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After doing some maintenance fettling and some small repairs in the gunnels over Xmas I have come across some issues in the transom from poor mounting of a transducer with no sealant at all and it’s P clips and also it looks like I have some redundant lower engine mounting holes and one of the plugs is leaking slightly into the bilge.

After getting some advice it’s been suggested I need to dowel the holes and fibreglass them to do it properly which will involve moving the engine over or removing which I was going to do the later to keep it safe but as I was about to get started my missus suggested paying someone to do it as I don’t get much spare time and I don’t want it to turn into a long term project as I want it back in the water in the spring.

I’m no fibreglass expert but know with research and advice it’d be done right so then to pay someone I need to find someone who will do it right not cheap so if anybody can recommend someone or a company who can do it right especially if they are short on work right now please post the details.
I’m in Kent but within reason I will travel or have it delivered for the right job.
Some pics below
 

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Discussion Starter #2
34AD6F27-6D5A-4C60-8D26-20B5AA50857B.jpeg

A8739888-2FDE-40E0-AE7B-F8DE1BAC789B.jpeg DAD997FD-9DE8-4A02-9861-FE291327006D.jpeg
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I’d also like the aluminium angle under the outboard refitted or replaced as a few of the rivets have broken and it’s coming away.
 

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If there's water coming out then you might want to drill a hole to check whether the transom is rotten but if you do this and find rot then repairs will take you some time and/or cost (no idea how much it costs to get a transom replacement done professionally but you can see me attempting it
New boat. Rotten deck. DIY battle)

If not, then you could fill the holes as you say, a alternative to dowels is to drill the hole out increasing diameter of drill bit until you get clean wood then use a countersunk bit on either side to create an hour glass shape then fill the hole with thickened resin (you can use fiberglass dust or talc although I've heard talc can result water absorption but if you've re-gelcoated or painted then should be OK) or off the shelf equivalent equivalent filler/marine filler.

I can't recommend a boat repair place near you though sorry.
 

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Hi, I cannot see the photos very well, but first off you need to clean the areas of oil, paint, muck, that need to be repair, then with some sanding of the areas for better adhesion, dust free wipes down with some recommended cleaner and completely dry, preferably in a warm dry place to do the repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If there's water coming out then you might want to drill a hole to check whether the transom is rotten but if you do this and find rot then repairs will take you some time and/or cost (no idea how much it costs to get a transom replacement done professionally but you can see me attempting it
New boat. Rotten deck. DIY battle)

If not, then you could fill the holes as you say, a alternative to dowels is to drill the hole out increasing diameter of drill bit until you get clean wood then use a countersunk bit on either side to create an hour glass shape then fill the hole with thickened resin (you can use fiberglass dust or talc although I've heard talc can result water absorption but if you've re-gelcoated or painted then should be OK) or off the shelf equivalent equivalent filler/marine filler.

I can't recommend a boat repair place near you though sorry.
thanks for the advice, it was your posts of your woes and some others that made me want to drill and put a bung in from under the floor I’m hoping to have found it before the rot sets in and I only got 500ml out of the new bilge hole so fingers crossed, I just used the hourglass epoxy method to fix some holes in the gunnels
and was really happy how they come out and think it would be fine for the transducer holes but it’s took me months to get round to those lol
 

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Hi, I cannot see the photos very well, but first off you need to clean the areas of oil, paint, muck, that need to be repair, then with some sanding or the areas for better adhesion, dust free wipes down with some recommended cleaner and completely dry, preferably in a warm dry place to do the repairs.
I’m lucky to have a workshop but I cannot keep the boat in there during the working day I’ve had it in there all over Xmas and had a space heater on it at times trying to dry it out but it will have to back outside tomo, I will make some calls and see if Seahog want to take it on but they are are 260 miles away so was hoping for something a bit closer. By the way the pics are just thumbnails they should open and be much clearer if you click on them.
 

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Are you going to be putting a transducer back on? I can see there is already one mounted next to the holes. Is this the only one and is it in decent position? Did you fit that yourself? You may have the same issue underneath that txdr.
Have you got an engine hoist you can more the outboard off the back easily with?
What makes you think the drainplug is leaking cant see evidence in the pictures.

Any marina in your local area will give you the number of a local grp repair guy but with such a small repair it would not make much sense unless the transom needs to be rebuilt completely.

