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A stick thread by Phil Hyde:

There are a few guidelines to follow; not rules, as you can ignore them if you wish, although doing so may make things more difficult.

1. To cast we need to store energy in the rod. If the rod is too stiff, it will prove difficult to bend.

2. To bend the rod, and store this energy, the load must either remain still, or travel slower than the rod. (best description I could manage!)

3. If we use the inertia of the lead to load the rod, the weight MUST remain within the arc of the rod. If the weight moves outside the tip, at the wrong time, the resulting centrifugal force generated will either burn your thumb, cause a crack – off, or both.

4. The HI – INERTIA cast is designed to get the line from the rod tip and the weight pulling through the rod at 90 degrees to the butt with the rod fully loaded. This is the point where the “Pull – Push” is executed, and is when the weight does move outside the tip. The resultant acceleration due to the now correctly applied centrifugal force accelerates the weight with apparently no effort.

5. The most interesting point here is that the rod tip will still be bent at 90 degrees as the weight goes past and on its way. The rod tip now has no load, and the final straightening is what accelerates the reel spool to full speed. If the tip is badly designed, over-rung, or with inappropriate ringing patterns, the resultant tip overshoot is the cause of the unexplained crack – off that happens when the lead has travelled 25 to 50 yards. Relaxing your grip on the rod butt as the lead departs can eliminate this overshoot, in the same way that relaxing your grip when flycasting, on delivering the cast, eliminates the “wavy line”, also caused by rod tip overshoot.

6. FINALLY, use HALF the effort you think you are going to need[/B], let the rod do the work, so you don’t have to!!

THOSE ARE THE GUIDELINES, A PASSPORT TO SUCCESS.
Over the years this casting method has been called the “Zoom”cast, Unitech, Easycast, Brighton, they all have one thing in common – they are the best pathway to success when learning to cast, with fixed-spool or multiplier reels.

The following normally is part of a three or four X 2-hour sessions on a beach convenient to all, without too many dogs & owners (and funny guys asking “Have you caught anything?”)

Part 1-The 90 Degree myth
Almost all the writings concerning casting methods refer to the off-the-ground method as starting with the rod at 7.30 ( the cast direction is at 12.00), also known as 45 degrees, and with the line from the rod tip to the weight and rig at 90 degrees to the rod. IF the rod was absolutely rigid, then this might work if the user could accelerate continuously from the start to the delivery of the weight & bait. Unfortunately we need a bite indication capability in the rod, and also the facility to store energy so that the cast becomes easier…there is a lot of truth in the words often written, “the rod is too stiff for the user”.

Once you have paid your money and walked out of the shop, you are too late to change, and if you got a “freebie”, you don’t look a gift horse in the mouth! So, whats wrong with the 45 degree: 90 degree method? And why doesn’t it work? Well it does work after a fashion, but due to the fact that when this method is used the rod is foreshortened (compressed/BENT!) as soon as the rod moves, the angle between the rod butt and the weight immediately exceeds 90 degrees, and the weight travels outside the tip. This premature “outing” of the weight/bait generates centrifugal force. Due to the use of force to compensate for this outing, this is a MAJOR cause of dangerous crackoffs, as the weight is pulling along the length of the line, rather than pulling the rod into its full compression curve. It is relatively easy to break 80lb leaders this way and is why many casters have to use a “thumbie”. A real expert can cast colossal distances with a FISHING rod with almost no effort and no thumbie, and in some ways is a disappointment to watch. Pictures of casters grimacing and gritting their teeth just mean the caster involved is perhaps not as good as he/she thinks!

Part 2 The transition point
What the hell is a transition point? Lets look at the classic off-the ground cast with an inside layout. This cast EXACTLY emulates what happens in a well – executed classic Pendulum cast, which is what everyone seems to want to do these days.

The cast (OTG or Pendulob) consists of two parts.
1. The Javelin pull through.
2. The turn – over.

The Javelin pull occurs as the leading hand guides the rod butt upwards, the up – rod hand following.

