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Discussion Starter #1
I am under the impression that rocky/weedy ground is likely to hold more fish than the featureless seabed off the breakwater that I fish from, is this true and if so, what can I do to reduce tackle losses when fishing those rocky spots? My rod only really starts working with at least 4oz of lead on the rig so float fishing seems to be out of the question...
 

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take it ure fishing about the cove area? i dont personallly, prefer newtonhill, but some of the ground is the same. theres no way not to loose tackle but there is ways to keep it to a minimum so you will only usually loose weights. you can use rotten bottoms, either just weaker line on the weight lenght or you can buy them from tackle shops. one suggestion would be that if you have not already, buy your own weight mould in the end it will save you a fortune. hope this helps.
 

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On the weight mould subject - how do you make weights? I've seen the moulds but don't know where to go from there.

Cheers

PS You can get some pretty big floats, but not sure if they go as big as 4oz. :eek:
 

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Don't just use a peice of weaker line for the link to the weight!! This is likely to snap when you're casting and can be very dangerous. One guy has been killed by a snapped off lead and one of my mates had one go through his cheek and rip the side of his face off.
 

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Making your own weights Blenny is straight forward as long as you are careful.

Simply melt lead in an aluminium pan on a cooker (or similar if you are not allowed a-hmm!) Make sure you don't put too much in the pan at a time as the lead will take longer to melt and the pan will be heavy. When you melt it use a spoon to scrape out any bits of burnt paint or foreign bodies. Make sure that nothing is wet as hot lead has a tendency to spit if water goes near it.

Before pouring the lead into the mould make sure it is clean and dry. If I'm using a conventional mould I use a paperclip, with one of the bits stretched out, as my wire. Place the wire in the mould, close the mould so it is locked in place, and pour the lead in. It only takes a minute or so for the lead to set.

Open up the mould and tap the weight(s) out.

Simple...

A word of caution though....wear good heat proof gloves (welders) and don't touch the mould without the gloves on, even for a split second. Hot lead can cause serious injury.
 

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Thanks for the info on making weights - where do you buy lead? Is it poisonous in its liquid state (ie fumes etc)?

Blenny
 

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Scapyards are the best places to get lead. Phone up any local scrap dealers and see if they sell it.
Either that or if you've any builder mates see if they can get some for you. Lead is/was used for flashings around windows/chimneys etc and for piping.

I don't think the vapours are particulary harmful (I may be wrong!!) and I've never suffered any adverse effects. It is better to melt outside but I just open my back door and windows to let air circulate. I actually like the smell of molten lead. It's my girlfriend who doesn't!!

I think if it was harmful to touch it there wouldn't be many fishermen left :)
 

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i found this on the net.

There is no risk at all in handling lead metal. It cannot be absorbed through the skin or the respiratory tract. Dilute hydrochloric acid has little effect on it, so the lead would pass through the stomach before any damage was done. Eating lead is probably safe, but not encouraged. Carbonated water dissolves lead to some degree. Food and drink should never touch lead, since organic acids, such as acetic acid, may dissolve lead. Lead is, on the whole, very much less a hazard than mercury. It was made dangerous by its widespread use in paint and motor fuel, and that is now past.


so youll be fine :)
 

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Your local plumber should have plenty scrap lead which is ideal for making weights, best of all they might give you it for free. I have never melted lead in the house, seems a bit scary to me. I use a blow-torch, its take no time at all and I reckon it is a good bit safer.


Al
 

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Discussion Starter #11
fish force said:
Don't just use a peice of weaker line for the link to the weight!! This is likely to snap when you're casting and can be very dangerous. One guy has been killed by a snapped off lead and one of my mates had one go through his cheek and rip the side of his face off.

This is what I don't understand - isn't the idea of using a weak link for the lead something strictly for boat fishing?
I mean I use a 60lb shock leader when im casting 4-6oz of lead so it seems pretty stupid to use a weak link to attach the lead.
Any ideas on how to minimise tackle loss over rough ground from a beachcaster perspective?
 

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Hi Kuffar

A pulley or pulley pennel rig incorporating a weak link is a great way of fishing rough ground.

Use Aberdeen style hooks such as mustad fine wire patterns which will bend under strain and help you pull free from snags.

Use minimum 60lb line for the main trace body through to the lead. Use a wire rotten bottom link tied to the 60lb line, and then tie 15lb line to the link, and the other end to the lead. When you are about to cast, hook the lead onto the rotten bottom link and cast as far as you like as the link takes all the strain. When the lead hits the water, it falls off the link and then only the 15lb line is attached to the trace.

If you hook a fish, but the lead gets snagged, the 15lb line should break, and you get the fish. Make sure your hook length is a higher breaking strain than your weak link.

Another thing you can do is use 60lb line straight through to the lead, but use gripper leads. The wires of the leads stop the lead falling into cracks in the rock, and if they do snag - you can still bend the wires and pull free from a lot of snags. Buy the cheapest gripper leads you can find as they have thinner wire which can bend easier than the dearer brands. (Somers in Bon Accord Terrace in Aberdeen have some of the cheaper ones). I usually use this method when fishing the Aberdeenshire coast as I can pull free from most areas. If in really rough ground though, I do use the rotten bottom links.

The rotten bottom links can be either the hook type, or you can use an upside down gemini lead link with integral bait clip (this was a great tip I learned on this site.

Once you cast, let the lead sink, tension up the line - but do not move the lead at all, as you will just pull into snags. When ready to retrieve to change bait - take up any slack and strike and wind like mad to clear the snags. You can try a lead lift if you like - but I have never bothered with these.
 

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Get down the scrap yard and pick up a load of used sparkplugs.
Hammer the end down and hey presto a cheap and expendable fishing weight. Although just under 4oz it should work fine for rough ground fishing and if your rotten bottom brakes so what?

mmn fish weight vapours me make no more get plugs for sparks!! :confused:
 

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lewisteh said:
The rotten bottom links can be either the hook type, or you can use an upside down gemini lead link with integral bait clip (this was a great tip I learned on this site.
Was that on the main site or a post, always looking for new ideas me sounds like a goodie
 

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Hi Biogenesis

It was a post on the forums. I think it was by Manx Fisher. A great tip I thought.
 

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Lets not confuse things with talk of spark plugs..>!!!

At the bottom of your rig, you need to tie on a device... Iether the gemini rottr system which works a treat for casting, but for cllose in cod fishing buy one o the s shaped clips. Clip the lead onto the bottom of it, when you cast the lead should fall off... Just dont forget to ties weaker line from your rig body to the lead!
 

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if ur using spark plugs or can make ur own leads.
one tip is use a strong paper clip if you are not casting distance but fishing over rough ground your line will break free and just leave the lead.
i use this method on the boat and works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
lewisteh said:
Use minimum 60lb line for the main trace body through to the lead. Use a wire rotten bottom link tied to the 60lb line, and then tie 15lb line to the link, and the other end to the lead. When you are about to cast, hook the lead onto the rotten bottom link and cast as far as you like as the link takes all the strain. When the lead hits the water, it falls off the link and then only the 15lb line is attached to the trace.
Thanks, this is exactly what I was after! I am fed up with loosing 20ft of shockleader along with the rest of my rig every time I hit a serious snag.
 

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This is the type of clip I usually use. Hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
lewisteh said:
This is the type of clip I usually use. Hope it helps.

Ahh that makes sense to me, I think. It's like a baitclip but upside down, and presumably made of some stronger metal?

Looks a hell of a lot less complicated than this gemini breaker clip anyway

 
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