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DIY Servicing

Discussion in 'Boat Owning, Equipment and Maintenance' started by ChrisP, Feb 3, 2005.

  1. Rajabatis

    Rajabatis

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    Alana sound a good idea but can't really see that making any lasting difference on inhibiting corrosion.
    The oil/water emulsion will just wash away first time it comes in contact with water. Especially with water flowing rapidly and diluting any residue left behind after your flushing. Corrosion is prevented by creating a barrier from the elements attacking it. This oil won't do that.
    That type of oil is as a cooling lubricant mixed with water for cutting tools, as you say.
    I use it on my lathe and it does not coat the metel being cut or the tool used. It just washes away. Which is the whole point of it, to lubricate the cutting tool and remove heat generated by the cutting process.
     
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  3. alana

    alana Member

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    all i can say is i use it ,and when i have had to get into a motor that it has been used in, the waterways are coated in a oily residue
     
  4. alana

    alana Member

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    i should have made it clear. that i use it during the laying up flushing .sorry
     
  5. Rajabatis

    Rajabatis

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    Maybe so but water/moisture just dilutes it...........if it doesn't keep water at bay. What's the point?
     
  6. Nos4r2

    Nos4r2 Member

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    I wonder if it doesn't stop the water it's diluted with absorbing oxygen. That'd stop corrosion for a while.
     
  7. Rajabatis

    Rajabatis

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    Hi Yes but does it stop oxygen absorbtion? Not sure what miracle process you think is happening with this water soluble oil? You can check out the facts about corrosien/oxidisation from many sources. No need to wonder.
    If you are happy doing that oil thing keep on doing it.


    You can try a simple test though. Get a peice of bare steel. Coat it in that oil and leave it outside in an exposed place for a week. I would bet money on it it being rusty after that small amount of exposure.
     
  8. alana

    alana Member

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    looks like i have been wasting my time useing that oil. ah well not the first time iv`e been wrong, and i know it wont be the last. one good thing has come out of it.you can learn things on this web site
     
  9. Rajabatis

    Rajabatis

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    Hi I have wasted ££££s on stuff before engaging brain. Remember the wonderfull claims made for WD40 when it came out I used it all the time with complete confidence. So did most folks. Then I did that bare metal test. Absolutely no use as a corrosion/oxidation protecter! Water displacer on electrical parts? Maybe.... but not to sure on that score either. Light oil when the solvents evaporate..yes! It does work as a release oil though, but so do lots of other commonly used products. White spirit with a touch of engine oil in it ace! So is petrol and oil. Diesel is good too! Try diesel on bare metal holds the rust back for a good long while, but it needs recoating to keep working and to build up a film.

    I'm about to try that ridiculously expensive ACF-50 that claims things I can beleive, but at £12.00 or more a can. It had better be good!
     
  10. alana

    alana Member

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    by the way does anyone know if the stuff called SEA CREEP/SEA FOAM is available in the uk. the yanks seem to swear by it
     
  11. Rajabatis

    Rajabatis

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    By the sounds of the manufactures blurb it will solve 3 world hunger problems too!
    http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreepTech.htm
     
  12. Nos4r2

    Nos4r2 Member

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    It's the same as Redex but with added yankee bull*hit.
     
  13. Pelamid

    Pelamid Member

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    Has anyone experience of a product named SALT-X.
    I have treated the outside surfaces of my engine with it but not yet an engine flush.
    If you can believe the sale blurb it might be good.:unsure:
     
  14. Rajabatis

    Rajabatis

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    Hi I tried it on some salt encrusted and corroded rope guides on my boat. Made no difference. I think it might work if the items were soaked in it. I wire brushed all the parts to get them as clean as possible. Then put waxoyl on them. Not pretty but better than anything else I have tried to stop corrosian.
    As an example of how good that stuff is. I do a bit of cycling. And keep a bike for summer and one for the nast salty winter roads. All the hubs/cranks and gears are treated with waxoyl on the winter one. I put a new back wheel on the winter bike and forgot to treat the anodised alloy hub. It is now useless and has turned into a greyish powder. Parts of it have just dissolved. The waxed parts are still all in good condition.
    My engine is lathered in it too and the trailer. All the bolts and stuff below the waterline. I spray it clean with the hose when I get back home. The salt comes off, but the wax coating stays put.
    Dave.
     
  15. Pelamid

    Pelamid Member

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    I have had a few trips in the boat and have been using Salt-X to finish off washing the engine and have been running 5 litres of the solution through at the end of an engine flush.

    No way to know how it works in the cooling system of the engine but it removes dried on salt from the exterior completely - and further deposits seem to wipe off easily afterwards.

    For the little it costs to try this it gives me some satisfaction that I am doing something to stop salt buildup in the cooling system.

    I have had a couple of old auxiliary engines completely choked with salt in the past and it's worth the effort to avoid it in a large(expensive) main engine.

    The company that sells Salt-X also sell PHEW-GO - does what it says. Spray it on smelly clothing, seats etc and it really does work.:clap3:
     
  16. Pelamid

    Pelamid Member

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  17. David N

    David N Guest

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    As steering rod stiffness has cropped up a few times in recent posts, It might be worth doing a bit of preventitive maintainence there to prevent problems.

    It was ChrisP I think? That originally posted this good tip and I now do the following procedure regularly:

    This is assuming you don't have a grease nipple fitted on your steering ferrule to give a squirt with the grease gun now and again!
    Turn the wheel and fully extend the rod on full lock and grease the rod liberally. Retract the rod on opposite full lock to get the grease in to the female tube. Then do the whole process over again a few times.
    If you are leaving the boat for any length of time slap a big dollop round where the rod exits to prevent moisure getting in over a period of time. Don't forget to grease the linkage to the motor as well while you are in the area.
    Your steering will then remain sound and ready for use without any worries if you follow the above procedure.
    Prevention is better than cure as they say.:) Chris also mentioned waxing your motor for storage and leaving it unpolished. Waxoyl as already mentioned works even better. Just brush or spray it on and it it soaks in and when dry leaves a thick wax waterproof coating.
     
  18. Malroy

    Malroy Member

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    Being that time of the year again:

    For anybody who has not heard of or tried it, I can thoroughly recommend trying out ACF 50 all over your engine and electrics.

    http://www.acf-50.co.uk/acf50.htm

    Been using it now on my boat engines and my motorcycle for the last 3 years and it really does work.

    You can actually spray it on an exhaust where it smokes a bit at first but then still leaves a protective film barrier.

    Quite expensive, but worth it IMO. Plenty about on a well known auction site.
     
  19. bav

    bav Member

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    thanks for that info, i will have a go myself
    and save a few beer tokens!
     
  20. scootb73

    scootb73 Member

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    Luckily my uncle is a marine engineer,I think I'll get him over to service my johnson next time he gets back(hopefully get the oil free ;) )
     
  21. wreckferret

    wreckferret Member

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    http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/OSU005
     
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