Remove the engine and tackle it all at once.
As Jimmus says transom may have wicked water and be significantly worse than you think. Some small drill holes will show the extent. These can be dowelled and resined afterwards if all is good.
If all is good, with such small holes for the txdr, and the engine holes being covered by the engine mount the area will be very small and therefore minimally noticeable.
If youve already done repairs to the gunwales then you know what to do.
Drill the holes through from the outside, to guve reference from inside, then make sure to cut away back to clean, dry wood. Step the repair, keeping the plug hole as small as possible. Dont go through the transom gelcoat. Forstner drill bits are great for this. Any plug should be a snug fit but allow adequate resin to remain. Plugs can be cut with a holesaw. Outside will then require minimal work. The hardest part of getting an invisible repair would be matching the gelcoat colour, personally it should be barely noticeable so any white flowcoat will do.

check the current txdr to see if the same is not happening. It may be prudent to create a small grp txdr mounting pad that wont compromise the transom but will cover the existing holes.
The engine will hide the engine holes so id keep that minimal too.

If the plug has been installed correctly, the hole through the grp should have been properly sealed, and replacement would be a simple remove, add sealant and replace. Only if its been bodged or damaged should the transom be sodden around this area. It will be easy to see which it is once the plug is removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you going to be putting a transducer back on? I can see there is already one mounted next to the holes. Is this the only one and is it in decent position? Did you fit that yourself? You may have the same issue underneath that txdr.
Have you got an engine hoist you can more the outboard off the back easily with?
What makes you think the drainplug is leaking cant see evidence in the pictures.

Any marina in your local area will give you the number of a local grp repair guy but with such a small repair it would not make much sense unless the transom needs to be rebuilt completely.

Remove the engine and tackle it all at once.
As Jimmus says transom may have wicked water and be significantly worse than you think. Some small drill holes will show the extent. These can be dowelled and resined afterwards if all is good.
If all is good, with such small holes for the txdr, and the engine holes being covered by the engine mount the area will be very small and therefore minimally noticeable.
If youve already done repairs to the gunwales then you know what to do.
Drill the holes through from the outside, to guve reference from inside, then make sure to cut away back to clean, dry wood. Step the repair, keeping the plug hole as small as possible. Dont go through the transom gelcoat. Forstner drill bits are great for this. Any plug should be a snug fit but allow adequate resin to remain. Plugs can be cut with a holesaw. Outside will then require minimal work. The hardest part of getting an invisible repair would be matching the gelcoat colour, personally it should be barely noticeable so any white flowcoat will do.

check the current txdr to see if the same is not happening. It may be prudent to create a small grp txdr mounting pad that wont compromise the transom but will cover the existing holes.
The engine will hide the engine holes so id keep that minimal too.

If the plug has been installed correctly, the hole through the grp should have been properly sealed, and replacement would be a simple remove, add sealant and replace. Only if its been bodged or damaged should the transom be sodden around this area. It will be easy to see which it is once the plug is removed.
Hi thanks for the comprehensive reply I’m lucky to have a fully equipped workshop as I fix Hgv’s but I lack the time as there is always a paying customer that has to take priority and that’s the same for the workshop space although I could bring it in and out outside our normal working hours but on some occasions we have trucks that have to stay in if they don’t get finished my other concern is the weather if I have to bring it out unfinished although I can cover it to keep rain off I won’t be able to keep it heated to allow for epoxy to cure etc.
The other Txdr is a new one and has plenty of sealant in the holes and around the base I’m pretty sure the bad one is an old redundant one but need to double check before I remove it.
I do like your idea of a dedicated base for them though it is definitely something I will look into.

I have sent the same pics over to a local fibreglass firm for an estimate after chatting with them on the phone, I will have to remove the motor but I’d probably prefer that anyway, looking in the gallery on there website they do some smart work on high speed trains and some nice looking cars with some boat work to boot.

I tried getting hold of Seahog today with no joy I wonder if they have extended the Xmas break.
I’m not worried about the drain plug it’s that I have added another bung in the bilge through to under the floor inside the boat so I could see what was under there monitor any water getting in for the future.
I will report back when I get a price you never know I still may end up with the job lol
 

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Hi thanks for the comprehensive reply I’m lucky to have a fully equipped workshop as I fix Hgv’s but I lack the time as there is always a paying customer that has to take priority and that’s the same for the workshop space although I could bring it in and out outside our normal working hours but on some occasions we have trucks that have to stay in if they don’t get finished my other concern is the weather if I have to bring it out unfinished although I can cover it to keep rain off I won’t be able to keep it heated to allow for epoxy to cure etc.
The other Txdr is a new one and has plenty of sealant in the holes and around the base I’m pretty sure the bad one is an old redundant one but need to double check before I remove it.
I do like your idea of a dedicated base for them though it is definitely something I will look into.