The turn – over occurs when the leading hand can go no further. The lead hand then pulls the butt round and in to the solar plexus. CAUTION!! If the butt of your rod is too long, you may wind yourself!! This is where the Transition occurs. If you have compressed your rod, your weight/bait will have moved to align itself to pull at 90 degrees to the rod butt WITH THE ROD BENT AT 90 DEGREES, and the transition is from an INSIDE to an OUTSIDE the rod tip position. This is where REAL distance is generated. The weight/bait is travelling fast, and to change its direction would need an extra input of energy. This is why the weight GOES ROUND THE OUTSIDE from this point, as its direction cannot change!! From this point, the weight (and bait) follow a path that is similar to a Fibonacci sequence curve (it is not a true Fibonacci curve, think snail-shell spiral). As the rod turns over, (the pull and push on the rod butt), the centrifugal force that with the first method could have caused a disaster, now comes to our assistance. The rod now begins to recover from compression, and as the weight/bait is already moving, there is no extra pressure applied to the shock leader to cause a crack-off, and the weight/bait goes past the tip of the rod while the tip is STILL BENT AT 90 DEGREES. With a well – designed rod, the tip then straightens AS THE LEAD GOES BY and whips the reel spool up to top speed. Here can be a problem, a “Technology mismatch”. If you have a modern lightweight 21st century blank, and it is equipped with the heavy clumsy rings from the ‘70’s, and specially the DIAMITE tip ring from the 1960’s, this is where rod recoil and subsequent overshoot can occur, this is the cause of the unexplainable crack-off’s that occur between 20 and 50 yards out. What happens is the rod overshoots, and pulls another couple of feet of line from the spool. This line has no-where to go, as the weight cannot accelerate to take up the slack. A side wind can help, but the usual result is a messy over-run and a snap-off, and in a competition could be a disaster!!

The above information is based on logic backed up by simple scientific facts. The model rod will demonstrate the above effects if this handout accompanies a booked demonstration – it is up to you to use the information if you wish. A smoother cast will deliver bait more efficiently and with less chance of damage to the bait.

Part 3 - Want to go further?
Having learnt the basic cast, with the target on a clockface at 12 o-clock, and the start at 6 o-clock, there is nothing to prevent a caster from extending the arc the rod travels through. I demonstrate 2 ways, the first needs no casting skill, merely the ability to do a 2-step. The first essential it to put the rod tip on the beach/ground/grass, wherever you are casting/fishing/practicing, (the Tip ring won’t wear out!) and DO NOT MOVE IT. Now with the reel out of gear, and you are ready to cast, take 2 paces forward so you rotate around the stationary rod tip ring. This opens the angle at the rod tip, and allows a bigger arc for the rod to travel through. The rod should travel through the cast at an angle of between 45 and 60 degrees, NOT STRAIGHT OVERHEAD. The second method is to swing the weight away, and then back inside the rod tip, with the rod at your choice of 6.30, 7.00, 7.30, even 8.00, the line from rod tip to the weight should be parallel to where the line was with the weight at 6 o-clock. The delivery angle remains as the 2-step method. A smooth cast, accelerating rather than just thrashing full out will ensure the survival of your rod tip. I have heard a lot of rumours of rod tips
snapping-off using hi-inertia techniques, but have not seen one myself in 40 years. Any questions about these methods, you are welcome to call or PM me, I'll get back ASAP.

© Phil Hyde, 2014.
 

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The diagram was taken from an article I published in 1987 in Sea Angler's quarterly magazine. From pics and home videos, we now know that the weight takes a much wider arc than shown in the diagram. Otherwise, the written description of how to try this still stands. I demonstrate how quickly the line to the weight reaches the 90 degrees to the rod butt by performing a 2-dimensional cast, having pre-drawn the arc of the uncompressed rod in the sand prior to the 2-dimension cast. This also shows just how quickly the weight accelerates as it flies outside the rod, using centrifugal force, and goes past the still-bent rodtip, which straightens immediately after the weight has gone on its way . Again, any questions, PM me, and i'll get back ASAP

Phil

PTR
 

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As soon as friend Alex can spare time, we will go down on the beach and video what I have described 2 posts ago. I unfortunately cannot video myself, and need a cameraman who knows where the weight is going to go. Most are quite stupid, and try to do a John Darling, with the lens almost up your nose!!! My new device does a mean slo=mo, so I'm looking forward to trying it out, it will make explanations of what happens when casting easy - a picture paints a thousand words.

Phil

PTR
 
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CASTING COACHING SESSIONS 2014-2015
If you want to learn to cast with a multiplier, OR fixed-spool. I WILL BE RUNNING WINTER SESSIONS , free sessions on Saturday afternoons on Goodrington sands, or Preston Sands, Paignton providing I haven't been already booked by the Angling Trust or a local club for one of their events. In summer, when the sands are polluted by holidaying visitors, I do Monday evenings at the same venu, until someone makes a bad cast into the saloon bar and we out of courtesy have to go retrieve it! These winter sessions are as always weather dependent. Warm clothing and a waterproof is recommended.
You will need to bring rod, reel, line, leader, weights, rodrest, wellies and a willingness to try something different. I usually have 2 or 3 rods which budding casters can try with their own reel.
If you want to come along just to watch, you are welcome to do so.
To check whether there is a session, and where, PM or phone on 01803 409127 or 07722299943 well before. Remember, this is aimed at those struggling, not those who can already crack the 190 yard +, and just want to show how good they are.

