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I have put the rod in the Vintage section but just in case, I thought I'd ask here.

I picked a few rods today, one of them, an ABU Pacific 30S has a damaged eye. Would anyone know if this can be welded?

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Appreciated @Norm B When you say soldered, one of these cheap little soldering kits they sell in Aldi would suffice? Or is it something else☺
That would need to be brazed (hard solder) not electric/plumbing solder. This would need a flame not an electric iron. I doubt you can do that on the rod without the heat transferfing down the leg and damaging the wrap and possibly the blank.
Either remove the guide first or get a similar new guide like a diamite intermediate.
 

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@colina That makes sense, I might leave it as is in that case. These guides have a Matt finish and I'm not new whippings would stand out too much. Not that I know for certain.
 

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. I doubt you can do that on the rod without the heat transferfing down the leg and damaging the wrap and possibly the blank.
Totally agree with that, also any fix would most likely need to be polished out which would be a nightmare without really specialist tools.
 

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Just replace it mate, a usable rod with a guide of a different colour/fresh hi build is better than an ornament
 

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If you doubt your own skills, take the rod to a professional rod builder and get a proper repair done using a guide like

www.guidesnblanks.com/p/seymo_616_hc_stainless_steel_cradle_guide

The black thread work over the guide will probably be the only section that needs replacing, and will likely end up looking just the same as the original. The under wrapping wouldn't/shouldn't need to be touched.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just replace it mate, a usable rod with a guide of a different colour/fresh hi build is better than an ornament
I am tempted Bacon, but in for a penny, I'd probably have them all replaced for braid friendly ones. It's quite a soft action for a 30lb class rod, but it's very very nice.
 

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Now you are faced with 2 options preserve the rod in original format, and keep as a collectable for later resale. Or, upgrade to modern components and use. As time goes on, they will become more increasingly rare, like a 70 year old Hardy 50lb class boat rod that I have tucked away in storage - would never upgrade it.

Edit: Find an original ABU 30 lever drag reel that it was meant to be paired with and it would be a real collectable.
 

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Now you are faced with 2 options preserve the rod in original format, and keep as a collectable for later resale. Or, upgrade to modern components and use. As time goes on, they will become more increasingly rare, like a 70 year old Hardy 50lb class boat rod that I have tucked away in storage - would never upgrade it.

Edit: Find an original ABU 30 lever drag reel that it was meant to be paired with and it would be a real collectable.
;);) I have a Hardy 30lb class rod with AFTCO rollers, I don't think it's 50 years old but it may be. I did offer it for sale on here but no takers so am keeping it for grand children.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
@Bronzhaii It does seem a shame to remove all the guides, and I would prefer to keep it original. Also seems a shame for a rod not to be used. I have my original Ugly Stiks that I do intend using even though they are in collectable condition. Next week I'll be using an ABU Pacific 20lb out of Whitby, not all day, but it will be used...I have looked for the ABU reel, but only seen silly prices for very tatty examples.
 

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;);) I have a Hardy 30lb class rod with AFTCO rollers, I don't think it's 50 years old but it may be. I did offer it for sale on here but no takers so am keeping it for grand children.;)
Didn't see that Norm, how much were you asking?
 

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It`s an original square Mildrum guide. Depending on diameter, I`ve got 2 or 3 here. . Couple matt and one bright but the bright is easily matted with synthetic wire wool. The black thread should strip off by gently teasing from the extreme outer end and then unravelling. No need for heat as it will be copal varnish or similar rather than a two pack polymer resin. The silver under is a sticky back tinfoil, it should remain intact.

Check a size and if I`ve got it you can have it. If wrong size you will still get them from USofA or fleabay under vintage tackle
 

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Someone like @Mukiwa will know/have kit as they can be silver soldered with a fine tipped torch. But also can be glued back with things like JB Metal/wonder weld if clened fully between each side then some gear in there then clamp together Gear is Brilliant
 

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I remember those rods from my youth they were considered the dogs wotsits...as were the lever drags that went with them. I never knew or understood what the handle under the reel seat was for??!!
 

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I have put the rod in the Vintage section but just in case, I thought I'd ask here.

I picked a few rods today, one of them, an ABU Pacific 30S has a damaged eye. Would anyone know if this can be welded?

View attachment 1362804

View attachment 1362805

It can be welded. If you know anyone with a bit of skill and a decent TIG welder. It could be done with a light grinding down to bare steel, It would require grinding down for the earth clamp as well to get a good connection then very low amp spot like weld with the right tungsten and filler rod.

The problem is restoring the finish back to being rust proof and presentable, maybe a couple of coats of red oxide and then a matching metal finish paint.

It can be done but its a delicate operation. You just have to answer the question of weather its worth it. Easier options as other have suggested braising or gluing it but it would never be the same in strength than a proper weld.
 

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It can be welded. If you know anyone with a bit of skill and a decent TIG welder. It could be done with a light grinding down to bare steel, It would require grinding down for the earth clamp as well to get a good connection then very low amp spot like weld with the right tungsten and filler rod.

The problem is restoring the finish back to being rust proof and presentable, maybe a couple of coats of red oxide and then a matching metal finish paint.

It can be done but its a delicate operation. You just have to answer the question of weather its worth it. Easier options as other have suggested braising or gluing it but it would never be the same in strength than a proper weld.
JB Wonder metal is as strong as original! been used to repair blown engine blocks and still going. I repaired a big pewter type metal belt buckle as where loop fixed in either side had worn away gobbed it up with JB never broke again.https://www.jb-weld.co.uk/
 
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