Turning a FS Rod into a Multi Rod.
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Turning a FS Rod into a Multi Rod.

Discussion in 'Tackle & Equipment Discussions' started by Wildbrownie, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. Wildbrownie

    Wildbrownie Member

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    I bought a cheap Daiwa rod in October as my first beachcaster rod to see if I would like sea fishing. After only 3 trips the rings chipped and cracked. Had no luck convincing the retailer or Daiwa that the rod is 3 months old and still under warranty. The retailer said he will repair the rod at my expense and Daiwa said to send it back for their Technicians to take a look. The retailer I told "If i wanted rings put on it I could do it myself" and by the way it shouldn't cost me anything, its still under warranty, Daiwa I told that if they gave me a freepost address I would be happy to send it back if they put better rings on it.

    After that rant......

    My question is:
    Could I take the broken fixed spool rings off and turn the cheap Daiwa rod into a usable Multiplier rod with a set of Multi fuji rings?

    A belated Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to everyone.

    Moved house 15th Dec, just got my internet connected

    Ian
     
  2. justjay

    justjay Member

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    No reason why not, which daiwa is it?

    Things you'd have to bare in mind are locating the spine and the correct side to affix multi guides. Then work out the guide spacings, not too difficult usually tbh. Might need to weigh up if it's worth doing financially for you though, say if you spend more rebuilding it than it cost, is it worth it? Although only you can answer that as if you get on with the rod then :thumbup: hope that made sense! Lol
     
  3. Wildbrownie

    Wildbrownie Member

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    It is a Daiwa Surf S 13ft 3 piece rod. I was going to use the 13ft Multi rod I have as a guide to the ring spacings.
     
  4. justjay

    justjay Member

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    I can't comment on it 100% as im not familiar with that one properly or with 3 piece rods, but shouldn't be a major issue I'd think.

    You can use them as a guide then fine tune them after, I'm assuming you are quite ok doing that anyway? The main thing to consider when working out the spacings is making sure there's no "bridging" between the guides and the line doesn't touch the blank when there's a bend in the rod
     
  5. Wildbrownie

    Wildbrownie Member

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    I have built a 6ft 2wt 4piece fly rod, that was a delicate job. A beachcaster rod is a beast of a rod compared to the fly rod, so putting the guides on won't be a problem. My biggest problem is I am not a sea fisherman with a vast experience of rods and how they bend etc. I have watched some casting videos to see the difference between casting a FS and casting a Multiplier. I am going to remove the rings and try and remove the reel seat, I know where the bend is but which way is the bend on a multiplier rod? is it the opposite way to a FS rod. What I mean is are the guides on the opposite side of the blank on a multiplier rod.
    Thanks for your advice

    Regards
    Ian
     
  6. abu1

    abu1 Member

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    one word yes
     
  7. springwell

    springwell Guest

    Ian,

    If you are re ringing for a multiplier the rings should go on the opposite side from where they are now, that is if they have been positioned in relation to the spine. I doubt if many of the mass produced cheaper rods are checked for the spine during manufacture, but they might be.

    If you can find similar rings it will save you money from buying a full set. Have a look of some of the rod building suppliers sites, they sell full sets of rings which give the sizes they supply in the set.

    I don't know the rod but the reel seat will need replacing, for multipliers the reel threads point towards the tip, for fixed spools towards the butt or just use coasters or a sliding grip.

    If you remove the reel seat you are getting into more expense, new reel seat, shrinktube etc. Why not just leave the reel seat on and make do, spine position won't make much difference on the butt section.

    As you'll need more rings for a multi the blank will need rubbing down and recoating when you remove the rings as ring spacing wll be different..... good luck.
     
  8. Wildbrownie

    Wildbrownie Member

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    Hi Springwell. I have a full set of Multiplier Fuji rings given to me. I will check the spine position before starting the project. I have a Daiwa Sl20SH that came with a built in coaster with 2 screws to fit any rod, but you are right there is no need to remove the reel seat. In my head I was thinking I had to turn it arround, not thinking the the butt section can be placed in any position. It may seem like a waist of money but I hate throwing anything away when it can be made into a better item than it was when it came of the chineese production line.

