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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi can i have your veiws on trailor dolly wheels. need to fit a new one to the trailor its carrying a 17.6 ft boat . i have both types and im thinking of fitting the blow up one but as ive only used the solid ones in the past not sure if this is the best way to go.:g: so any veiws will be helpful.
 

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Captain Chaos!
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Hiya, For me, the inflatable ones do the job better, particularly on a shingle/rubble beach...with my boat, and the areas I fish, I have to recover using a rope quite frequently, and the solid tyre digs in too easily, which has resulted in the jockey wheel shaft getting bent.....
Hope this is of some help...:):)
 

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If you find that you bent your jockey wheel shaft , there is a company in yeovil that is normaly able to supply just the part you are after and other other parts for trailers of all types ! It is called Buffalo Trailers and also does mail order , you can find them on the net .
 

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Captain Chaos!
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If you find that you bent your jockey wheel shaft , there is a company in yeovil that is normaly able to supply just the part you are after and other other parts for trailers of all types ! It is called Buffalo Trailers and also does mail order , you can find them on the net .
Thanks Sam, Much appreciated...but I now have a new ...ish trailer, and getting an inflatable wheel for it now ...:):)

BTW, welcome to the forum mate...some good guys on here !! :):)
 

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Captain Chaos!
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Why not fit an extra jockey to the trailer. I have 2 on the A frame and one on the draw bar. The draw bar pulls out from the trailer an extra 12 feet to give me a bit more before the car gets wet. Hence the 2 on the A frame to support the boat's weight whilst the bar is extended. They are handy whilst moving the trailer by hand as well. All are pneumatic as they ride over soft sand, gravel a lot better as has been stated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hi norrie yes the one on fleabay is the same as the one i have, i may put the wheel in the shaft already fitted as the one on the trailer is longer ,dont know why but was fitted as standard on the hallmark (got to be to get a level i suppose ).
thanks for your advice. buy the way should i grease the wheel shaft when i fit or with the plastic wheel do i leave it dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
chris how do the trailer extend ? is there a smaller box inside the standard box work i supose that it is set futher back in the trailer as it wouldnt be able to slide out the front because of the fitting bolts or is it under neath ?? cant think how you got this rigged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
chris how or where do your extra draw bar fix when not in use, does it fit under your trailer cant see as it would slid inside because of the fitting bolts . or have you got the tow ball and jockey wheel on the inner box which slides inside the standard trailer chassie and is held in place with a bolt when in use . hope this makes sence..great idea.
 

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Most trailers are built around the drawbar, mine was a custom build where the frame of the trailer is joined to a box section where the draw bar would normally be. The winch post is also fitted to this box. The drawbar is a 12 foot length of box section that slides into this box. The brakes are on a split rod connected by an 'R' clip and the drawbar box section is held in the towing position by a 15mm tempered pin. Pull the pin, pull the 'R' clip and drive the car forward, this draws out the bar to a stop. Replace the tempered pin and drop the 2 'A' frame jockeys and you can back in to launch or recover.

Once the trailer is back on dry land pull the tempered pin, back up the car to the stop, replace the pin and 'R' clip, lift the 2 'A' frame jockeys and drive away. No need to ever detatch the trailer from the car hitch.
 

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Chazz has it's single axle sister under his Warrior, superb trailers. I can launch and retrieve my boat (21 foot) easily single handed. As far as I know there were only 3 made to this design, another mate of mine has the third, saw mine and wanted one.

The guy that made them for us has retired now and he said he would never make another as they were very difficult to build.

The also come apart, ie. they are not completely welded construction so each part can be regalvanised if needed without having to have the whole trailer done.

Where they are welded a 12 mm hole was drilled one side of the blind box on one side at the bottom and on the opposite side at the top, this way when they are dipped for galvanising the galv penetrates all the box sections and if any water should get in it can also get out.

Sorry to go so far off topic
 

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With most boat trailers they are built as a basic design to fit a set shape which have adjustible sections so it will fit similar sizes , When braked Hubs are fitted they should have a flushing out hole in the rear , but it never pays to rely on them solely , If competent you can easily strip the hubs and pack with a good grade marine grease , I used to work for my father inlaw who builds trailors to spec and have seen many trailors where the hose was flashed by and the customer was left wandering why they need new Brake pads at 50 notes a pair and springs and the brake cables and the cable balance ect ect , dont be afraid of really sticking the hose in the hub , just dont go firing wd40 in , with the hope it will stop it rusting .As for greasing the jockey wheels , only do it if they have a metal bearing that is sealed , otherwise sand will stick to the grease and become a grinding compound , but there are some tyre and wheel units that now have a Nylon Bush / Bearing system , so no grease needed . And also make sure the Hitch working parts are kept greased to prevent it seasing up otherwise -no brakes too .

bye bye
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
many thanks to you all for your advice i have had many tralers in the past and ive flattend off quite a few dolly wheels. ive never used a blow up before and you have comfirmed that they are the way to go i will be fitting one on my smaller trailer as well.as usual you can rely on this site for the answers!!!
 
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