The choice and design of rigs prompts more questions and arguments than just about any other angling topic. There are dozens of rig variations, but which ones do you really need to carry, and then what's the best way to construct rigs, and which components are the best choice?

This feature picks out seven different shore rigs that form the basis of most specialist and top match anglers wallets. You'll get the full run down on the best components, the right way to fix them, and the logical dimensions which cause many anglers nightmares.

Follow the instructions and you'll be the proud owner of a rig wallet full of all the rigs you're ever likely to need.

THE COMPONENTS

RIG BODY LINE
Line strength needs to be no less than 50lbs for beach rigs, and most powerful shore casters prefer 60lbs to allow for knot strength depreciation. For rigs to be used over clean ground where bait presentation is important, choose a line that is supple but not soft. Maxima Chameleon, Stren, Ryobi Masterline or Greased Weasel are good examples.

For rigs that are to be used in rough weather or over mixed ground where abrasion is more likely to occur, then a less supple, harder surface line is required. Maxima Marine Green is the most popular, though Shakespeare Super Jet, Daiwa Tournament, Gantel and Siglon also do a good job.

SWIVELS
Use only quality rolling pattern swivels such as Berkley, Mustad or Leeda which are also made by Mustad. Bronze barrel swivels do not have the right construction to withstand casting forces, and they're even doubtful in the smaller sizes if you hook a decent fish. The eye can pull clear of the body.

Most anglers choose a swivel placed on the rig to take the hook length in too large a size. A rolling swivel size 10 will withstand a direct pull of 40lbs. Even a 50lb conger is beaten with a rod pull at the tip of maybe 5lbs maximum, and even this is notsustainable by the angler for long periods.

It's also important to remember that larger swivels only add weight to the rig and help to destroy bait presentation. For all normal shore situations, including winter codding, the size 10 is strong enough.

It doesn't matter whether the swivels have a round eye, or a diamond eye, though diamond eyes are the most frequent choice as a hook length swivel.

If you decide to use a swivel to connect the trace to the leader, then a size 6 round eye gives a reasonable strength cushion with a rating of 80lbs, though if you want one with more strength choose a size 4 which is rated to a pull of 110lbs.

SPLIT RINGS
Best by far are the Mustad Oval Split Rings, but Mustad do several different types. Most suitable is the 9944A which are nickel plated and resist corrosion well. If you want one that does not reflect light for clear water fishing, then choose the 9943D which has a dull duratinfinish.

A split ring is the best choice at the base of the rig to take the weight. Size 2/0 has the strength and will fit most lead wire loops, though some of the long tailed lead eyes are a tight fit and you may feel happier with a size 3/0.

Some match anglers prefer a split ring at the top of the trace in place of a swivel as the trace to leader connector. This is strong and allows a second split ring to be tied to the leader giving a quick release system when wanting to replace the rig. A round eyed rolling swivel size 6 on the rig and a 2/0 split ring tied to the leader does just the same job.

Alternatively, Breakaway have the excellent Fastlinks which make for a very quick rig release system used in conjunction with a size 6 or 4 round eyed rolling swivel.

BEADS
There's a vast array of beads available and suitable for rigs. Not just round ones, for there are some aerodynamically shaped ones that taper at one end. With the tapersfacing away from the hook length swivel these are supposed to increase casting range by helping to cut through the air.

Any difference in casting range as a direct contribution from these beads is likely to be hardly measurable at best, though they do make a neat trace which can be important.

Whether you prefer round or tapered beads, the main thing is that they are kept small. The 2-2.5mm ones are the best and jam up nicely inside the size 10 swivel eye. Larger beads, 5-8mm which are okay for some pulley rigs, are too obvious, not neat, anddetract from the overall presentation.

CRIMPS AND ALTERNATIVES
These act as stops between which the hook length swivel and beads are trapped on the rig body.

Ignore super gluing short lengths of electrical tubing to the line. When you cast, the rig stretch and the superglue breaks free, and some glues are not suited to being immersed in saltwater.

Best of all are the tiny black copper crimps sold for wire traces. The ones sized to take wire diameters between 10 and 15kg are the perfect fit over 50-60lbs mono. The format is a crimp, then a bead, the hook length swivel, another bead, then the final crimp.

