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2 and 4 stroke - Applicable for overwintering \Servicing
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Run the engine on muffs for at least 5 mins to clean out salt and to warm it up. Have a look at the flow from the 'pee' pipe, if it is dribbling either you have salt deposits blocking the engine waterways or you need a new water pump impeller.

Remove the plugs and squirt in some fogging oil ( Quicksilver Winterising is one ), turn engine over to distribute oil and replace the plugs. When you fire up next time run engine until it runs clean and then replace plugs. The old ones are then spares. These plugs are known to be good whereas a new plug from the box could be faulty.

Remove top and bottom slotted screws on gearbox bullett. Drain gearbox oil, if it is clear you are OK, if it is milky get help. Replace by filling from the bottom hole and when it comes out of the top hole it is full. Get the bottom pug in quickly followed by the top.

At the bottom of each carb there is a brass nut, undo it 1/2 turn and fuel will come out. Drain all the fuel from each carb starting at the top. Nip the nuts up afterwards.

Take off the prop and grease the splines, check you havn't got anything round the shaft, bit of line trapped there can work under the gearbox oil seal and cause a world of grief.

Grease all points on the engine with a grease gun filled with a lime based grease and give the steering tube a squirt with Wurth spray grease when fully extended. Store in the fully retracted position to stop water ingress into the inner tube. Inside the cable is all mild steel.

Check the anodes on the engine, any that are 50% gone should be replaced.

Give the engine an all over squirt with Duck oil, or WD at a pinch. A squirt of Wurth on all the moving linkages is worth while

4 stroke only,
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Drop the engine oil and remove the oil filter, replace filter and top up with fresh oil. Use the oil recomended by the mnufacturer, it is dearer than normal 4 stroke oil but contains additional addatives for marine use. It is a once a year cost so not worth saving a few bob IMHO.

General
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Give the outside a good wash down and dry, touch in any paint chips and when all dry give the exterior a coat of wax polish. Leave this on without polishing to protect the paintwork from the weather. A wash over and polish next time you use it will bring it up to spec.

Take the battery out of the boat and stand on plenty of newspaper in a shed, trickle charge once a month.

Top up your fuel tanks to the top and close the breathers to stop water ingress and condensation. OR empty them completely and store upside down with the caps removed. Check the hoses and bulbs or signs of cracking, perishing. Check the fittings at the ends of the fuel lines, especially the 'O'ring seals. any damage replace them.

Take all the removable electrics off the boat, wrap in a towel and hide at the back of the airing cupboard, it will do them good. All the electrical connections will benefit from a dab of vaseline. Have a look at the end of the ariel co ax cable that goes into the VHF, if it is black the conducter is corroded. Cut it back to fresh metal and remake the connection. It is surprising how many VHF faults are down to this.

Check your flares are still in date and any auto inflate life jackets are in good nick. Check the CO2 cannisters are tight, they tend to work loose with the engine vibes.

Take the rope off your boat and give it a wash in warm water and washing powder, it picks up loads of sand and this causes wear inside the rope. Rinse in plenty of cold water and coil, hang it in a shed out of direct sunlight to dry. Check all the shackles on the anchor gear are nipped up and not rusty.

Wash the trailer with warm soapy water to get rid of salt, Check the wheel bearings, rock the tyres side to side any play replace the bearings. While the trailer is jacked up spin the wheels, any graunching, replce the bearings. Take the bearings out clean them and check, if any signs of rust at all, replace and regrease. Check the tyres for damage and if you are leaving the boat for any length of time jack up and block off, this gives the tyres/ suspension a rest and stops flats forming on tyres. Grease the tow hitch and linkages. Any signs of rust on the trailer metalwork will benift from a wire brushing and a coat of a Zink rich primer followed by a cold galvanising paint. The trailer rollers should be checked for flats and the pivot pins dosed with Wurth spray grease.

All I can think of but I am sure I have missed plenty, someone will fill in the blanks

If you get stuck on anything shout.

Sorry for the length of the post
 

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Ive recently bought an old outboard for an auxiliary. It is an Evinrude Litetwin (americanised!) 3HP, 1966.

I found a decent site on how to service the above and thought it may be useful for others with similar motors or to maybe get some pointers from.....

