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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, so my saga still continues.

Tow for 60 miles and all is well.

Launch and recover with the trailer wheels fully submerged on both occasions as its a shallow beach.

50 miles from home and the squeal starts, gently at first and rising to a high squeal as I approach home.

All of this is only on a left hand to almost slightly left turn.

Now,

At first I thought that touching my brakes took it away but I cannot be sure. Keep in mind that the hubs and bearings were replaced and this was the 2nd outing (240 miles travelled) on a 31k mile Austin Metro bearing(s).

I am sure that the bearings are properly tightened, secured, and greased.

The stub was NOT damaged in the accident when the wheel flew off but the high pitched squeal is definately coming from the offside.

Now for the interesting part. When I reverse the car whilst the brakes are dry and I brake, it squeals. Dust, anyone? metal on metal? Hmm they were replaced but never been in water.

Is it suspected that my rear, offside brake on the car can cause problems when loaded with the boat and squeal when steering to the left?

No squeal when the car is unladen.

Just to be sure, its going to Kwik Fit tomorrow,:hammer:
 
G

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Puddles, give us a bit of help, like:

a) Is your trailer braked or not?
b) If it is braked, are they Knot auto-reverse release brakes (which don't normally last more than one trip before causing problems) or AP/Girling/Dunlop with a manual reverse lock on the hitch braking mechanism?
c) Was it fresh or salt water on the last trip, and were the wheels flushed in fresh, if it was salt?

Please - we'd be happy to advise.
 
G

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Also, what brakes are on the towing vehicle: Discs all round, or discs front, drums rear, and if rear drums, what manufacturer? (This last is not absolutely necessary - but some are worse for this than others).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry.

Ford Mondeo 2006

Non braked trailer

Salt water

Molybdenum grease in bearings and regreased after every outing by packing beside and around the casselated nut.

Approx 5ml of water exits the hub after removing the centre shroud.

Alco "gives cuddles"

Sorry I didnt wash my car tyre wheels as they didnt make it into the water.
 

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Hi guys, so my saga still continues.



Now for the interesting part. When I reverse the car whilst the brakes are dry and I brake, it squeals. Dust, anyone? metal on metal? Hmm they were replaced but never been in water.

Is it suspected that my rear, offside brake on the car can cause problems when loaded with the boat and squeal when steering to the left?

No squeal when the car is unladen.

Just to be sure, its going to Kwik Fit tomorrow,:hammer:
Had similar on a 405 I once owned when towing the Caravan. The brake cable to the rear wheel of the car was too tightly adjusted. When the the caravan weight pushed the rear of the car down the brake cable tightened causing the shoes to just touch the drum. Loose dust in there set of a squealing noise. Loosening the cable slightly sorted it out. It might be worth looking at that in your motor?
 

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How old are the Alco bearings now, they normally start to give problems after 2-3 years, yours may be slightly longer lived as you say you get as much grease as you can into them, anything over 3 years in your case I would replace the bearings first.

If you still have the same grief after I would look at the vehicle brakes, not the end of the world there is a reasonably cheep potential fix for them too.

The Alco bearing kits are sized on the outside diameter of the drum so go to your bearing stockist with that measurement, they are becoming widely available and at a fraction of the price of the OEM if you have the tools to replace them yourself.
 

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Why not put the trailer onto a mates car and see if the problem disappears?!?! If its still there its the trailer, if not, its the car!!!:laugh::laugh::laugh::victory:
 

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Molybdenum grease in bearings and regreased after every outing by packing beside and around the casselated nut.

Approx 5ml of water exits the hub after removing the centre shroud.
You recently had bearings replaced if I remember right.

Do these bearings/hubs have a water seal? Just a simple rubber ring at back of bearing/hub (bit like an 'O' ring)

This is built into hubs that may get dunked but is not standard on all hubs. It is not particularly effective but much reduces the amount of water that enters the bearing.

Without that seal you will have saltwater destroying your bearing lube every time you launch. By the time you have finished fishing and given the trailer another dunking the grease will hardly be up for a long drive home.

I have had a few homemade trailers over the years. Invariably I have found the bearings/hubs to be unsuitable for a boat trailer.

If your hubs have no seal or a damaged seal you really need to use a grease gun a couple of times each trip. Just push enough grease in to limit water ingress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I now have Kwik Fit arguing about the problem.

But firstly, when the newish hubs came from the Scrappie, I ordered new seals and have them on the hubs. Around 5ml of water came out after removing the front cover plate.

There are no grease nipples but can the hub be drilled and fitted with them?

Indespension are offering me a new Rollercoaster for £1.2k and I dont have the cash:doh:

So, The manager at KF says I have tapered bearings and to leave them "loose, a nip to loosen from tight" but his mate says he's talking BS as my bearings are straight and need to be horsed up. Then the Manager back-pedals and agrees that they are not tapered.

Now I too was led to believe that I have straight bearings and that they need horsed up so now we have another problem.

Inside the hub, both bearing cases sit back to back and KF think that there should be at least a 1/2 gap between them. He thinks they have collapsed but cannot be sure. An old wheel in the backshop was checked and my bearings are identical in layout (back to back)

The boat is going in first thing Saturday morning and they can strip them again to resolve the disagreement.

Aghhhhhh and tyres!!! Thats another sore point as everyone thinks the wheel diameter is 13.5 inches and not a standard 13". I cant even get new tyres.
 

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Aghhhhhh and tyres!!! Thats another sore point as everyone thinks the wheel diameter is 13.5 inches and not a standard 13". I cant even get new tyres.
Assuming you have old tyres on the wheels at the moment - the size should be clearly marked on the tyres, so there should be no doubt about what diameter wheels you have. Get proper trailer tyres with stronger sidewalls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Assuming you have old tyres on the wheels at the moment - the size should be clearly marked on the tyres, so there should be no doubt about what diameter wheels you have. Get proper trailer tyres with stronger sidewalls.
It is clearly marked, 165x65x135 73s

The 135 part is the problem.

Proper trailer tyres means £180 for new hubs, bearing, wheels and tyres.

Who said boating was cheap:doh:
 

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What car are the wheels from? (sounds too large for a Metro - I'm sure they were nearer to a 12" diameter) - there must be other cars with the same PCD but the more usual 13" diameter - perhaps another model from the same manufacturer - where you could pick up a couple of wheels from a scrappy and thus facilitate the fitting of a common tyre size.

But I must admit, I'd be tempted to do as Paul suggests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'd put new hubs, wheels and tyres on, made for the job, and be done with it.

I have sat looking at You-tube and the videos of bad bearings and mine come no-where near the ones on there.

If I were to use an Indespension package is there still any guarantee that the noise will definitely go away?

The axle is only around 12"of mild steel with an offset stub. I would like to know where that came from.

Someone have a look at this and tell me if this is the correct way forward by changing everything.
New axle complete with everything

But you are correct Paul and safety is everything, especially in my world.

Looks like Visa can take a hit. I am sure the missus will understand my concerns.
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Confirmed that rear brakes need replaced.

Then its £200 for the trailer.
 
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