    Thanks
    Ian
     
  9. springwell

    springwell Guest

    Ian,

    Be careful if you intend just to use the reel clamp on its own on the blank, its not quite the same as a pair of coasters and could damage the blank, more so if the blank is not designed for or capable of taking coasters.

    OK to use in conjunction with the fixed reel seat, I never do though.
     
  10. Wildbrownie

    Wildbrownie Member

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    Thanks Springwell, I will get a pair of coasters.

    Regards
    Ian
     
  11. christy27

    christy27 Member

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    Hi Ian,

    I'll drop my Pac Bay hand rod wrapper in tomorrow on my travels if you want. Just leave a bin/box outside if no one in :thumbs:.

    Chris.
     
  12. prettypictures

    prettypictures Member

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    I would strip the rod of it's ancillaries and prepare back to the blank, to determine the spine just rotate the blank with both hands supporting the blank about halfway down; you will find at some stage the blank will "kick" ergo you have found the spine! The late great Mike McManus of Conoflex fame used to mark his blanks where the spine was located; he even used to mark the location as to where the tip should meet the butt so that the spine ran true from tip to end.

    Careful with coasters, they aren't so easy to use with F/S reels and you may prefer a reel seat; usually a reel seat will flex with the blank to a degree however coasters can cause a local stress in your butt and I am sure that you wouldn't want your butt stressed! If you must use coasters add a layer of shrink tube.

    Although f/s rings tend to be larger and fewer many aeons ago in my casting days by experiment we found that over grass there was no discernible difference in distance cast using a f/s reel with small rings for multiplier or large for f/s.

    Peter.
     
  13. guerrilla distilla

    guerrilla distilla Member

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    you need to look at how much it's going to cost you to rebuild VS buying a new rod.

    if you're rebuilding, at the very least you'll need -

    new set of rings £30 minimum for a decent set that wont fall apart after a few months,
    thread at £5-7 a reel (if you're doing trim rings you'll need two spools),
    epoxy finish, at least £10 for a small syringe kit,
    shrink tube for grips around £10,
    and, if you decide on it, a reel seat. fuji ones cost £10 or less.

    with p&p, you're looking around £70 for the very basic materials

    unfortunately, you cant just throw on some new rings, as they will need to be switched to the other side of the blank. this also means that the reel seat will need replacing, as well as any grips. i had a friend come to me a while back, to do the same thing with his shakespeare salt fs, but i shown him the price of the parts (i dont take any payment and they just buy the components themselves and i build it for them, unless it's in the form of a good bottle of whisky:drunk:), and he decided to just buy a new multiplier version salt instead.

    you could re-ring your fixed spool and use it as a second rod, or a backup, and buy yourself a new multiplier.
     
  14. Wildbrownie

    Wildbrownie Member

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    Hi GD,
    Thanks for the info on prices, I have most of the equipment and material from building fly rods. I wasn't to worried about the cost between a new rod and a re-build it was going to be more of a project.
    Epoxy I buy from a cane rod builder called David Norris its a £5 for an A and B pot enough to do 2 rods. I have red and green whipping thread from my last project so will probably use the green. The fuji rings are £18 for a set but a good friend of mine gave me a set of multiplier rings he had spare. So its just the rest of the bits n bobs.

    Peter: The move went great, still living out of suitcases while we wait for wardrobes to be delivered. If you tape a piece of masking tape at each end of the blank section, then place the thin end of the blank in your open palm and the thicker end on a hard surface, when it kicks mark a line on the pieces of masking tape you will have the spine. Repeat for the other sections so that when the rod is put together the spine will line up. That is the way the still living great Ian Brown of Winchmore Hill fame does it lol...

    Chris: Thanks for the rod wrapper, I will get the new motor, my last one blew up. You will love Hythe, easy walking from car. Ring you later

    Thanks all for your advice
    Ian
     

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