1. Becoming a WSF Member is Free, you can also sign up using your Facebook, Twitter or Google Account to make life even easier.

    Membership has the following benefits:
    - Members gain full access to the whole of the WSF site, including our popular for sale boards.
    - The ability to search through 10 years worth of tackle advice and catch reports.
    - Less adverts.
    - Regular updates on what is happening in the world of sea fishing.

    SIGN UP NOW FOR FREE

  2. VerticalScope Inc has acquired WorldSeaFishing - for a full statement please see the following thread:

    VerticalScope Inc has acquired WorldSeaFishing

    Dismiss Notice

Rod build project from scratch

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by STAN M, Sep 26, 2009.

  1. STAN M

    STAN M Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    6,277
    Trophy Points:
    183
    Location:
    Lanarkshire
    Obviously first remove the guides. Gently heat the thread wraps, one at a time with a cig. lighter, turning the blank as you do it, only three four turns should take no more than 4 or 5 seconds. Sharp Stanley blade and cut into the resin and thread working away from the blank into the actual guide. Cut over the top of the guide foot so you dont damage the blank, peel off with finger nail or whatever and the remainder below the guide foot should pull away / unravel, might need the odd extra bit of heat. (not the method I use personally but my method is dodgy unless you have been doing it close to 50 years :rolleyes:) Work down all the guides, reinforcing wraps etc, just careful at the reinforcing wraps (joints) as no guide foot to cut above, take your time and keep blade almost flat to the blank so not to dig in and use just the first 1/8th inch of the blade point, not like peeling a potato using the entire flat of the blade..

    Once all off get a few sharp blades and start scraping the blank holding the blade guillotine style and slightly sloping back from the direction of scrape so again as not to dig in.

    Once everything off (or the majority) rub blank with 400 gauge scratch paper then 800 then 1000. Clean up with meth between coats and cellulose thinners before bondaseal ( I never said to use celly thinners, must have been Phil, sue him ;)) The fine coats, 800 / 1000 you can use wet and dry in soapy water , not much more to tell

    I lie (as always) very first step before you start and rely on my years of experience here, have some plasters handy :eek::D.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2015
    • Like Like x 1
  2. Register or Sign in

    Advertisement Sponsor

     
  3. SuperBassMaster

    SuperBassMaster Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2006
    Messages:
    1,865
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    Isle of Wight
    Super quick reply, ill start it this weekend. And post my troubles and wounds on here for all to see.
     
  4. NickK-UK

    NickK-UK Member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2015
    Messages:
    1,264
    Trophy Points:
    103
    Location:
    Surrey
    Q1: Any tips for removing existing guides?

    Q2: Is there any criteria for selecting thread based on class of rod? Ie a 12-20lb rod thread is the same as a 30-50lb rod thread?

    Q3: Are all tips done with a simple glue?

    I'm going to do my own guide replacement with a 50lb rod using 30-50lb guides with under wrap. So I'll be splitting the overwrap, removing the guide, cutting the underwrap back to the blank, sandpapering, then rebuilding by blank varnish, under wrap, ...
     
  5. STAN M

    STAN M Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Messages:
    6,277
    Trophy Points:
    183
    Location:
    Lanarkshire

    1) Gently heat the resin over the guide thread with a cig lighter, turning the rod as you go, 3-5 turns and around 3-5 seconds should be enough, sharp blade and cut into the thread and resin. If you have never done it before cut into the thread / resin above the guide foot to protect the blank then unwind the remainder.

    2) 12-20lb 30 -50lb I use "C". Nothing to be gained by using heavier threads, the strength of bind comes from the number of thread wraps per inch / cm. so actually "A" is the strongest bind (but a pain to use on big rods. Even on 130lb marlin rods I use "C" but they are all double overwrapped. For the under wraps "A"

    3) Hot melt glue is fine for most UK rods but not the cheap crap for glue guns from B & Q etc. There is actual "tip top" hot melt adhesive from most rod building suppliers. If a heavy rod for use in warm countries, 2 part epoxy every time.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2015
    • Useful Useful x 1
  6. Register or Sign in

    Advertisement Sponsor

     

Share This Page

Desktop