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Rod build project from scratch

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by STAN M, Sep 26, 2009.

  1. BassBE

    BassBE Member

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    Extra question regarding the bonda seal, will it lift/dissolve zziplex decals? Thinking about coating mine with bonda seal to get the glossy finish.
     
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  3. STAN M

    STAN M Member

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    Did one only a week or two back, Zzippie. Cleaned the decal well down but only with meths. Coated over them with BS, no problem at all.

    That was a rod for Tommy, Karl`s mate. That decal had already been covered with resin at the manufacturing years back.

    Stan
     
  4. Topefisher

    Topefisher Member

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    You make the best rods
     
  5. STAN M

    STAN M Member

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    Past your bedtime young man :whistling
     
  6. Richy_S

    Richy_S Member

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    Great thread Stan, with a wealth of valuable info, fingers crossed for the conoflex nemisis I'm rebuilding.
    :drunk:
     
  7. STAN M

    STAN M Member

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    Just a wee heads up here. Had a PM today re the Bonda Seal over car paint on a blank. I know all the stories about car paint cracking or not flexing etc etc, having said that I`ve sprayed tens of dozens of rods with car paint and never a problem.

    Anyway the PM. A member coated the rod with Bonda Seal 24 hrs after spraying with car paint. This aint gonna work. You need to leave the spray paint to cure for at least 7 - 8 days, otherwise the Bonda Seal will act as a paint stripper. 10 - 12 days better. :wheelchai:marinheir
     
  8. borisono

    borisono Member

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    I've enjoyed reading your thread about rod building, I've picked up some useful tips for my next projects one of which is a fly rod, which leads me to a question I would like to ask about the finish on the fly rod which was a green translucent finish, do you know of any way of adding a dye or tint to the Bonda seal so that I can replicate the original finish or even change the colour on the rod? Jim
     
  9. STAN M

    STAN M Member

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    Hi Jim, I`ve no personal experience of tinting the BS but I know a man who has. Well not actually BS, rod builder mate of mine uses 2 pack International varnish on blanks and you can get a tint for them, not sure about BS but try the tints from International, (they will send you samples) but try it on a spare bit first.

    Stan
     
  10. borisono

    borisono Member

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    Thanks Stan I will look into that
     
  11. biscuitlad

    biscuitlad Member

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    Great thread this - delighted to come across it as I have an 3 piece Orvis travel spinning rod that has a wrecked reel seat and kn*ckered cork due to many harsh kayaking trips, I think one of the rings has slipped a bit under its wraps too. So this winter's project is a re-build! Didn't bank on it being quite such a big project, but this thread seems encouraging and I must say a big thanks to Stan for putting so much work into it. :)

    Bit like Borisono's rod, the Orvis has a translucent green finish. What can I use to get this off, so I can get back down to the original blank?

    I guess cutting the old wraps off and cleaning the blank might require some wet and dry - but should I worry about deeper scratches, such as caused by a knife when cutting off the old wraps, or can those be sanded out?

    Many thanks.
     
  12. Rossco99

    Rossco99 Member

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    To avoid cutting into the rod blank when removing old whippings keep your blade flat to the blank and always try to aim for were the metal feet of the guides are, hope that helps a wee bit, and your right a really great thread that gives confidence to do it yourself :)
     
  13. biscuitlad

    biscuitlad Member

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    Thing is I want to change to single foot guides, so I guess I don't want any scratches. Could I ask what you used to get all the old varnish / paint off the blank?
     
  14. Rossco99

    Rossco99 Member

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    It really depends what your taking off and how much, I have sat for hours with a small blade and shaved off old paint other times been able to sand it down starting with a course sand paper all the way to fine 12000 grade wet & dry in steps i.e 80 - 100 - 180 and so on by the time you have finished 12000 make sure the blank is spotless like said in this thread before applying in this/my case bonda seal in a dust free enviroment, just to note mate I am still very much a novice at this and still learning,
    Oh and I was told just last night that single legged guides are wrapped/locked differently as they need extra support being just 1 leg, how it is done I don't yet know but hopefully someone will be along soon to put us both right.
     
  15. biscuitlad

    biscuitlad Member

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    Cheers! :)
     
  16. STAN M

    STAN M Member

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    What Ross has said is fine, gentle rubbing down with wet and dry, 600 -800 to start with going down to 1200 (guess Ross`s 12,000 was a typo).

    You can also gently scrape the varnish first with a sharp stanley type blade held vertical (guillotine style).

    Again as Ross says cut above the feet of the guide with a blade after heating the resin coat with a cig. lighter, gently, keep the rod turning as you heat it, only takes 4-5 secs and 4-5 turns, the rest can be picked off by hand if you are not keen to go near the blank with a blade, personally I just whack the lot off in one go but I`ve done it a few times :wheelchai

    On the single leg locking wraps check here

    http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/forhan.html
     
  17. biscuitlad

    biscuitlad Member

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    Thanks Stan and Ross - great resource the rodbuilding.org link, I'll definitely be browsing my way through their library!
     
  18. codeyejax

    codeyejax Member

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    Thanks for all the work that's gone into this,very informative,and kind of given me the confidence to give it a go myself,have an old Zziplex federation and Conoflex cod 6,both waiting for some restoration,think I'll start with cod 6,thanks again to all involved with this thread,cheers


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  19. codeyejax

    codeyejax Member

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  20. STAN M

    STAN M Member

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  21. codeyejax

    codeyejax Member

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    Thanks Stan this thread has got my brain ticking.
    Thinking of getting my Zziplex professionally done,if your interested??but going to give Conoflex a go myself.
    Going to forget about spray painting rod,so I need to take rod back to 1200 wet&dry grit then it's fully prepared for bondacoat ?
    Thanks again you must get loads of messages.


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