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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,

My last multi was a Penn Beachmaster, thought I'd try something a newer!

My brand new Mag Elite CT turned up today from Tony's Tackle, so I checked the site to find set up help and found this thread:

http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46961&highlight=tuning

Great! Also found this schematic:

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Ambassadeur,%20Cardinal/Ambassadeur%206500C3%20CT%20Mag%2009%2000.pdf

My reel didn't have the brake blocks in the plastic bag, and it doesn't seem to have the brake block assembly 22567 at all - instead it has a completely different assembly, with a part number that ends 6727 (can't read the rest).

The schematic that came with the reel is numbered 1014317.

Anyone know anything about this - I don't even know if this reel has brake blocks!

The manual really isn't much use.

Any help would be really appreciated!

Cheers,

Neil
 

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If it's got Mag brakes, you don't need to worry about centrifugal brake blocks. 4 mags is more than enough.

It sounds like you may have the new centrifugal brake assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Penetrator- it's got 4 mag brakes alright. Guess it would just be nice to know what is in it - you know, new reel and all that!
:unsure:
 

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Hi Folks,

My last multi was a Penn Beachmaster, thought I'd try something a newer!

My brand new Mag Elite CT turned up today from Tony's Tackle, so I checked the site to find set up help and found this thread:

http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46961&highlight=tuning

Great! Also found this schematic:

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Ambassadeur,%20Cardinal/Ambassadeur%206500C3%20CT%20Mag%2009%2000.pdf

My reel didn't have the brake blocks in the plastic bag, and it doesn't seem to have the brake block assembly 22567 at all - instead it has a completely different assembly, with a part number that ends 6727 (can't read the rest).

The schematic that came with the reel is numbered 1014317.

Anyone know anything about this - I don't even know if this reel has brake blocks!

The manual really isn't much use.

Any help would be really appreciated!

Cheers,

Neil
The ABU manuals, like other reel manufacturers' are next to useless. If it's a Mag Elite it WILL have brake blocks. On the newer reels these are not seperate, fibre ones. They are plastic and are already fitted to the spindle pins. These need to be activated - you just gently pull them away from the spindle until they click.

Brake blocks ought to be used - that is what the manufacturers put them in for! If you don't then you're not using the reel to its best advantage.

Proper setup will depend on your casting ability and weight you cast with as well as fishing conditions.

Basic tuning is best done with the brake blocks. You will have to experiment but under normal fishing conditions (i.e., not casting into headwinds) you should use enough brake blocks so that the reel does not backlash with the mag settings on halfway. Personally, I find I need only two blocks to be activated when casting 5oz leads. This will allow some leeway for using different leads of for casting into head or tail winds by adjusting the mag brakes which. of course, you can do without taking the reel apart.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,

John
 

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One of the selling points was that they had both as the braking effect is different. Bit sad if they have thrown that away.

On set up of ultra cast spools it's really odd that lots of people don't seem to realise that the end cap friction brake can be used. I wouldn't be inclined to take "factory set" too literally either. It may have been. Assuming the basics are the same as last year here is what you need to do.

Starting with the end caps. The end caps can be used to centralise the spool. The catch to the process is that there is a spring arrangement on one end of the spool spindle normally on the end under the handle. Your schematic will show it. It's a round thing that clips on the end of the spindle. Press the spool firmly that way and you will feel the spool move. Slightly more of the spool rim should show on that side. So slacken the other side off and get that right 1st. Then slowly tighten the one you have loosened (the adjustment knob) till only a tiny amount of free play remains. That's easy free play doesn't include the movement against the spring under firmer pressure. You now have the ultimate in free running spools without changing bearings and messing with the lubricant in them. Set the scale on the a adjustment knob to zero at that setting. If there is no movement against the spring it generally means that it isn't located correctly - unlikely on a new reel but easily done messing about especially by unscrewing the cap. Take the cap off and press the disc spring into place dished side towards the end cap. They have been known to use both metal and plastic bits for the spring. Plastic seems best to me but they must have their own reasons for changing.

You can use the end cap for addition braking but a little goes a long way. New users may find the reel a little less of a handful if they carefully remove all of the end play and then turn the cap 1 or 2 divisions further. If there isn't a scale on the reel that's only about 1/16 to an 1/8 of a turn. It's extremely important that the spool can still be moved towards the spring under firm pressure. This adjustment helps a lot with over run when the lead hits the water and with jerky casts. Some have also used it to tame the reel at the start of a cast and slackened it off once it's running properly. Hence the scale.
When you cast for the 1st time with the reel use full mag brakes. That should tame any cast. Cast a few time 1/2 ing the setting each time watching the spool carefully even at the start of the cast. If the line starts to loop up off the spool gently apply your thumb. It only needs a very gentle touch if the reel is only a little short of the braking it needs for your cast. Once you get to that point put more mag brake on and hopefully all will be ok from then on. You will find the reel will loosen up with use though so always take some care till you are very used to it.

