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Print versionBuying second hand tackle
Job security just isn't there for many people anymore, redundancies and closures tend to constantly fill our newspapers. Bills rise monthly and the price of motor fuel is a tax rip-off. In short, few people have spare money in their pockets. Angling is no different, and whilst the retail sector of the sport has done well to just about hold it's own over the past couple of years, the secondhand market has boomed.
To the inexperienced, buying secondhand tackle is a quick way to waste hard earned money, or end up the not so proud owner of stolen goods. However, with a little know-how of what to look for it can be a bargains bonanza. Here's how!
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The modern concept of making side plates from carbon composites has eliminated corrosion of the side plate itself but screws can still rust if not made from stainless steel. Have a look at the leading edge of carbon side plates for deep scratches that may indicate that the reel has hit the shingle at some time. If so, has the carbon cracked? Spools on quality reels will be made from alloy for strength and lightness, but they rot!
Distrust any reel that still has line loaded on the spool. Ask for it to be removed. Salt clinging to the line during retrieve is trapped under following layers of line and does a fine job eating in to the alloy spool. This shows up as tiny pits at first, but quickly escalates in to deep holes that can eventually send the spool off balance.
The spools edges are bound to have had the paint removed through odd bits of sand and the like getting between spool and frame. This is nothing to worry about, but discard any reels that show excessive wear and scoring at this point. Again, spool balance may be affected. Even worse, this may be an indicator that the reel frame is out of line and that the spool catches the frame when the spool revolves. This may not show up when the spool is turned by hand, but it will when the spool is cast on the beach.
A popular reel on the used market is the now defunct Daiwa 6HM. This had a reel frame that saw the seat itself fastened to the frame with rivets. These quickly rotted and the seat fell off. Check that these have not gone past the point of return. Likewise, some ABU's. These had the seat welded to the frame, but anglers intent on wriggling the reel free from the rod seat found that this eventually cracked the weld and the seat came away from the frame. Check the welds for strength.
Is the frame a converted one with the level wind replaced by a solid bar. Done professionally this is fine, if it's botched the frame and spool will be misaligned and kiss during casting. Check it!
Internally, the ends of the main gears should still be sharp edged. If these edges have been rounded off then I'd think again, though gears are available for reasonably recent reels if the rest of the reel warrants purchase. The little anti reverse pawl needs to be sharp ended too. Most will have some bluntness, but rule out any bad damage. Again, these are available as a spare part for modern quality reels.
The main drive stem (that's what the handle fits to on the outside)that meshes with the main gear may have wear or corrosion on the gear teeth itself or the threads that may run down the stem. Usually, the worst of the wear is on the spindle that takes the hollow drive stem. These can be scored through sand entering the system, or saltwater not being cleaned out, and lack of lubrication is the other one.
Drag washers are not a bad problem, but if the drag has been left fully tightened this will have flattened the washers and reduce their efficiency by at least 50%.
Corrosion on the inside of the side plates should be checked for, this will be of the same pitting pattern found on the spools.
If the owner was a poor caster he's probably used the spool tensioning nut on the side of the reel to control the spool. Done incorrectly this will have worn the ends of the spool spindle away. Look to see if the end of the spindle is worn flat. Most spindle ends have a slight dish scooped out of the ends. If this is intact, then the spindle is okay. If you're unsure put the reel back together and with the spool positioned dead middle in the frame check to see how much the spool will travel from side to side. If the nut will fully tighten but the spool still has that sideways movement, this indicates spindle wear, though it's worth checking to see if there are enough shims inside the end caps to correctly position the spool. Two or Three is normally right.
Fixed spools are less difficult to suss out. The overall appearance tells you a lot. If it's clean and relatively unscratched, then go further. If it's battered, scratched, and filthy don't progress with the purchase.
Check that the bale arm is fully functional and not corroded. The line roller on the bale arm should be free to turn as line is drawn over it. Spools may be alloy and can be pitted again, if they're carbon look for those cracks and gouges particularly on the spools edge that the line flows over.
Fixed spool gears are rarely a problem on a quality item, but cheap versions must be checked for rounding off. Pay attention to any scoring on the spindle where it fits out of view inside the main body. Lastly, is the handle corroded where it fits to the body. Often, these threads are eaten in to by salt.
Rods are far more straight forward. Any broken rod rings are obvious by a simple touch of a stout finger. Make sure that the inserts of the rings are as new and not cracked or been glued in with super glue. If they have you can't miss this shoddy repair. Tip rings may be scored by line but are cheap to replace.
See that the whipping is in good repair and that the varnish or high build finish is not cracked indicating that the rod has been dropped at some time. Go over the whole blank looking for deep scratches that have penetrated the protective coating and exposed bare glass strands. Odd chips are inevitable, deep gouges show carelessness.
The joint between butt and tip should fit snugly. If you hold your hand over the join and the flex the rod you will feel a "knock". This indicates wear and movement between the fit. Rods with a butt reducer should also be checked at this point for wear.
Carbon reel seats are rarely a problem and will not corrode. Cheaper models with metal reel seats need checking for corrosion, especially on the threads. Hand grips may have holes in them and be unsightly. This can bring the price down if you point it out. Rods without reel seats should have a pair of coaster clamps with it. These corrode on the threads again and spot welds on the stainless clamp itself can shear.
A useful guide to follow is to never pay more than 50% of the items original cost. Only if a reel was in as new condition with it's original box would I consider paying more. Most off-the-shelf rods would be dealt with the same. However, a real quality pole like a Zziplex that has had a good owner tends to keep between 50% and 75% of it's original value.
Regards stolen goods, you're fairly safe buying from a private address, all the better if you know of the angler in the first place and have an idea of the gear in questions case history. Some retail shops have a secondhand shelf and you're unlikely to hit difficulties here.
Beware though car boot sales, pawn shops, secondhand shops in the seedier parts of town, and people in pubs. A bona fide receipt helps, mostly such sources just laugh at you. Stories of "fly by nights" walking a match length or beach trying to sell tackle are true. Maybe they're genuine, but I doubt it. Leave well alone! One day market stalls should also be distrusted, but regular stall holders should be okay!
Some of the best bargains are to be had when somebody decides to give up the sport completely. A full outfit of rods, reels, and tackle boxes with accompanied gear can go for as little as £200 to £300. Replacement cost would probably exceed £600 to as much as £1000 depending on the quality of the items. Remember too, that if some of the gear is no good to you, you may be able to pass it on to someone else at a profit, or do a swap.
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