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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi
just need a bit of advice here, i am putting the strikeliner on the mooring in the spring (too late for this year due to family illness),
all the ground gear is new and ready to go, anchors, ground chain, riser and bouy, now, as it is a swinging/drying mooring i was advised to use 3 strand nylon 24mm for the mooring line to the bouy, got it, soft eye (spliced loop) at one end, stainless thimble on the other end to shackle to the riser.
now, when i put the loop over the foredeck cleat there is no room to coil the rope around the cleat as it is so thick, it has been suggested that i splice a smaller rope into the 24mm and to put a couple of figure of eights and hitches on top of the cleat after the loop is on, to lock the whole thing in place.
is this the way to go, as a new cleat big enough to coil 24mm rope would be enormous.
also, any ideas on anti-chaffing cover for the rope, i thought of rubber radiator hose, but would think many of you are much more experienced in this field than me.
any advice would be be very welcome.
 

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hi andy
i live on anglesey myself. one item you have not listed for you mooring is a swivel. this is important to stop the chain from tangling and shortening the chain and pulling the boat down
most boats are not fitted out for use on a mooring on my boat i had to change the bow rooler fit a samson post and add more cleats. my boat is moored in the straits if i were you i would fit a small samson post and reinforce under the deck with ply wood or stainless steel and bolt the whole lot together,rubber or plastic hose is fine to protect your boat from the chain ,check your insurance for use on a mooring my insurance will only allow a mooring contractor to do the mooring
its better to be safe than sorry witha boat on a mooring...
 

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On my mooring (which is fore and aft, so not such a heavy rope on the bow and I can tie it off rather than just drop an eye over it) - I have a thinner line spliced into the main line about 3ft from the end. The 3ft bit of the main line is enough to tie off - and the thinner line is attached to the pick up buoy. When the boat is on the mooring the buoy is kept in the anchor hatch with the thinner line passing through the hole meant for the anchor line. Should the main line come adrift (more likely to be kids messing about in my case) the pickup buoy being inside the anchor hatch (which is locked) would prevent the front line coming completely detached from the boat - this may well work as the 'safety net' for you too.

I'd also agree that a sampson post is better for a mooring rope than a cleat.
 

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hi i have my strikeliner on a swinging mooring and i fitted a stainless sampson post to mine as suggested bedded on sikaflex with a ply plate under the deck . i also fitted a stainless swivel below the buoy to attach my mooring rope which is a braided rope so that if the swivel jams the rope cannot untwist and weaken . also where we moor we have a second rope from the swivel with a stainless snaplink which is connected to the winch eye on the bow .just connect and disconect when in the dingy going or coming,if you know what i mean
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks guys

i have changed the cleat on the foredeck to a 8" stainless job, through the underdeck reinforcement board to a 9 x 3 steel plate washer to spread the load even more.
got the big swivel for the riser, but there seems to be many views as to where to put it, under the bouy or at the bottom of the riser.
i've spliced all my soft eyes, just got one big thimble to splice in the big 24mm nylon. and the hose is on it's way for the anti-chaffing.
just counting down the days til next spring, get the gear on the seabed, and lookout mr bass. i spoke to the chandler and they say the cleat is designed for mooring not just anchoring and is much more sustantial than the original one. i've attached a pic.

Bumper Door handle Automotive exterior Metal
 

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thanks guys

i have changed the cleat on the foredeck to a 8" stainless job, through the underdeck reinforcement board to a 9 x 3 steel plate washer to spread the load even more.
got the big swivel for the riser, but there seems to be many views as to where to put it, under the bouy or at the bottom of the riser.
i've spliced all my soft eyes, just got one big thimble to splice in the big 24mm nylon. and the hose is on it's way for the anti-chaffing.
just counting down the days til next spring, get the gear on the seabed, and lookout mr bass. i spoke to the chandler and they say the cleat is designed for mooring not just anchoring and is much more sustantial than the original one. i've attached a pic.

View attachment 57312
looks like a good strong cleat as you say its made for mooring work.

as for the swivel mine is 2 metres below the mooring bouy.. whats more important is you have one fitted , i have seen boats go down due to lack of a swivel.. hope you start fishing soon ,some good bass about the anglesey coast just waiting for you.....
 
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