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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I admit it !!!! Got the boat perfect for her first launch in 07 (weather ooooo sooooo fine) which included a trickle charge - never needed it before but I thought what the hell she hasn't been started in a few months. Anyway I was all set with battery reinstalled but I didn't get a beep when I turned the ignition on - turned key further and got a very dull chugging from starter motor. Sh.. I thought battery flat despite trickle charge so tried to "jump" it from the wife’s car - she didn't want to as she says it frightens her - well it bloody well did this time as I had connected my battery up the back to front so we had my pos to her neg if you see what I mean - almighty pop and flash followed by expletives that I thought she didn't know !!!. Realised my mistake and re connected battery the right way round after wondering how I did it in the first place !!!!.. Engine beeped on ignition and fired first flick after many months. Thank god I thought - no damage done - engine mariner 90 optimax with loads of hideously expensive electronic bits !!!. Did a check of everything and found in line fuse to the radio had popped so I replaced that and all was fine - the radio fuse may have been something else? Launched the next day and engine fired instantly and of we went -- problem was I kept getting low voltage warning from sat nav every time I used the power trim. Normally the volt meter reads about 12.5 13 volts but yesterday it read 11.9 and falling - dropped to 11.5 by the time we got back and I know the engine wont operate below 11.. HELP what have I done ???? Checked all fuses in the engine and their ok - have I blown a cell in the battery or buggered the alternator on the engine – can I check the alternator output - any tips advice gratefully received as I have already used my BOAT acronym this year - that’s Bring Over Another Thousand!!!! many thanks in anticipation

Pout - wouldn't poison my cat with them
 

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Simple test is to connect a volt meter accross the batery terminals and take a reading, anything less than 12.5 volts battery is flat. Start the engine and see if the voltage rises. Should go up to around 13.8 to 14.6 volts depending on the output of the regulator.

If no rise in voltage then there is no output from the alternator and I would suspect the regulator has blown!

Dave
:g:
 

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Simple test is to connect a volt meter accross the batery terminals and take a reading, anything less than 12.5 volts battery is flat. Start the engine and see if the voltage rises. Should go up to around 13.8 to 14.6 volts depending on the output of the regulator.

If no rise in voltage then there is no output from the alternator and I would suspect the regulator has blown!

Dave
:g:
:clap3: Spot on Dave
 

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Yep. I'd suspect a blown regulator anyway-you won't get a low voltage warning with the engine running if it's charging properly unless the battery is so dead that it's shorting directly across most of the plates.

Be careful. If the rectifier is blown you may be putting AC across your instruments. They won't like it.
 

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Yep. I'd suspect a blown regulator anyway-you won't get a low voltage warning with the engine running if it's charging properly unless the battery is so dead that it's shorting directly across most of the plates.

Be careful. If the rectifier is blown you may be putting AC across your instruments. They won't like it.
But then the engine won't start....
 

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kveite said:
But then the engine won't start....
Good point-I missed that it started next day.
Rectifier/regulator unit is dead then and it restarted on the remains of the charge put in during the jump start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys for all your help ---- would it be possible to start the engine, remove the battery and then test across the the leads to see what output the alternator is giving ?

many thanks


pout........ illigitimi !!!!!!!!!!!
 

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NO!!!!!! Don't do that whatever you do-if by some miracle the charging system's OK running it open circuit like that will frag the regulator and can cause the alternator to overheat.

Put a charged battery on it. Blip the throttle to 2000 rpm. Voltmeter should rise and fall-maxing out at approx 13.8 to 14.5v volts. As long as it does something resembling this then charging system is OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Once agian invaluable advice - many many thanks - i'll have a go later on

despite what looks like total ignorance i'm normally pretty handy - if i need a new voltage reg. where's the best place to order from ?


Kind regards

Pout Man


pout... could there be anything worse ?
 

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Mariner dealer-I'm not sure what the outputs on an Opti voltage regulator are and it may power up things directly from it.
 

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Warning

If you have a twin battery set up or intend to put one on, make sure you get a change over switch that allows you to switch battery to battery WITHOUT disconnecting the battery it is coming off with the engine still running. Otherwise it will fry your regulator again!
Some change over switches state that the engine must be OFF when switching batteries.
Thought I would mention it in case you add a second battery at some time. Might save some ££££££'s

Dave
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
To all who so kindly replied ---- popped into my freindy boat repairer and after teeling him my tale of greif he suggested it was the Fuseable link between the alternator and the battery - apparentlyafter 1995 the optimax was fitted with this link (100 amp fuse) as well as a little electronic pack underneeath it that effectively blows if it senses reverse polarity. Put in top stop idiots like me I guess. Anyway did a continuity test on it and its buggered so ordered a new one. 60 pounds wasted but its better than a new alternator or ECU - 2.0 K !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
have replied so that it can go into thh already huge knowedge pool on this forum
Hopefully i'll be out next week now :) :)

Pout man

Pout --- not in my boat
 
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