looking forward......... going of to the right

**unluckyin angling** · 28-12-2006, 19:06

hi all,

been using a multiplier for past few months for a bit of distance rather than float fishing, i have a shimano speedmaster and a 7000i, i feel that i am getting a decent distance average 100 / 120 yds but never straight ahead, allways of to the right.
I have tried to realease later with the cast usualy overhead thump or off the ground as i fish allot of cramped places.

your advise please

UIA

**Mark(south)** · 28-12-2006, 19:11

Change the length of your drop.

normally a good starting point with OTG is level with the bottom eye on the butt but there are no hard and fast rules.

**Issy** · 28-12-2006, 19:12

Be glad to hear the answer to this as I tend to cast to the right, have to aim to the left to get the line out in front!

**north devon angler** · 28-12-2006, 19:42

i had this problem when i first started fishing some years ago now. and found it to be a couple of things feet position , line drop but after alot of practice trys and errors i got the lot perfacted just slightly ajusted the line drop to start with i have it about 6 to 7 foot now. but verys in the rod you use it just a case of changeing it untill u get it right once i found the right drop i started changeing my footing untill it all came togather. feels strange at first but once u get it right and get used to it u will also find an improvement on your distance. even try changeing your casting, technique a good one is like the off the ground cast . the rod follows the same diriction but the weight stays in the air . push the weight away from you when the weight stops in the air drop the tip towards the ground connect with the weight and pull on the power (as in the off the ground cast).... the weight starts of in the same poisition as in the otg cast but the weight is about 3 foot of the ground hope this helps ... if not this cast is shown in many casting books and on some casting internet sites.

**philtherod** · 29-12-2006, 07:18

If after some practice your rod feels either too stiff, or alternatively, it feels like a stick of rhubarb using the same weight of lead, in the first case, too stiff, lengthen the drop to the lead a few inches at a time, and the rod will start to feel softer as the length increases.
In the second case, if your rod feels soft and rubbery, then shorten the drop again by a few inches at a time, and you will reach a point where it is like the porridge, just right.
Only YOU can do this, no-one else can do it for you, as each individuals physique differs, and eaches perception of what is just right will differ as well.
Occasionally it is useful to try a large step-change (and I am NOT referring to the moving feet as you cast that so many think is going to improve what they are doing), and lengthen/shorten by a much larger amount so you can really feel the difference it will make. If shortening, take it easy - this can turn a rod action really fierce and throw you off your feet!

philtherod

**David Gould** · 30-12-2006, 20:46

Phill
Re your last ,

Do I take it as read that you will most likely need to change your rig lengths to suit if the drop distance is severely shortened?

I have made up a slack handful of 1 mtr main rig bodies and reading your input has made me realise that the momentum developed will change with change in drop length but I didn't think it through to a better casting style .

**philtherod** · 31-12-2006, 10:44

My normal advice it to learn casting and fishing separately. I use a template which is drawn on a sandy beach with the aid of a right foot, and the length of drop to the lead to start with at HALF the length of the rod. After a dozen casts, keeping the power low, then evaluate how the rod felt. Was it "hard" or "soft"?

Now re-read this:-

If after some practice your rod feels either too stiff, or alternatively, it feels like a stick of rhubarb using the same weight of lead, in the first case, too stiff, lengthen the drop to the lead a few inches at a time, and the rod will start to feel softer as the length increases.
In the second case, if your rod feels soft and rubbery, then shorten the drop again by a few inches at a time, and you will reach a point where it is like the porridge, just right.
Only YOU can do this, no-one else can do it for you, as each individuals physique differs, and eaches perception of what is just right will differ as well.
Occasionally it is useful to try a large step-change (and I am NOT referring to the moving feet as you cast that so many think is going to improve what they are doing), and lengthen/shorten by a much larger amount so you can really feel the difference it will make. If shortening, take it easy - this can turn a rod action really fierce and throw you off your feet!
My beach rigs are normally up to 1.5 metres long for long-range work; for short range (up to ~80-90 metres) , I use a staggered flapper (don't ask!) with a rig total length of up to 2.5 metres. I normally use floating fusion braid in this situation, hence the staggered flapper.
Hope this helps.

philtherod

**DAVE H** · 31-12-2006, 12:04

the only prob with that phil is there are a lot of soft rods out there
so you you may end up with a very short drop
it would be better to learn to stop the rod to get you aim down the center.

**philtherod** · 31-12-2006, 12:28

You are right, as all good casting consists of acceleration to a STOP, whether sea, fly or spincasting. I thought no-one used what I used to refer to as twang-butt rods any more.
Unless a client produces a reverse taper rod to learn with ( I have 2 as part of my collection), I normally assume anglers are all using fast action rods of one sort or another. By this I mean tip or middle-to-tip action with a firm, but not necessarily rigid butt.
For the reverse tapers I use a modification of Les. Moncrieff's "Toss-back" cast to show how these rods can be used, which would take hours to write down, so if you don't use a reverse taper, don't ask!!

philtherod

**DAVE H** · 31-12-2006, 12:50

My fishing cast used to be of the moncriff school
And i used what a lot would call powerfull rods kompressor GPs- apollo14ft and befor them century f1
now i use TT-Rs and WR300s at 15ft and 14ft3 still find you control the rod and stop the rod in the right place the cast will go away down the center.
It when the rod controls the caster that it goes where it wants not where you want