Birds nests are often caused by casting to hard and jerky casts. The best way
to get rid of one - you will have to at some point is to put the lead somewhere and walk away from it as you pull line off the reel.
You can also reduce the mag brake while the cast is in progress but do remember to put it back on for the next cast.

Hope this helps. Me thinks that going on the reel you did use you wont have much trouble but lots do.

John
 

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i dont recommend putting any end pressure on any reels,this shortens the life of the reels internals drastically.
if you use a combination of magnets and blocks there is never any need to put any end tension on a reel, unless your casting style is carp
 
G

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i dont recommend putting any end pressure on any reels,this shortens the life of the reels internals drastically.
if you use a combination of magnets and blocks there is never any need to put any end tension on a reel, unless your casting style is carp

:clap3: :clap3: :clap3: :clap3: :clap3: :clap3:
 

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basically the blocks are for the first part (20% ish) of the cast (going from a stationary spool to the fastest spinning spool).

and the mags and thickness of oil are for the rest (last 80% ish) of the cast.

if the blocks are used correctly you can have the reel running faster for the latter part of the cast but slow enough so you don't crack off. you must have the new block system with 4 or 5 blocks in, these should be fitted from the factory. i haven't stripped one yet so can't comment, but the reel specialist the shop uses says they don't move by hand like the old ones but work during the cast, don't ask me how.
 

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A small amount of end pressure applied as described won't hurt the reel at all. It's there to be used.

(I haven't fished for carp for over 30 years :) )

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The ABU manuals, like other reel manufacturers' are next to useless. If it's a Mag Elite it WILL have brake blocks. On the newer reels these are not seperate, fibre ones. They are plastic and are already fitted to the spindle pins. These need to be activated - you just gently pull them away from the spindle until they click.

Brake blocks ought to be used - that is what the manufacturers put them in for! If you don't then you're not using the reel to its best advantage.

Proper setup will depend on your casting ability and weight you cast with as well as fishing conditions.

Basic tuning is best done with the brake blocks. You will have to experiment but under normal fishing conditions (i.e., not casting into headwinds) you should use enough brake blocks so that the reel does not backlash with the mag settings on halfway. Personally, I find I need only two blocks to be activated when casting 5oz leads. This will allow some leeway for using different leads of for casting into head or tail winds by adjusting the mag brakes which. of course, you can do without taking the reel apart.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,

John
Thanks John for that. It seems I do have the newer version, there are six inactivated plastic brake blocks on spindle pins. I can hardly believe there is absolutely no mention anywhere in the manual of these and their adjustment, sorry but I need to rant a bit:yucky: :yucky:

Ok, better now.

So to activate them I pull them away from the splindle, right?

The more I activate, the more braking effect is created?

How many should I start with, perhaps 4, I can at least get them symmetrical, does that make a difference?

Cheers,

Neil
 

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:secret: on the spool is a star of six plastic brakes which to use u simply pull out to make them float , these are done like this so you can decide how many brakes to use and clip back when necessary. Yes i found by accident when tinkering.:clap2:
 

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The end tension system on these reels was only designed to be used when casting lures on freshwater lakes in Sweden, etc., in order to stop the reel from overrunning when the lure hit the water - not to control the spool during the cast, which is the job of the brakes. It was never intended to be used when casting 5-6oz weights. With the velocities thus generated it is ineffective for the purpose for which it was designed. Moreover, the friction generated will soon wear out the bearings and, as has already been pointed out, perhaps do more damage to the internals.

In addition to the centrifugal brakes and the mags, line level affects reel control. Do not overfill your reel but let the mainline sans leader come to within 2-3mm of the lip of the spool. Then there is lubrication - thicker oil will make the reel run slower and vice versa, but you really ought to be able to control a Mag Elite with just the former. If not then the problem lies with the style of casting.

The beauty of these reels (like the Supermag Xtras) is that they offer enough control for an absolute beginner but alow for development as well as different leads/conditions.

I just wish ABU would enclose instruction leaflets aimed at the specific market to which they sell their reels. 'Dual Control', meaning end tension plus brake blocks/magnets is absolute rubbish as far as UK beach fishing is concerned. They are misleading their customers by advertising this on the boxes and in the instruction leaflets.