I have sent the same pics over to a local fibreglass firm for an estimate after chatting with them on the phone, I will have to remove the motor but I’d probably prefer that anyway, looking in the gallery on there website they do some smart work on high speed trains and some nice looking cars with some boat work to boot.

I tried getting hold of Seahog today with no joy I wonder if they have extended the Xmas break.
I’m not worried about the drain plug it’s that I have added another bung in the bilge through to under the floor inside the boat so I could see what was under there monitor any water getting in for the future.
I will report back when I get a price you never know I still may end up with the job lol
With some planning you can minimise the time. Iys only the glasswork that needs heating, everything else can be done outside privuding it is kept dry. Even then you can aid glassing or do it in the morning and keep a heater on it throughout the day.
If all goes to plan (do they ever with boats?!) You will only have 5 small plugs to glue and glass in. Its the prep and exploratory that will take longer and theres no reason that cant be done outside on a dry day with a tarp over it to keep it dry when not working on it.

Goodluck.
 

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With some planning you can minimise the time. Iys only the glasswork that needs heating, everything else can be done outside privuding it is kept dry. Even then you can aid glassing or do it in the morning and keep a heater on it throughout the day.
If all goes to plan (do they ever with boats?!) You will only have 5 small plugs to glue and glass in. Its the prep and exploratory that will take longer and theres no reason that cant be done outside on a dry day with a tarp over it to keep it dry when not working on it.

Goodluck.
It may come bike to bite me down the line but I have accepted a quote of £300 to have it sorted which includes making good the aux engine bracket holes which I’m going to remove, there work looks top notch and they are saying they will only need it a couple of days. For that money it’s worth the piece of mind that it’s done right and with any luck if it does come out well I will have a local firm I can send it to should the need arise, saying that I’m wondering if it’s worth getting them to remove the old stickers and give the gel coat a freshen up as the new stickers from Seahog look pretty sharp imo...
It’s pencilled in for next week subject to me getting the outboard removed so I will post back how it goes.
 

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It may come bike to bite me down the line but I have accepted a quote of £300 to have it sorted which includes making good the aux engine bracket holes which I’m going to remove, there work looks top notch and they are saying they will only need it a couple of days. For that money it’s worth the piece of mind that it’s done right and with any luck if it does come out well I will have a local firm I can send it to should the need arise, saying that I’m wondering if it’s worth getting them to remove the old stickers and give the gel coat a freshen up as the new stickers from Seahog look pretty sharp imo...
It’s pencilled in for next week subject to me getting the outboard removed so I will post back how it goes.
Thats not bad at all to be fair. Fingers crossed the transom is solid for you.
It would also be interesting to know what a grp specialist would charge for an 18ftish boat transom rebuild. It may sway some people on here to get a pro job instead of tackling it themselves, some of who in the past have had us forumites a bit worried!
 

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Thats not bad at all to be fair. Fingers crossed the transom is solid for you.
It would also be interesting to know what a grp specialist would charge for an 18ftish boat transom rebuild. It may sway some people on here to get a pro job instead of tackling it themselves, some of who in the past have had us forumites a bit worried!
I also wondered myself so I will be sure to ask if it’s something they would do and how much it would be
 

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Well it went in for its repairs today and they have called and sounded positive now they have seen it in person they have adjusted the estimate as there was some more damage I found yesterday once the outboard was off, it looks like the splashwell wasn’t attached to the transom (looks like it’s been cut apart rather than broken) and it had been siliconed together with what looked like bathroom sealant and had an aluminium strip over it which was coming away, the have already cut out the damage and are confident they can make good so fingers crossed
1358491
 

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Well it’s back already... it’s ok, I think they have done a great job on the join in the transom to the splash well which was the extra unexpected work which I think is where they spent a lot of there time. The inside of the boat came out well too, the only bit I’m a bit gutted about is the holes on the outside of the transom as they are far more visible than I was hoping they’d be.
I can’t complain for £400 especially as they have done such a great job of the top of the transom and now it’s all sealed. I will probably put the aux engine mount back on to cover that repair and at least the other repair is at the bottom.
I would say overall it’s a good job especially considering the time and price maybe I can report back in 12 months to update how it’s holding up.
1358589

1358590
 
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