[Corndawg]

Hello all,

Having been struggling with distance now for a while,I have found out my downfall.

Firstly,I am not casting properly,(sort of hard overhead thump,with a long drop),when I didn't understand the concept of OTG.

I have now got the idea,and will be on the playing field soon.

But My multis',(Maybe a bit slow),are both loaded with 20,and 25lb main line respectively.

Would dropping to a lighter main line help get more distance,and is there a bigger risk of rig loss for the sake of a few extra yards?.

Also,

It might be another reason,I don't know.....

I have trouble with my legs,back,and neck,which means I have trouble loading extra weight on a single leg,and not a lot of twist at the hips due to my back.

Is it possible to slightly alter my stance,and still do a good OTG cast?....

I would be interested to hear from any other disabled anglers in a similar situation,and how they have altered things to thier own way.

Thanks in advance,

Si.

 

[Ravelling Tangler]

Line diameter does make a difference if you are already casting more than (say) about 130 yards. 0.30mm (10-12lb line) can cast further (but be more prone to backlashes) than 0.40 mm (18-22lb line) and a bit further than 0.35mm (15lb approx) line.
a badly non-aerodynamic bait/end-rig can make more difference (hence clipping down for distance)

If your arms are good, you might consider the HiInertia (a.k.a. Brighton or Unitech) cast, with no weight transfer between legs. That would probably top out at about 180-200 yards (lead only) or 150yards (on the beach, with bait).

However this style of cast is not recommended for thin-tipped fast-taper rods (like "flick tips") as the loading {from the high inertia} is at first concentrated towards the tip of the rod, and there's some risk of snapping it a couple of feet down from the tip - see someone's reply to me in th e"Brighton cast " topic.

CORRECTION I've just gone and read that topic, and it looks like you can use that cast with a fine-tipped rod - see what PhiltheRod posted in that topic.

 

[sallysludgebucket]

I always fished with 25-30lb line until about 3 years ago and could bearly cast over the dam breakers, changed over to 18lb thin diameter and a decent shockleader and boy did it make a difference. I now regularly fish 11lb with a tapered shockleader upto a 3 oz lead, also 15-16lb with regular 60lb shock and 5 oz lead and it sails out.

The disadvantage of not being able to pull such a high persentage out of snags can be compensated with a rotton bottom system ie, Imps, Rotton bottom clips or using a regular bait holding Gemini clip, s clip upside down with a length of reduced mono attatched to the clip and weight, clip it and cast.

 

[Corndawg]

Line diameter does make a difference if you are already casting more than (say) about 130 yards. 0.30mm (10-12lb line) can cast further (but be more prone to backlashes) than 0.40 mm (18-22lb line) and a bit further than 0.35mm (15lb approx) line.
a badly non-aerodynamic bait/end-rig can make more difference (hence clipping down for distance)

If your arms are good, you might consider the HiInertia (a.k.a. Brighton or Unitech) cast, with no weight transfer between legs. That would probably top out at about 180-200 yards (lead only) or 150yards (on the beach, with bait).

However this style of cast is not recommended for thin-tipped fast-taper rods (like "flick tips") as the loading {from the high inertia} is at first concentrated towards the tip of the rod, and there's some risk of snapping it a couple of feet down from the tip - see someone's reply to me in th e"Brighton cast " topic.

CORRECTION I've just gone and read that topic, and it looks like you can use that cast with a fine-tipped rod - see what PhiltheRod posted in that topic.

I have been looking at that thread for a while,and constantly watching the clip.

As for fine tips?....

I am using a pair of Shakespeare In2 12' rods,with a 4-8oz casting weight.

Not as thick tipped as my old Milbro,but good enough,if you know what I mean.

Jo,

Cheers for your input chick,long time no chat ?.........

To make this rotton bottom,would a bit of doubled up 20lb mono do the job ?.

I just wonder,as I normally use a 50lb trace,and praying to get over 70 yds !!!!!!!

The best I have done,on grass,is roughly 90 yds,but knowing how to get that little bit further,is sure to help on the east coast........

I have started working out this clipped up/down thing,and seem to be making a bit of progress,it is getting the cast and distance sorted now.

Another thing.......

I am not sure if it is also the rods,as they are made as "entry level" rods,(£12 each!!),for newbys'....They are made of Glass fibre,and have a healthy bend in them,but not sure if they have enough "ummph" in them...


Will give it all a go,and see what happens........