Phil

PTR
 

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I want to share something that to cast powerfully and smoothly it is essential not only to stand comfortably but also to be properly aligned with the target. The basic stance is quickly discovered by swinging the rod as if it were a hammer.Imagine that the tip ring is the hammer-head. Hit towards the aerial target using exactly the same pushpull arm action that you would use with a long-handled hammer. It’s really that easy.Notice that your stance took care of itself. Most people’s feet settle at about shoulders’ width apart. If a line were drawn through the heels, it would angle slightly to the left.This natural stance allows the body to work efficiently – and what works for hammering is excellent for casting as well.
 

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A stick thread by Phil Hyde:

There are a few guidelines to follow; not rules, as you can ignore them if you wish, although doing so may make things more difficult.

1. To cast we need to store energy in the rod. If the rod is too stiff, it will prove difficult to bend.

2. To bend the rod, and store this energy, the load must either remain still, or travel slower than the rod. (best description I could manage!)

3. If we use the inertia of the lead to load the rod, the weight MUST remain within the arc of the rod. If the weight moves outside the tip, at the wrong time, the resulting centrifugal force generated will either burn your thumb, cause a crack – off, or both.

4. The HI – INERTIA cast is designed to get the line from the rod tip and the weight pulling through the rod at 90 degrees to the butt with the rod fully loaded. This is the point where the “Pull – Push” is executed, and is when the weight does move outside the tip. The resultant acceleration due to the now correctly applied centrifugal force accelerates the weight with apparently no effort.

5. The most interesting point here is that the rod tip will still be bent at 90 degrees as the weight goes past and on its way. The rod tip now has no load, and the final straightening is what accelerates the reel spool to full speed. If the tip is badly designed, over-rung, or with inappropriate ringing patterns, the resultant tip overshoot is the cause of the unexplained crack – off that happens when the lead has travelled 25 to 50 yards. Relaxing your grip on the rod butt as the lead departs can eliminate this overshoot, in the same way that relaxing your grip when flycasting, on delivering the cast, eliminates the “wavy line”, also caused by rod tip overshoot.

6. FINALLY, use HALF the effort you think you are going to need[/B], let the rod do the work, so you don’t have to!!

THOSE ARE THE GUIDELINES, A PASSPORT TO SUCCESS.
Over the years this casting method has been called the “Zoom”cast, Unitech, Easycast, Brighton, they all have one thing in common – they are the best pathway to success when learning to cast, with fixed-spool or multiplier reels.

The following normally is part of a three or four X 2-hour sessions on a beach convenient to all, without too many dogs & owners (and funny guys asking “Have you caught anything?”)

Part 1-The 90 Degree myth
Almost all the writings concerning casting methods refer to the off-the-ground method as starting with the rod at 7.30 ( the cast direction is at 12.00), also known as 45 degrees, and with the line from the rod tip to the weight and rig at 90 degrees to the rod. IF the rod was absolutely rigid, then this might work if the user could accelerate continuously from the start to the delivery of the weight & bait. Unfortunately we need a bite indication capability in the rod, and also the facility to store energy so that the cast becomes easier…there is a lot of truth in the words often written, “the rod is too stiff for the user”.

Once you have paid your money and walked out of the shop, you are too late to change, and if you got a “freebie”, you don’t look a gift horse in the mouth! So, whats wrong with the 45 degree: 90 degree method? And why doesn’t it work? Well it does work after a fashion, but due to the fact that when this method is used the rod is foreshortened (compressed/BENT!) as soon as the rod moves, the angle between the rod butt and the weight immediately exceeds 90 degrees, and the weight travels outside the tip. This premature “outing” of the weight/bait generates centrifugal force. Due to the use of force to compensate for this outing, this is a MAJOR cause of dangerous crackoffs, as the weight is pulling along the length of the line, rather than pulling the rod into its full compression curve. It is relatively easy to break 80lb leaders this way and is why many casters have to use a “thumbie”. A real expert can cast colossal distances with a FISHING rod with almost no effort and no thumbie, and in some ways is a disappointment to watch. Pictures of casters grimacing and gritting their teeth just mean the caster involved is perhaps not as good as he/she thinks!

Part 2 The transition point
What the hell is a transition point? Lets look at the classic off-the ground cast with an inside layout. This cast EXACTLY emulates what happens in a well – executed classic Pendulum cast, which is what everyone seems to want to do these days.

The cast (OTG or Pendulob) consists of two parts.
1. The Javelin pull through.
2. The turn – over.

The Javelin pull occurs as the leading hand guides the rod butt upwards, the up – rod hand following.