Check out this site for some expert tuning advice:

http://neilmackellow.sea-angler.org/reel_tuning.html

Cheers,

John
 

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Thanks John for that. It seems I do have the newer version, there are six inactivated plastic brake blocks on spindle pins. I can hardly believe there is absolutely no mention anywhere in the manual of these and their adjustment, sorry but I need to rant a bit:yucky: :yucky:

Ok, better now.

So to activate them I pull them away from the splindle, right?

The more I activate, the more braking effect is created?

How many should I start with, perhaps 4, I can at least get them symmetrical, does that make a difference?

Cheers,

Neil
I noticed this post after I'd posted my last one.

Yes, the more you activate the more breaking effect is created. They do not need to be symmetrical - you can have an odd number activated. I'd recomment putting the mags onto a midway setting and start with all of the bocks activated. The reel will probabaly run slow. Start deactivating the blocks one by one until it casts well.

When setting mine up I kept deactivating them one at a time until the a slight overrun occurred. I then reactivated the last block and this gave me the oprimum setting. It's a pain but it pays to get it right and once done it's done.

I'm glad my post was of some help.

Cheers,

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm a bit unsure about the lateral spool adjustment. There does seem quite a lot of side to side play - I'm used to less and I don't want to use this as an additional brake, but I'm really unsure of how I'm supposed to adjust it. There are two adjusting nuts (that I haven't moved yet!), it's not obvious to me how they should be adjusted together, particularly as one has graduations and the other doesn't.
This is really a bit confusing!

Thanks for all your help so far!

Cheers,

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm curious are the brake blocks all plastic or all fibre or do they have some metal behind them?

John
There are 6 clear plastic blocks, each sitting on it's own arm - when activated they float, creating centrifugal drag when spun & slowing the spool I guess.
 

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I'm a bit unsure about the lateral spool adjustment. There does seem quite a lot of side to side play - I'm used to less and I don't want to use this as an additional brake, but I'm really unsure of how I'm supposed to adjust it. There are two adjusting nuts (that I haven't moved yet!), it's not obvious to me how they should be adjusted together, particularly as one has graduations and the other doesn't.
This is really a bit confusing!

Thanks for all your help so far!

Cheers,

Neil
There are two adjustment knobs to allow for centralising of the spool. This will have been done at the factory, so you only need to adjust the one on the end plate, or the one with the gradadtions (which you can ignore as you won't be using it as an additional brake). The side-to-side play only needs to be slight, though the exact amount isn't supercritical as long as it doesn't feel sloppy. I just keep adjusting mine a little at a time until the end play stops and then turn it back again by the same amount.

Cheers,

John
 

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exactly mate. as for the 2 knob thing i use them to centrualise the spool, and leaving it with a tiny bit of movement. the graduation thing has always baffled me, but i've never used them numbers and my reels are fine. just don't over tighten the spool otherwise the bearings will wear quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There are two adjustment knobs to allow for centralising of the spool. This will have been done at the factory, so you only need to adjust the one on the end plate, or the one with the gradadtions (which you can ignore as you won't be using it as an additional brake). The side-to-side play only needs to be slight, though the exact amount isn't supercritical as long as it doesn't feel sloppy. I just keep adjusting mine a little at a time until the end play stops and then turn it back again by the same amount.

Cheers,

John

Sorry to harp on about this. I tried adjusting the lateral slack by using just the graduated knob - it works, but the spool is no longer centralised, it ain't much, but it isn't central. I guess to fine tune the lateral slack I do need to use both knobs.

Ok, so I've got ALL the centrifugal brakes on, I'm leaving the factory red rocket fuel (that is factory set?), I'll fill to within 2mm with 14lb mono & tapered leader & have the mags ALL on - Hmmmm, be a miracle if I get 50 yards with that!

Thanks for all the help guys!


WATCH OUT FISH!

Cheers,

Neil
 

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Sorry to harp on about this. I tried adjusting the lateral slack by using just the graduated knob - it works, but the spool is no longer centralised, it ain't much, but it isn't central. I guess to fine tune the lateral slack I do need to use both knobs.

Ok, so I've got ALL the centrifugal brakes on, I'm leaving the factory red rocket fuel (that is factory set?), I'll fill to within 2mm with 14lb mono & tapered leader & have the mags ALL on - Hmmmm, be a miracle if I get 50 yards with that!

Thanks for all the help guys!


WATCH OUT FISH!

Cheers,

Neil

I didn't say leave all the mags on - just set them halfway then gradually tune things by reducing the number of brake blocks. It most likely WILL be too slow, but it's better to start that way than too fast and risk a birds nest.
 
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