Saltwater Fly Lines

There are four designs of fly line referred too. These are level, double-taper, weight-forward and shooting taper. In a nutshell level and double tapers do not lend themselves to saltwater fly fishing. Virtually all knowledgeable sea fly fisherman choose the weight-forward type line.

Weight-forward means that the bulk of the lines weight is pushed up in to the front 30-feet of the line to give casting weight. Behind this first 30-feet the fly line tapers quickly to a thin running line that can be shot easily. The heavy front of the line is used to work and flex the rod in to its casting arc, and once the line is cast the loose running line is shot through the rings to increase the casting distance. This allows quick one-cast and shoot type fishing if you're casting to fish on sight.

The "belly" of the line refers to the section between the very front end of the line and the beginning of the taper towards the thin running line rearward of the weight-forward section. A normal long belly section sees the lines weight evenly spread along its length. This creates a smoother casting loop, the line slows down faster, and the touch down of the line as it hits the water is less harsh giving improved presentation. Lines with a short belly and the weight very concentrated are not easy to cast and will "smack" down on the water hard, which can put shy feeding fish off.

A shooting head has all the weight concentrated in the first 30-feet of the fly line and is used just as a casting weight is to first load the rod then cast it using that stored power, with the lines weight pulling the loose thin backing line with it. The shooting head is useful for extreme range when you need to search the maximum amount of water, but in reality have lost popularity. Most modern weight-forward lines shoot extremely well and distances cast are more than enough to locate willing feeding fish.

FLY LINE CONNECTORS
The good old fashioned nail knot is still referred to as the best and most reliable means by which to connect the butt section line to the fly line. It is a good way, but not infallible. I've seen nail knots when under pressure from good fish cut through the fly coating and sheer it off. I used to use nail knots myself, but no opt for a braided mono connection.

You need to take care fitting the braided mono loop to your fly line. The average braided mono loop full length is a little over 7-inches long. It relies on gripping a section of the fly line and is further supported by sliding plastic tube over the upper section of the braid. Here's how to fir one correctly to give both strength and good presentation.

STEP 1. Cut a 2-inch length of plastic tube off and slide this over the cut end of the braid sliding the tube as far as it will go towards the loop end.

STEP 2. Slide the fly line inside the cut end of the braid. You'll find this easier if you pinch the fly line and braid together, then with the other hand push the loose braid down the fly line a bit a time pulling the slack braid down the fly line with the other hand in alternate sequence. The fly line needs to be fully inside the braid as far as the end of the plastic tube.

STEP 3. Slide the tube up the braid until it comes up against the fly line inside the braid. Now slide the tube over the fly line by strongly pulling and sliding the fingers down the tube. This takes time and needs to be done slowly and carefully to avoid potential over wraps in the tube. Continue sliding the tubing down the braid and fly line until it just reaches the very end of the braid.

You can add a dab of superglue to the end of the braid just prior to pulling the last bit of tubing over it, but I've found this unnecessary, even when tackling foreign gamesters like dorado. If you have that long section of braid with the 2-inch length of tubing, done correctly it should be totally strong, and far stronger than your tippet material.

Done like this the loose braid over the fly line below the tubing stretches under tension and increases it's grip on the fly to a greater degree as pressure increases. The tubing is the anchor system and gives the solid base to keep all intact.

Having the loose braid over the line below the tubing also helps to keep the fly line end straight. Some anglers make the tubing longer and place it right at the end of the fly line looking for more strength, but this actually causes the fly line to bend round a little on itself giving poor casting presentation and retrieve.

Always check these connections before each trip holding them under pressure for a few seconds. It hasn't happened to me, but some say that if a line has not been used for some time, tension on the braid loop sleeve falls and the connection can fail.

SALTWATER LEADERS
You need to consider that saltwater flies are big. Usually 2-inches long or more. There are no problems getting the fly to turn over at the end of the cast.

Start by attaching a 30-inch butt section of 20lb to 30lb Amnesia clear line. I prefer a line that is supple, not as many suggest a harder less forgiving line. For estuary fishing and light surf where there is a chance of fish being shy the supple Amnesia gives slightly better presentation. In heavy open sea surf conditions when you're casting in to a head wind, then a stiffer butt section of 30lb Maxima Marine Green cuts through the wind slightly better.

There is no need for tapered sectional leaders for normal sea fly fishing. A 5 to 6-foot length of 8lb to 15lb Fluoro carbon knotted direct to the butt section fishes really well and gives perfect turnover of normal sized flies. Not all Fluoro carbon lines react the same though. Go for Varivas supplied by Veals, Bristol, or Tubertini TR-2 Carbon White. These knot well, sink quickly and have proved the most reliable.

Tapered leaders are only needed when you switch to small flies targeting garfish, mullet and mackerel. Stick with the 30-inch 20lb butt section, then add 40-inches of 15lb clear Fluoro carbon, a further 30-inches of 10lb Fluoro carbon, and finish with 20-inches of 5lb Fluoro carbon. This tapered leader casts smaller flies right down to size 10 pretty well. You can use the same formula for standard monofilament line, though Fluoro carbon is more resilient at taking the knocks and abrasion when up against a tough mouth.

I use four turn surgeon knots to connect the lines together. I've never had one of these fail, but I do draw the knot slowly together and make sure the coils of line are evenly closed. There is a train of thought that thinks that knots should be initially drawn tight under water. This keeps the knot cool in the initial closure stage and adds basic lubrication. You can then fully pull the knot together as normal.

For attaching the fly to the leader use a uni-knot or a normal tucked half-blood knot. Both are very reliable and easy to tie in wet and windy conditions, or when stood waist high in the surf.