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Discussion Starter #1
Gonna try braid on my new Akios Cobalt 80, either 50lb/60lb straight through or 30lb and leader (over clean to mixed ground) Could someone please tell me what the best knot is for tying...
A: braid to tapered shock leader.
B: braid to a Gemini Genie Link.
Or should I stick with 15lb mono for he extra abrasion resistance on the mixed ground marks?
Thanks.
 

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B. Braid to a Gemini Link

When playing a fish, the reel's drag will limit how much force is being applied to the knot. It is really the stress from casting that does them in. That force is much higher, and is repeated over and over again. Braid is thin and slippery and will continue to tighten upon itself, never relaxing. Like a boa constrictor, ever tightening. So a really "good knot" might be good at first, but over time might end up cutting itself free.

I find the knot linked below to be durable and more than a match for my casting skills. LOL It also leaves you with a loop to affix to the reel when the day is done. Watch very closely as he lays the wraps alongside each other, the way he rolls the knot, and there is a little twist he adds as he attaches the clip. Having a few wraps around the eye of that clip is also a big help.

http://www.fishingkites.co.nz/fishingknots/braid_fishing_knots.html

That reel looks very nice, and I imagine you are seeking extreme distance. I never understood why someone would run a heavier line than needed, just to avoid a shock leader knot. You will loose distance every trip of the train. You mentioned using a tapered shock leader, I would go with that if you want a mono type of leader there, and go with the lighter main line class.

Maybe later, if you have issues with that knot rattling through the guides and such, you could try a braid shock leader. The knot you get with that connection is so small I doubt you would notice it as it passes through. Again however, remember that the knots joining the two lines will also continue to tighten upon themselves over time. While they don't receive the same amount of stress as the terminal knot does, over time they too suffer. It is always a good idea to cut free and tie up again from time to time.

I have been using a braid shock leader over clean ground for years and have learned the above fact the hard way. Everyone recommended the UNI to UNI connection. Good at first, but over time I got mystery separations. They gave way while the rod was just spiked up. I believe it was due to the knot over tightening, and getting weak over time.

Now days I use 40b main line and 100lb shock leader, joined together with a Nail knot to Nail knot connection. Maybe 8 wraps with the thinner line and six with the heavy. This produces two barrels that abut against each other and the constriction seems to be more forgiving. I know that since switching a year or so ago to this new connection, no more mystery separations.

I also like to burn the ends of my braid line. I just can't bear to see them fuzzy. It gets me to thinking the strands are getting loose within the knot.

Good luck with that new reel.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
B. Braid to a Gemini Link

When playing a fish, the reel's drag will limit how much force is being applied to the knot. It is really the stress from casting that does them in. That force is much higher, and is repeated over and over again. Braid is thin and slippery and will continue to tighten upon itself, never relaxing. Like a boa constrictor, ever tightening. So a really "good knot" might be good at first, but over time might end up cutting itself free.

I find the knot linked below to be durable and more than a match for my casting skills. LOL It also leaves you with a loop to affix to the reel when the day is done. Watch very closely as he lays the wraps alongside each other, the way he rolls the knot, and there is a little twist he adds as he attaches the clip. Having a few wraps around the eye of that clip is also a big help.

http://www.fishingkites.co.nz/fishingknots/braid_fishing_knots.html

That reel looks very nice, and I imagine you are seeking extreme distance. I never understood why someone would run a heavier line than needed, just to avoid a shock leader knot. You will loose distance every trip of the train. You mentioned using a tapered shock leader, I would go with that if you want a mono type of leader there, and go with the lighter main line class.

Maybe later, if you have issues with that knot rattling through the guides and such, you could try a braid shock leader. The knot you get with that connection is so small I doubt you would notice it as it passes through. Again however, remember that the knots joining the two lines will also continue to tighten upon themselves over time. While they don't receive the same amount of stress as the terminal knot does, over time they too suffer. It is always a good idea to cut free and tie up again from time to time.

I have been using a braid shock leader over clean ground for years and have learned the above fact the hard way. Everyone recommended the UNI to UNI connection. Good at first, but over time I got mystery separations. They gave way while the rod was just spiked up. I believe it was due to the knot over tightening, and getting weak over time.

Now days I use 40b main line and 100lb shock leader, joined together with a Nail knot to Nail knot connection. Maybe 8 wraps with the thinner line and six with the heavy. This produces two barrels that abut against each other and the constriction seems to be more forgiving. I know that since switching a year or so ago to this new connection, no more mystery separations.

I also like to burn the ends of my braid line. I just can't bear to see them fuzzy. It gets me to thinking the strands are getting loose within the knot.

Good luck with that new reel.
Thanks, I've decided I will have the deep spool filled with 0.35mm mono + 60lb leader and the medium spool filled with 30lb braid and a tapered mono leader, I'lloris see how I get on with that. Thanks the the help!
 

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As far as tying to a gemini link goes, what ive done with 15lb (might be 20lb, cant remember now) braid on a small fixed spool i use for bass and flatty bashing, is i have tied a bimini twist loop into the end of the braid, then passed the loop through the eye of the link, pulled it through and passed the link through the loop. So the line isnt tied to the link as such.
Never had a problem with it yet
 

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Been "braiding" for a while now and . Tried all sorts of knots and leaders including braid leaders...I'm no expert and continue to bumble along looking to improve. In my humble opinion I've found that grinners are good for braid to braid (lovely, small knots), swivels, Gemini genie links etc. I'm currently using normal mono leaders (not tapered) and the FG knot. It's a very strong knot with a lovely low profile. Well worth a try. I'm sure others out there have very different opinions, but this works for me- at least for now anyway!
 

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Braid main line to a braid shock leader . Knots , to a link or a swivel or hook , Uni knot. Shock leader to main line, there,s lots of knots we all have our favourites. My preference is my version of a slim beauty .
 
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