Crimps need only a light depression in the middle with proper crimping pliers, not long nosed pliers etc, to hold them in place. The idea is to just press the inner walls of the crimp gently up against the line inside which is enough to stop it sliding, even when big fish are hooked. Don't get carried away and crimp too tightly, nor along the full length of the crimp, for if the line is damaged it can break when casting.

If you want adjustable stops so that you can raise and lower the position of hook length swivels, then use short 3" lengths of telephone wire. This wire is supple and can be coiled around the rig line, then twisted tight to lock it in place.

If you need very delicate presentation, then use line stops made by using 20lb mono knotted directly over the rig body. These tend to slide quite easily, though this is not a major problem. The rigs made with line stops are good when scratching for small fish.

There are some male/female type plastic connectors available that slide onto the rig body taking a swivel between them, then lock in to position by pushing them together. They work well enough, but are very bulky and obvious for correct presentation.

Breakaway also do a coil crimp which are short lengths of coiled wire that coil over the rig line and lock into place. Useful in certain situations, because they can beremoved without breaking down the rig.

BAIT CLIPS
Bait clips are well worth fitting to rigs you want to use for longer range fishing. These hold the hook and hook length tight to the rig body during the flight of the cast giving better bait presentation and improved casting distance. The hook is released as the lead weight strikes the surface water and tension on the rig lessens.

Best of the plastic molded bait clips are the Paul Kerry Clip or the Breakaway relay Clip. Both use rubber sleeving to hold the clip on to the rig body.

Also good are the bait clips made from stainless steel wire and electrical tubing. Cut off a 1.5" length of 18 gauge wire and round off the ends with a file. Using long nosed pliers bend the top .5" in to a half round shape at an 90 degree angle. The straight length of the clip then slides into the tubing which is slid onto the rig body, then bend up the bottom end slightly to stop the clip pulling upwards through the tubing under pressure. You can make smaller clips for smaller baits and hooks. This type of clip is also commercially made.

Standard clips like these are the best choice for two hook rigs and also for long range work with single hook rigs fishing smaller baits.

Very popular and extremely effective when maximum range is needed with medium to large baits are the Breakaway Impact Shields. These are a wind cutting disc with a bait clip at the back. The disc cuts a whole in the air during the cast with the bait travelling in the protected hole which improves it's presentation. Impact shields can improve casting distance by as much as 25yds.

To set up the Impact Shield, tie on the base split ring and work from the top of the rig. Slide on the supplied rubber sleeving cut to fit the shields leg and fit the shield in the tubing. Now slide on a 5mm bead and crimp. When the rig is completed position to Impact Shield just above the split ring to hold the hook length tight and position the crimp with the bead touching the top of the Shield, but with the crimp fractionally higher to give a minimum of slackness.

HOOK LENGTHS
Hook lengths should be made from a line that is supple without too much stretch, and in dark colours or clear. Maxima Chameleon, Bayer, Amnesia in black (and clear which is soon to be available), or Sylcast are the ones to look at, though there are many others.

For normal fishing for flounders, dabs, dogs, codling, coalies, bass etc, 20lb line is perfectly okay. For bigger cod, bass, rays, then go for 30-35lbs. Finer 12-15lb lines, even lighter to 6lbs, can add to the catch when scratching for smaller flatfish, pout and dabs, though this is more a competition necessity than pleasure fishing trick.

BAIT STOPS
There are some plastic molded bait stops available, but these tend to be too big and bulky, plus they stand out like a sore thumb and can damage the hook length line.

Much better is to slide on a small sequin as used on evening dresses etc, and tie in a small stop knot (uni knot using a short length of seperate line) above it to hold it in place. The sequins are round and flat with a small hole through the centre and prove ideal. Silver or black are the best choices.

BOOMS
When after flatfish, and sometimes when pier or jetty fishing, plastic booms in place of the hook length swivels improve the catch rate and eliminate tangles.

Booms such as the Avis and Drennan are the ones to judge others by. These have a barrel shaped body with a hole through the centre which takes the rig body line. These are trapped in to place with the beads and crimps etc, as before.

WHICH KNOTS
To connect the rig body line to the split rings or swivels, use the Uni Knot.

An alternative knot for tying hook lengths to the small rig swivels and hooks to the hook length is the tucked half blood knot.

The Uni Knot tied properly, has the loose tag end of line facing rearwards up the line which is more aerodynamic, jams less weed, and is less likely to burst soft baits and worms which need to be pushed up above the hook on to the hook length.

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