 

[sallysludgebucket]

The theory is that the rotton bottom should be a lower breaking strain that the mainline, so when ( if ! LOL ) you get a fish, you can lose the lead but not the fish, also cuts down on shockleader and rig losses considerably. If you just tie a length of weaker mono without clipping it up, it will crack off on the cast, the principle is the same as those little safety chains on bracelets ? get me ?

Check this out, inbetween the lead and the eye of the clip tie a short length of weaker mono than your mainline.

Rods do play a part in it, but a softer through action which most starting point rods are can be invaluble to build up you casting, very forgiving. I still use my Fladen charter 14 ft beachcasters and love em to bits, tough as old boots and easy to compress with a thump.

 

[Corndawg]

Sweet.........

Cheers for that Jo,will use that in future.....

I wonder if the old Milbro will be just as forgiving ? !!!!!! LOL

Older than me apparently,with a tip rating of 3-9oz...

 

[oldchukka]

i,ve just bought some teklon line to fish straight through, its a bit pricier but at 23lb b/s with a diameter of 0.35 it eases the problem i would have had getting the distance with a larger diameter lines. i intend to use it with a 6000 a.b.u reel and a bass rod and sinkers down to 1oz

 

[Pelamid]

When I was quite ill and full of 'rheumatics' I changed to a longer rod - 14 feet. Used with a fixed spool reel, lighter mainline and casting leader I was able to get a reasonable distance with a very stunted cast.
For mackeral bashing I had a cheap 12ft telescopic rod. Using a fixed spool reel, 12lb mainline and 40lb leader a sort of back cast got the feathers and 4 ozs out to 100 yds easily.
Although I prefer multipliers I think fixed spools are better if your 'flexibility' is limited.:wheelchai - me on a bad day.

 

[inford]

if you want thiner strong line why not use braid

 

[MikeR]

I've recently switched from 15lb Ultima F1 to 12lb Suffix Tritanium on my Mag Elite for clean ground fishing. What you lose in out and out breaking strain you gain in the superior abrasion resistance of Tritanium. It also casts very well indeed.

 

[Corndawg]

Thanks for all your input.

Before I go chopping and changing my line,I am off now to the field,to try these new things out,with different size leads....... 4,5,6oz.

I will see if the lines need changing,(By the way,I also removed the line levelrs from my reels too!).

Fingers crossed !!!!!!

 

[Ravelling Tangler]

a couple of tips about using rotten bottoms with clips / "rotters" / "breakers"

1/ use a rotten bottom that is a lot weaker than your main line (I use 15lb for 30+ main line) - this means you won't be hung up for 30 seconds trying (desperately) to snap the r-b while a fish is either getting off the hook or tangling the hook snood up in the bottom too

2/ go a stage further and tie a single (overhand) knot in the r-b; this reduces the b.s. by a bit for a short pull (when winding it in, or if momentarily snagged for example) but drops the b.s. a lot for a sustained pull (more than 3 or 4 seconds) because the knot cuts itself, gradually when under a few pounds of load

3/ for simple casting when starting with the weight motionless in the air you can use 'open' rig clips, "RBCs" and "rotters", but if starting with the weight on the ground or using power-casts it is safer to use a Gemini Breaker or a Breakaway equivalent (I've forgotten the name...if Breakaway still do them) which won't release the lead {from the strong leader} before the cast hit the water but those do cost about 40p each.





P.S. love the combined signature, Sally !

 

[Skatenchips]

I too have a lower back prob(dammit) and being from a freshwater background
the Lob was and is my recognised cast.
However,I have learned that trying to compress the rod with a OTG cast from a standing prone position doesnt help my injury because we are forcing
movement from a dead start.

I have been playing with the "Swinging Unitech/brighton /sleeper..call it what you will....all I know is that the lead is actively swinging in the air creating its own
speed .....we just apply a point in that movement where "The cast begins"
and I personally feel because there is already momentum being generated
it helps "me with a bad back" to use that "moving energy" to my advantage.

I have just started going through the 100 yd barrier with a F/S set up
and have yet to try with a multi.

All I can say is I dont come home aching as much from trying to "Lob cast"
or OTG cast......try a swinging lead cast of some description and see if it helps you too mate...............good luck.

Gaz

 

[Corndawg]

Cheers for that Gaz,

I will try them out,and get a lesson or two if needs be.

I have been watching them clips from various folk,on you tube,and can see the basics,machanics,etc,just got to see if I can apply them.

Will let you know how I get on.


Si.