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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Penn Giller Thriller boat rod which is a 16lb class rod.

But what does that actually mean?!?!

I realise that the higher the lb class the rod is but what does the 16 lb refer to? Test curve?

What breaking strain line should i match up with it?

Many thanks
 

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Groomoyd, a bit of a technical one to answer but bear with me.

IGFA set out line classes for world record claims, 2-4-6-8-12-16-20-30-50-80-130lb line tests. They have no rules on rod strength. The original line classes many years ago were based on East coast USA trolling rods, (long before stand-ups etc came in). These trolling rods (at least from 12lb upwards) were designed to accomodate lines of that class and to act in balance with them.

The rod when bent to optimum curvature, i.e. tip at 90 degrees to but would be exerting a strain in the general region of 2/3rds of that line class, in other words a 30lb rod, when giving maximum pull would be bent at 2/3rds of 30lb (20 obviously).

This gave the anglers a guide as to strike drags, maximum drags etc.

Nowadays few rods bare any resemblance to this unless they are dedicated IGFA trolling blanks. No idea what your rod would handle but you can check yourself.

Put line through the rod, connect to a spring balance and pull until the rod tip is at 90 degrees to the butt. Whatever the reading that is actually 2/3rds of the actual line class of that particular rod. Obviously you can use any line you want but once it reaches optimum curvature the rod cant give you any more pull.

Stan:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So the rod should exert 16 lbs of pressure at full curve?

20lb line therefore being about right?
 

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Not quite, if its a 16lb rod, when it is at full curve ( that`s wrong) optimum curve, 90 degrees to butt, it should be reading about 9-11lb on the scales so a 12lb test line would be fine. If you bend to "full" curve, you can pull the rod over your head and bend it double if you want but after optimum all you d is lose pulling power, simple mechanics and rod dynamics.

Probably best to say that in UK (and Sweeden) dont ask me why, we seem to be out of line with most other countries on boat rod tests. In USA ( E coast), S Africa, Australia, NZ, Canada, most S. America, Azores, C Verde etc etc they all seem to more or less comply with the original IGFA guidelines. In UK, we seem to be a lot lighter.

A pretty standard, off the shelf boat rod from UK say a 50 or 80lb rod would probably be asked for by lots of UK anglers for porbeagle, conger, skate etc. If they went to normal IGFA ratings they would find the same power ( or more ) in a 20 0r 30lb rod)

As an example, if using an genuine IGFA rated blank as stand up for the heaviest of UK conger 100lb plus or common skate 150 - 200lb , all you need is a 30lb. An IGFA 50 is something for swordfish, marlin, yellowfin etc and an 80 is for the big boys, 1000lb plus tigers, whites, blue / black marlin and bluefin tuna.

Stan :)
 

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Thanks

At least i know it wasn't a stupid question!!!!!

Doubt if many questins relating to fishing / tackle are stupid. There`s a post from someone using the same gear on 15lb so that`s as good a guide as any

Stan:)
 

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I just been given a Fox Impressa 12lb - and I can't tell the dif between it and a Giller Thriller! I also fish with 2 guys who use budget spinning rods by shakespeare and catch conger and tope with then all the time! They are very thick in the butt end but light at the tip. I guess its what you are used to. These two guys win a lot of comps and prizes by the way.
 
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UK LIne class IS a lot lighter than IGFA.

A 30lb class UK spec rod has a test curve of 6lb.
The test curve being how much pressure is needed to pull the rod into a standard 90 degree curve, not a heavily loaded full on power curve.
Therefore a 16lb class rod will have a curve of 3.2lb.
16lb class means suited to 16lb line.
 
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I just been given a Fox Impressa 12lb - and I can't tell the dif between it and a Giller Thriller! I also fish with 2 guys who use budget spinning rods by shakespeare and catch conger and tope with then all the time! They are very thick in the butt end but light at the tip. I guess its what you are used to. These two guys win a lot of comps and prizes by the way.
Catching big fish on light tackle isn't a magical feat of trickery.
For a laugh we use 3 foot plastic rods congering.
People make the mistake of matching a rod to the approximate size of the fish they expect to catch.

This is completely wrong when talking about pelagic Big Game fish when the reality is a rod with a line class of about 1/10 that of the typical size fish would be used.
In the UK I would recommend balancing the rod you choose to use on a particular day with the amount of lead you need to get to the bottom.
ie: If your rod is uncomfortable and cumbersome with the amount of lead yuo need then step up to one that copes easily.
Very roughly:

Up to 8oz then a 6lb to 12lb class rod will do
Up to 12oz then a 12lb to 16lb class rod will do
Up to 1.5lb then a 20lb class rod will do
Over 1.5lb then a 30lb class tod will do
Over 2lb, give up and wait until you can fish more easily

The only exception to this will be a relative novice fishing for Common Skate or maybe Shark, but even shark in this country should not require anything over 30lb class and 20lb class being adequate for Blues.

Tom
 

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Catching big fish on light tackle isn't a magical feat of trickery.
For a laugh we use 3 foot plastic rods congering.
People make the mistake of matching a rod to the approximate size of the fish they expect to catch.

This is completely wrong when talking about pelagic Big Game fish when the reality is a rod with a line class of about 1/10 that of the typical size fish would be used.
In the UK I would recommend balancing the rod you choose to use on a particular day with the amount of lead you need to get to the bottom.
ie: If your rod is uncomfortable and cumbersome with the amount of lead yuo need then step up to one that copes easily.
Very roughly:

Up to 8oz then a 6lb to 12lb class rod will do
Up to 12oz then a 12lb to 16lb class rod will do
Up to 1.5lb then a 20lb class rod will do
Over 1.5lb then a 30lb class tod will do
Over 2lb, give up and wait until you can fish more easily

The only exception to this will be a relative novice fishing for Common Skate or maybe Shark, but even shark in this country should not require anything over 30lb class and 20lb class being adequate for Blues.

