LENGTH
The length of a saltwater fly rods are generally shorter than those used in freshwater. There are several reasons for this. Firstly the shorter rods are more able to combat the often constant high wind conditions saltwater fly fishers endure. They are also lighter than longer rods and the caster tires less easily when making repeated long casts with heavy lines. The longer the rod used the less leverage advantage you have and the more the fish has. Again you tire quicker than when the fish using the long rod with leverage working against you.

The ideal length is either 9-feet or 9ft 6ins. After years of fly fishing in saltwater my favourite length is the 9-foot rod. It has the length to lift a good length of line and big fly off the water, but also the height to create a good back cast.

Its action needs to be medium/fast to fast. Many recommend slow/medium actioned rods, but a fast taper rod can really hit a line in to a head wind, plus a fast actioned rod tends to have the butt power to turn big fish like bass and pollack away from potential snags.

With modern materials the need to minimise rod joints becomes almost irrelevant. Where one a two-piece rod would be the first choice, now four and five piece travel rods have excellent actions with no real loss of performance due to the multiple section joints. If transportation is not the main concern, then a 3-piece rod is ideal being easily stored in the car and carried.

Pay attention to the ring types supplied with so called saltwater rods. Ideally there should be one, sometimes two full cage ceramic butt stripping guides. This takes the main workload as you strip the line in by hand to make the fly work in the water. Remember the fly line will be at a sharp angle to the ring as you pull with the retrieve hand, hence the heavy work load this last butt ring must endure.

Without doubt the very best intermediate rig design for a saltwater fly rod is the old fashioned snake ring. The modern idea to fit "smart" looking single leg guides to fly rods actually decreases line shooting ability. The relatively large for its overall size chromed snake ring minimises friction and line drag during the shoot and increases casting range.

The design of the snake ring also gives peace of mind when a bigger than average fish runs off all the fly line and takes the fly line to backing line joint out through the rod rings at top speed. Using single leg eyes with small ring diameters sees the backing joint clip the edges of the ring. With the snake rings the free flow of the backing joint is almost unnoticeable.

Most saltwater fly rods continue to use cork handles. Cork is tough, warm when wet, non-slip in average conditions, and easy on the hands when prolonged casting. There are two main shapes of cork handle.

The Half-Wells is cigar shaped but with a dip in the side profile at the end facing towards the rod tip. The Full-Wells has a dip at both ends of the handle shape. Both work very well, but the majority of anglers prefer the Full-Wells as being the most comfortable. The two dips in the profile accommodate the lower side of the hand, but the upper dip gives good purchase for the thumb, which acts as a stop for many casters during the back cast.

There are two other handle shapes. The Phillipe Cigar is basically a cigar shape tapering down at both ends of the grip. The Hardy has a dip in the profile at the reel seat end, but tapers down at the tip end.

Reel seats will be either anodized alloy or graphite. Both are good, but protect the alloy with regular coats of car wax polish to help preserve it. Also check that your reel will fit the reel seat. Some reels have overlarge seats that will not fit some rods.

You'll find a fighting butt, or an extension below the end of the reel seat is an advantage when playing big fish for long periods. It helps to minimise tiredness if you tuck it in to the body to brace the rod and relieve the forearm. The larger and more round the butt cap is on the extension the comfier it is in use. Many now use tough neoprene foam protectors below cork as butt caps and these too are excellent and preferred to rubber but caps.

When buying your chosen rod, if the rod does not come supplied with a rod protector case, and then buy one. Fly rods are easily damaged and a rode tube is a worthwhile investment that can save a days fishing.

CHOOSING A LINE-WEIGHT FOR SALTWATER FISHING
For estuaries and generally sheltered waters targeting school bass and garfish, and even from open beaches in high summer for mackerel and scad a 7/8-weight rod will be adequate if you're casting smaller lightweight flies in to calm clear water where fish might be scared by a poorly presented fly. In reality saltwater fish as a rule are not easily scared by poor fly presentation, in fact they often respond to the splash down of the fly as it simulates a wounded fish on the surface or jumping fry.

The best all-round line weight for UK saltwater, and for many smaller overseas species from both shore and boat is a 9 or 10-weight. I personally opt for the 9. It casts well, does not tire me easily, but can punch out relatively big flies in to a head on wind. I use the same 9-weight rod for UK bass and pollack, plus it's been used in Florida for weakfish, snappers, barracuda and jacks, and has accounted for bonito, dorado, surf perch and numerous snappers in Mexico. Used with care and with a sensibly set drag the rod is a match for all small to medium sized species.

It may not be absolutely ideal, but you can also use a one size heavier line weight on any rod to smooth the rod action down if required. Or go one size lighter to stiffen the rod.