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa... Johnson 3 HP 1952-1967 Tune-Up Procedure.htm

If you look at the procedures for the ignition system, carb etc it may help
 

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Great Info Chris, one question ref fuel tanks, my new boat has an integral tank, and I have been given conflicting advise for winter storage, some say fill em up and drop a few addative tabs in, others say drain them, not always the easiest thing to do, on the last trip of the season, I don't want to run out, and the weather will dictate what is the last trip not me. Whats your opinion ?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a built in tank and I store mine full and with the breather pipe stop ended, no problems so far at the start of the new season.
 

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i would like to take a moment to recomend ZINCSMART WWW.ZINCSMART.COM i ordered a new anode yesterday afternoon and it arrived this morning £10.50 inc vat and post(which was charged as per stamps used) and there was no need to pay up front the invoice arrived with the anode
 

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just a quick question about filling the gearbox, you suggest filling from the bottomnot the topis this right? i've always drained from the bottom filled from the top. doesn't filling from the botton result in underfilling? doesn't the oil run down your arm while you put the bottom plug in?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Raymondo, if you fill from the top you can get an air lock in there. It is messy but if you are quick the oil loss is minimal and you can top it off via the top plug.
 

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If you want a good site to help sort engines out try Iboats.com-link direct to their forum here. http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi

There's marine engineers on there that rebuild anything and everything and they are extremely helpful.

Re-filling the gearbox-do it from the bottom and when it overflows put the top screw in. Gear lube is thick enough you lose very little while you put the bottom screw in.
 

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Good post Chris, :clap3:
I was going to take it in to get serviced, but now I think I'll give it a go myself. I can manage old landrovers and chainsaws so might manage my 2 stroke force 75 hp.

Cheers
Martin.
 

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one little thing about filling gearbox fill from bottom hole till it comes out of top hole while you still have the oil filler in bottom hole put top screw in first then the bottom this stops the oil running out the bottom while you try and get the drain screw back in
 

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One thing on putting oil in the gearbox. On many engines if you get any air in it will expand and blow the seals when the thing warms up. Not a good idea. I think that's where the fill from the bottom comes in. I've done it on a honda which can have the problem by allowing it to run into the gearbox very very slowly, took nearly an hour. Watch you don't keep pumping at the oil bottle as you will get air bubbles in the oil. They will take ages to come out.
Another way to check for water ingress is to leave the drained oil in a jam jar or something. Any water will eventually settle out.
Honda and maybe others have a pressure check to check for seal wear. Just pump up the empty gear box up and see what pressure it leaks at.

John
 

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Important to fill from bottom will drive air out from vital parts while filling.
I replaced my mates gearbox he filled it from the top air stoped oil in one area of box 6 trips then grind crunch new box,GOOD POST LADS

Porby,
 

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Good info guys.

FYI for changing gear oil I bought a hand pump and adaptor kit from johnson evinrude a few years ago which makes life really easy and no oil wastage. You need to initially buy a gallon can of the gear oil to start with which is bit pricy but you are going to use it over time anyway. All I have to do is drain the gear oil, screw the adaptor into the bottom hole and just pump the plunger until the oil trickles out the top. Just like using a liquid soap pump.

I can do make main and aux in no time and no mess.
 

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2 and 4 stroke - Applicable for overwintering \Servicing
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Run the engine on muffs for at least 5 mins to clean out salt and to warm it up.
The RNLI advise against running an engine for more than 2 minutes on muffs. It can cause the engine to oil up and the plugs to foul. For long periods use a tank so that you get the correct exhaust back pressure. It will also give a truer idea of the health of your water pump.
A poor telltale output may not mean a sick pump. Could just be a bit of cack - I once removed some earwigs from an engine whos owner had replaced then refitted (twice) a water pump impeller when the old one was fine!
 

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Good post
One thing I would add is to check all cables (especially remote steering and throttle cables). My 8hp yam snapped a throttle cable on the bench when I was flushing out after removing the bouat from yhe harbour in November.
 

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allways fill outboard gearbox from the bottom. fill till oil just comes out of the top hole. remove the pump or tube then screw in the plug dont over fill. this will cause the oil seals to leak when the oil gets hot and expands
 

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Maybe it would be a good idea for people to post here any good online stores to buy outboard parts and service consumables such as oil and filters etc. I am about to start collecting the stuff I need for the annual service and I am relying on google to look after me but some references would be useful.

Ryan
 

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one more thing. put some emulsifying oil in the water you run the engine in this will coat the water ways and help stop corrosion. if you use muffs, put it in a barrel and run a siphon hose to the muffs. if the barrel is high enough and you dont rev the engine you will get enough water through. make sure you add the water to the oil . do it the other way and it wont mix. emulsifying oil is used on lathes and other machine cutting tools
 
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