Tom
well said tom. I never have understood rod classes but I do know that my record cod of 14 kg (yes I am one of those continental metric lovers) came up with no problems at all on a 16 lb rod and 30lb line. I just take these numbers to know how much lead i can move with it. although I take a lot less weight than you do... but that's a matter of preference.

jan
 
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Hi Jan

The amount of lead suggested is quite simply how much I would use on a particular rod before I feel it is too uncomfortable.
Remember it is just my opinion. The majority of anglers still match their rod to the fish they think they will catch.

eg:....." The skipper says I might catch a 50lb Conger so I need a 50lb rod"
RUBBISH!


For example, on a typical day drifting a wreck for Cod and Pollock mid channel In would use my Shimano Speedmaster 6lb to 12lb rod. This rod is great with up to 6 oz of lead and struggles a bit beyond that, but has never had any problem with fish to well over 20lb.

For nealry all of my Conger fishing I use a Shimano Beastmaster inline 200g rod which is very roughly 20lb class. This rod handles anything that swims and only struggles when leads go much more than 1.25lb. At this point the "big gun" comes out. This is a rod I built (and have recently rebuilt) myself from a glass Sportex blank some 23 years ago. It is 30lb class and I would be comfortable really leaning in to anything with it, including some very large pelagic fish, let alone snotty strap Conger of sub 50lb and a few pack Tope.

Tom
 

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Not sure if this will work or not, if the photo comes up then it was down to me, if it dont work then its down to Holty boy:clap2:


Just the talk earlier in the thread about UK rods being a lot lighter than IGFA rods

I`ve got a UK 80 blank & an IGFA 80 in the workshop so thought |I would take a shot of the two together with there relevant guides.

Here goes nothing.
 

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Just out of interest fix you reel line to a spring balance ,Get a GOOD mate to hold the scales.Then you lift into the road and get your mate to tell you when you reach 10lbs [TEN pounds] then see how long you can hold it for. I think you will have a bit of a shock. BE CAREFUL !!!!!!!!!! make sure the line is in good condition.
 
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Not sure if this will work or not, if the photo comes up then it was down to me, if it dont work then its down to Holty boy:clap2:


Just the talk earlier in the thread about UK rods being a lot lighter than IGFA rods

I`ve got a UK 80 blank & an IGFA 80 in the workshop so thought |I would take a shot of the two together with there relevant guides.

Here goes nothing.
Hi Stan

I won't ask what you have a UK 80lb class rod for, but I can only guess that IGFA the rod in the photo is actually a trolling rod rod rather than, say a Stand-up rod?
 

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Stan is quite right...our "ratings" are no-where near the IGFA rods that I see in the 'States. I have a 30lb blank in my workshop that I use to try on clients, and the vast majority guess that it is "At least 50, if not 80lb class".
Most US rods are designed for trolling, pulling a baitfish weighing perhaps 8-15lb at 4-8knots. Thats how they fish!

philtherod
 

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Hi Stan

I won't ask what you have a UK 80lb class rod for, but I can only guess that IGFA the rod in the photo is actually a trolling rod rod rather than, say a Stand-up rod?
Tom, the UK "80" is a renovation, chap uses it for congering, actually a pretty good blank but I`d rate it as 20lb - 30 at best , (n IGFA standards) the angler is happy and has loads of conger on it to , I think, 69lb or thereabouts. The 80lb trolling is for myself with Everol ball bearing rollers, (xmas project ) a sneaky bitch of a blue marlin around the 7-800lb mark stuffed me on 30 stand up earlier this year when it snaffled a white marlin lure (after trolling 80 bent butts for 5hrs with nothing but whites taking the big lures :g: :g: :g: ) 4 hrs 10 mins on 30 test to a Shimano stand up and TLD 30. Shimano was the boats rod and stood the test well (very well). TLD 30 also took the strain although the drag gave out on the last 1/2 hour or so, me??? I packed in after 2.5 hrs in 97 degrees and passed the rod over, then proceeded to vomit for 10 mins:yucky: :yucky:

Will get the bitch this year from a chair, too old for stand up and 50 **** a day:uhuh: :uhuh:
 

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I am now really confused! I have an american Star B30-80 HC which is not broomstick
stiff but american built. mind you it has alot of grunt low down but the tip is reasonably fine. I dont get the chance to fish with it so maybe ill put it on the classified section!
 
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Hi Martin

I used to own a whole suite of Star rods. That's the stand-up isn't it?

If so then it is about equivalent to our 80lb class and will just about stop anything in the world that swims. I used to use mine all over the world and it stood up to most things.

Stan, your mate using a UK 80lb for Conger needs to lighten up a little. 80lb on Conger is from the days when if you snagged the wreck you needed to wind it in to get your hook back.
Nowdays we anchor further uptide and draw the fish to us. Doing this we can comfortably fish UK 30lb (absolute tops) and generally down to 20lb for fish averaging 30lb to 50lb with the odd better one thrown in. It does "surprise" you when you hook a 70lb+ Conger on UK 20lb class, but you'll win if you have a little patience and baring in mind you are anchored 40 yards up from the wreck you can let the fish have it's head just a little without fear of loosing it in the ironwork.
Get him to ease up on the 80lb class as I truly believed nobody was doing that anymore.

It's good to hear from anglers who know the difference between UK and standard IGFA ratings.
For the UK, however, the lb class of the rod is 5 times the natural test curve of the rod.
The test curve of the rod is how much pressure is required to pull the rod into it's basic 90 degree fighting curve (not fully FULLY compressed).

So a 2.5 test curve rod will be approx 12lb class and so on.

Tom
 
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