hook would cause less infection if left in a fish than a mild steel hook and would the hook reguardless of material eventually work it's way out of the flesh. Do mild steel hooks when they corrode cause infection in the flesh of the fish?

Has anyone ever seen or done a comparrison of stainless against mild steel, everything I have ever read has solely been concerned with 'rustable' hooks with the absolute advice never to use stainless.

(I don't use stainless by the way)

[Why Worry Angling Charters]

Just a thought I have had and not meant in any way to be inflamatory.

If you work with steel and get a bit of mild under your skin it rusts and goes manky, the area is I presume affected by the byproducts of the steel corroding. If on the other hand you get a bit of good quality stainless you don't notice it until you catch it on something and it jabs you.

I was wondering if a stainless hook would cause less infection if left in a fish than a mild steel hook and would the hook reguardless of material eventually work it's way out of the flesh. Do mild steel hooks when they corrode cause infection in the flesh of the fish?

Has anyone ever seen or done a comparrison of stainless against mild steel, everything I have ever read has solely been concerned with 'rustable' hooks with the absolute advice never to use stainless.

(I don't use stainless by the way)

Now that has thrown a spanner in the works!...Makes you think that post chris.

Ron

[RadioKaos]

Certain people on here are''experts'' mate and find that totally inpossible :uhuh:
Best just to ignore them...Gives them the hump.

Ron

And some other people post a reply just to get back at someone, If you got nothing creative to say then say nothing at all .
as the song goes,

"Ron says it best, when he says nothing at all."

[Ravelling Tangler]

I'll see if I can find a link to a 'proper' comparison ( I think - from memory - that there has not been a carefully formulated study that would be accepted by 'the scientific community' though there have been some rough and ready comparisons)

I'm pretty sure there was a test on cadmium-plated hooks which showed they really did cause some illness in the fish....but again I don't think it was a comparative study with a control group. Or 'scientifically designed'.

Just to throw a smaller spanner in the works, a Conger I gutted about 20 years ago had 7 or 8 hooks (all about size 1 to 2/0) in its stomach in various states of corrosion. Including a stainless O'Shaughnessy which was corroded-black and , after scraping, about half the usual thickness.

Unfortunately I did not take careful note of whether it was developing any ulcers or necroses where the hooks were piercing the stomach wall. Wish I had.

Apology to beginners sorry that this is getting away from clear, simple, believable advice . If you are waiting to make your mind up about hook materials, you can take the advice given on using T-bars and also circle hooks or other ways not to deep-hook fish.

[moonshiners]

forgot to mention one of my favorites... Eat it!

[Ajohn]

The comments about them not rotting out in a few days is interesting as that quote came from some tests that were done a long time ago on black nickel plated fine wire hooks. Could be that the barb rots off 1st and the hooks then come out. Also fishing a typical 2/0 for about 6 hours noticeably blunts it.
I have used disgorgers in the past mostly on coarse fish and came to the conclusion that they often do more harm than good if the hook can't be seen or reached. On that basis I will leave hooks that can't be got at or seen in place and simply cut the line as far in as I can get without hurting the fish. I also try and use a hook size that is less likely to be completely swallowed by small fish when they are about. 3/0 is useful for that.
Each to his own but no way will I use stainless hooks full stop. There are a whole range of stainless steels available. Marine grades will hardly rot at all.

John

[wilba]

Just a thought I have had and not meant in any way to be inflamatory.

If you work with steel and get a bit of mild under your skin it rusts and goes manky, the area is I presume affected by the byproducts of the steel corroding. If on the other hand you get a bit of good quality stainless you don't notice it until you catch it on something and it jabs you.

I was wondering if a stainless hook would cause less infection if left in a fish than a mild steel hook and would the hook reguardless of material eventually work it's way out of the flesh. Do mild steel hooks when they corrode cause infection in the flesh of the fish?