The turn – over occurs when the leading hand can go no further. The lead hand then pulls the butt round and in to the solar plexus. CAUTION!! If the butt of your rod is too long, you may wind yourself!! This is where the Transition occurs. If you have compressed your rod, your weight/bait will have moved to align itself to pull at 90 degrees to the rod butt WITH THE ROD BENT AT 90 DEGREES, and the transition is from an INSIDE to an OUTSIDE the rod tip position. This is where REAL distance is generated. The weight/bait is travelling fast, and to change its direction would need an extra input of energy. This is why the weight GOES ROUND THE OUTSIDE from this point, as its direction cannot change!! From this point, the weight (and bait) follow a path that is similar to a Fibonacci sequence curve (it is not a true Fibonacci curve, think snail-shell spiral). As the rod turns over, (the pull and push on the rod butt), the centrifugal force that with the first method could have caused a disaster, now comes to our assistance. The rod now begins to recover from compression, and as the weight/bait is already moving, there is no extra pressure applied to the shock leader to cause a crack-off, and the weight/bait goes past the tip of the rod while the tip is STILL BENT AT 90 DEGREES. With a well – designed rod, the tip then straightens AS THE LEAD GOES BY and whips the reel spool up to top speed. Here can be a problem, a “Technology mismatch”. If you have a modern lightweight 21st century blank, and it is equipped with the heavy clumsy rings from the ‘70’s, and specially the DIAMITE tip ring from the 1960’s, this is where rod recoil and subsequent overshoot can occur, this is the cause of the unexplainable crack-off’s that occur between 20 and 50 yards out. What happens is the rod overshoots, and pulls another couple of feet of line from the spool. This line has no-where to go, as the weight cannot accelerate to take up the slack. A side wind can help, but the usual result is a messy over-run and a snap-off, and in a competition could be a disaster!!

The above information is based on logic backed up by simple scientific facts. The model rod will demonstrate the above effects if this handout accompanies a booked demonstration – it is up to you to use the information if you wish. A smoother cast will deliver bait more efficiently and with less chance of damage to the bait.

Part 3 - Want to go further?
Having learnt the basic cast, with the target on a clockface at 12 o-clock, and the start at 6 o-clock, there is nothing to prevent a caster from extending the arc the rod travels through. I demonstrate 2 ways, the first needs no casting skill, merely the ability to do a 2-step. The first essential it to put the rod tip on the beach/ground/grass, wherever you are casting/fishing/practicing, (the Tip ring won’t wear out!) and DO NOT MOVE IT. Now with the reel out of gear, and you are ready to cast, take 2 paces forward so you rotate around the stationary rod tip ring. This opens the angle at the rod tip, and allows a bigger arc for the rod to travel through. The rod should travel through the cast at an angle of between 45 and 60 degrees, NOT STRAIGHT OVERHEAD. The second method is to swing the weight away, and then back inside the rod tip, with the rod at your choice of 6.30, 7.00, 7.30, even 8.00, the line from rod tip to the weight should be parallel to where the line was with the weight at 6 o-clock. The delivery angle remains as the 2-step method. A smooth cast, accelerating rather than just thrashing full out will ensure the survival of your rod tip. I have heard a lot of rumours of rod tips
snapping-off using hi-inertia techniques, but have not seen one myself in 40 years. Any questions about these methods, you are welcome to call or PM me, I'll get back ASAP.

© Phil Hyde, 2014.
Name me ONE REAL EXPERT who can cast COLOSSAL distances without a thumbie. With almost no effort?? And be prepared to back it up !..Fibonacci curve?? I don't agree!!!
 

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now what takes time to recover when you cast?
 

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Steve,

I always do "keep it friendly", Mate . . .

For those who feel the need to be "uncivilized" ( note the "z" - I'm in the USA - LOL ), let the punishment suit their stupidity !

Cheers & Tight Lines !

Dave
 

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Perfection was Mackellow end of!
 

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Its more interesting than john holden imagining a big hammer and a target up in tbe sky...
But when you say the rod is at 7.30... I can't imagine that, do you mean 1.35? I'm honestly not taking the **** but 7.30 seems a rather acute angle unless it had a hinge, by 7.30 do you mean the butt is at 7 and the tip at 30?
I seem to have stumbled at the first hurdle sorry.
Please explain its a very interesting post and I'm a bit thick.

I've used plenty of hammers but not like that, unless you mean pull down with the left hand..would it not be better in a throwing the hammer style like the Scots do in the highland games? It's to hard to explain.
 

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Johnnybass - it depends if the clockface is on the ground with ‘12’ being the direction of the cast - it then makes sense.

Try this -
 
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