Has anyone ever seen or done a comparrison of stainless against mild steel, everything I have ever read has solely been concerned with 'rustable' hooks with the absolute advice never to use stainless.

(I don't use stainless by the way)

:g: :g: that a pretty dam good point there chris:clap3: :clap3:

over to the boffins:)

[Ajohn]

Tossing one more thing in for newbies who may have never gutted a fish can anybody who has state that it's a good idea to stick a disgorger down their and isn't the act of removing the hook likely to do more damage than just leaving it there?

That's where I fall out with disgorgers. If the hook can be seen they can be used to aid removal but forceps or pliers are better.
Barbs can also be knocked down with a pair of pliers leaving a hump that will aid hook retention and make it much easier to get out but if it can't be seen it's still best left in place.

John

[Phil Arnott]

I’ve been using the disgorger shown in the picture for over twenty years. It will remove hooks from deep-hooked fish with minimal damage. There is no other disgorger to touch them although it requires a bit of practice to use them correctly.

I believe Mike Thrussell wrote a little piece on them some time ago. I used it when stewarding the Junior International at Bridlington in 2003 and removed the fish for the competitors. The French manager was so impressed he bought four of them.

The only source is Keith Lamming of East Coast Tackle Hornsea East Yorks. Tel. No. 01964 535064


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/218/491661913_773349ed66_o.jpg

[nick R]

If i get one deep hooked but can still get at it i just snip it in half and pull out both ends

[crazyplums]

I was wondering if a stainless hook would cause less infection if left in a fish than a mild steel hook and would the hook reguardless of material eventually work it's way out of the flesh. Do mild steel hooks when they corrode cause infection in the flesh of the fish?

Has anyone ever seen or done a comparrison of stainless against mild steel, everything I have ever read has solely been concerned with 'rustable' hooks with the absolute advice never to use stainless.

(I don't use stainless by the way)

i don't think you'd be able to buy a good enough quality stainless steel at a sensible price, most stainless steel these days it utter toss, goes rusty in no time (even £20 filet knives..grrr) real stainless, as you'd probably know, costs a fortune !

personally i only ever throw back a fish with a hook in extreme cases, ie a big fish that should recover ok, or something like a gar, whick you couldn't pay me to eat. normally i do whatever possible to remove a hook, even if it means giving up for a while as letting the fish have a breather in the bucket ! in the last 2 years, i think only 3 fish have been returned with a hook. normally, if it don't come out, the fish is coming home, or occasionaly thrown back dead, gotta be better to return to the food chain than leave to potentiall suffer, (no i aint a commercial !)

[lobbit]

Don't believe everything you hear from Rexy ... "Hook will be gone in 24 hours or so ...".

I did a series of controlled experiments on a selection of common beach hooks (blued, bronzed, nickel plated. stainless, tinned, etc) for one of the mags.

I used sea water; distilled water and dilute acid (2M like stomach juices). All kept at a steady 18 deg C (warm for the sea).

There was only 'flaking' after 4 days on the bronze and nickel plated. Most of the others were intact.
After 7 days, flaking was only slightly more noticeable on bronzed and tinned.

It was fully three weeks before you could remove any of the hooks in a crumbly, corroded state. Needless to say, corrosion was most pronounced in the acid solution, but it's unlikely that deep hooked fish means the hooks would be exposed to this concentration of acid.


It opened my eyes to the need to remove hooks if at all possible. The 'killer' area is damage to the gills of the fish. Some fish may well survive with the hook embedded in fleshy parts of the mouth and throat.

Over to you Doctor .....

Ada


hey i learned this from looking at hooks disgarded onthe ground they last a bloody (gone all oz their yibbida yibbida )while longer than that lol ,ive some in my tin from 10 years ago
but they dont have the fishes imune system acting on them infection movement etc all work a hook loose leave a splinter in your hand and its gone in a week pushed out by scar tissue and puss , pierce your ear and dont put a back on it it will be out the next day the stray mono i guess ,helps draw the hook out as well