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Ive really struggled with the best way to rig a float for Shore and inshore boat fishing but have finally settled on this method as the best for me
No swivels- The negative aspect for this is that you have to re-tie after a break off and it may twist but i love the simplicity.
Also following advice from Shane Joy i started taking the stick out of the middle of weighted floats so the line slides through.
Beads and float stops of the right size.
Set your depth and vary line size for species, conditions and bottom.
The only addition not mentioned in the video is shot on the hook snood well away from the bait in faster flowing tides.
Ill trial this now and see how it goes but so far easy to cast and land fish from a kayak and beach.
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That does look nice and simple, especially for fishing close in. I am trying to use a clipped rig for casting up to about 50 yards using a small juice bottle as the float and a 4oz weight. I can get the distance easily enough but always get tangles, hence the idea of using a clipped rig but I'm having bother with it. Any ideas?
 

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That does look nice and simple, especially for fishing close in. I am trying to use a clipped rig for casting up to about 50 yards using a small juice bottle as the float and a 4oz weight. I can get the distance easily enough but always get tangles, hence the idea of using a clipped rig but I'm having bother with it. Any ideas?
Feather your cast, so you flick the baited hook past the float, and i always pull on, wind on a little line just to make sure the bait is not tangled around the float, all in a nice straight line for fishing, if it's tangle it's not fishing re wind in, untangle and re cast, as above post a small split shot above the hook.
 

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If I remember to open the bail arm it's a good day, the chances of me feathering a 4oz weight with a juice bottle as a float are extremely remote. Not that I have any idea what feathering is mind you.......
 

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If I remember to open the bail arm it's a good day, the chances of me feathering a 4oz weight with a juice bottle as a float are extremely remote. Not that I have any idea what feathering is mind you.......
Hi Basically you are controlling the cast with your finger on the spool after you cast out, so the bait hits the water first then the float, and to be honest i would not try it with a drink bottle and a four ozs lead. Normally you get yourself a weighted sea float Streamline, cigar shape 1 ozs which is fine, and it will cast a fair distance and your presentation should be good.
 

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There is a mark that is very heavy ground and a lot of kelp resulting in a tackle graveyard. I'm trying to figure out how to set up a float rig to reach it as I think it could be very productive, but can't get out far enough with my normal float setup, hence the heavier gear.
 

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That does look nice and simple, especially for fishing close in. I am trying to use a clipped rig for casting up to about 50 yards using a small juice bottle as the float and a 4oz weight. I can get the distance easily enough but always get tangles, hence the idea of using a clipped rig but I'm having bother with it. Any ideas?

if you plan to fish at a depth which is greater than the length of the rod , use a "slider " set up .

glue a swivel into the bottom of your float .a nice big one is good . - pass the line thro this..
add a stop bead to the line above the float and then make a stop knot ( 2 are better) fixed at the required depth . leave "ears" on the knot so it cannot go thro the bead . make the ears 1.5" or so . shorter ones will catch on the rod rings.

you can wind the knot onto the reel , thus you can cast out and fish at any desired depth . 100ft is not unreasonable on a boat - the knot will pass easily thro the rod rings , and the lead will pull the line thro the swivel until the stop bead cocks the float .

this set up is tangle free and easy to manage . the stop knot may move after repeated casting so you may want to mark the line with a felt pen to remind you of the starting point .

if you wish to move the stop knot according to the tide or whatever , remember to wet the main line to avoid friction burn on the line
sliding-knot_lrg.jpg
 

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There is a mark that is very heavy ground and a lot of kelp resulting in a tackle graveyard. I'm trying to figure out how to set up a float rig to reach it as I think it could be very productive, but can't get out far enough with my normal float setup, hence the heavier gear.
Have you tried using the current drift or different tides, even the wind assist the float, use a drifter float or casting up tide to trot the float to the area, obviously you need to let more line out.
 

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This is how I usually rig my floats.

There is a mark that is very heavy ground and a lot of kelp resulting in a tackle graveyard. I'm trying to figure out how to set up a float rig to reach it as I think it could be very productive, but can't get out far enough with my normal float setup, hence the heavier gear.
In response to this you could try using small balloons, I witnessed local boys in the caribbean using balloons and letting the wind take livebaits 300 yards out on their handlines. When a fish picks up the balloon pops. then they just ran in the other direction hauling the line behind them.

Super D.. Great diagram of the stop knot. I like it a lot.
 
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Hi Basically you are controlling the cast with your finger on the spool after you cast out, so the bait hits the water first then the float, and to be honest i would not try it with a drink bottle and a four ozs lead. Normally you get yourself a weighted sea float Streamline, cigar shape 1 ozs which is fine, and it will cast a fair distance and your presentation should be good.
The guy in our local tackle shop just made something for me, I have a fairly heavy egg shaped float made from plastic, he drilled a hole in the side and stick a piece of metal in there so it acts similar to a clip down rig and you can hang your hook on it when casting, this means you can have twice the length of line below your float, I use an 11' 6" rod so 15-20 ft should be possible.

If it's helpful I can put a picture up
 

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The guy in our local tackle shop just made something for me, I have a fairly heavy egg shaped float made from plastic, he drilled a hole in the side and stick a piece of metal in there so it acts similar to a clip down rig and you can hang your hook on it when casting, this means you can have twice the length of line below your float, I use an 11' 6" rod so 15-20 ft should be possible.

If it's helpful I can put a picture up
Please do. I'd be quite interested to see this.
 

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if you plan to fish at a depth which is greater than the length of the rod , use a "slider " set up .

glue a swivel into the bottom of your float .a nice big one is good . - pass the line thro this..
add a stop bead to the line above the float and then make a stop knot ( 2 are better) fixed at the required depth . leave "ears" on the knot so it cannot go thro the bead . make the ears 1.5" or so . shorter ones will catch on the rod rings.

you can wind the knot onto the reel , thus you can cast out and fish at any desired depth . 100ft is not unreasonable on a boat - the knot will pass easily thro the rod rings , and the lead will pull the line thro the swivel until the stop bead cocks the float .

this set up is tangle free and easy to manage . the stop knot may move after repeated casting so you may want to mark the line with a felt pen to remind you of the starting point .

if you wish to move the stop knot according to the tide or whatever , remember to wet the main line to avoid friction burn on the line View attachment 1099661


to further elaborate on the above , I should have added some info on the terminal tackle.

South of the float , you MUST use drilled bullet lead(s) . followed by a bead , and then a swivel . if you wish , you can fix a split shot or similar to keep the float away from the leads . (this is what I do . Then attach your hook length to the swivel .. my personal preference is to have the split shot arranged so the float is stopped further from the leads than the hook length is long . this avoids the possibility of the bait getting tangled with the float .
bullets are reasonably streamlined so good for long casting , and you can introduce a bait clip if desired

while I see why the OP dislikes swivels and I would normally agree with him , they do have their uses , one of which is being a good solid stop.

another good use for this rig is long trotting down the tide at a controlled depth with a string of feathers for mackerel . just stop the line now and again as it runs out to give some movement to the feathers .NB if you try this , keep the leads in position as described above . let the feathers hang free - or use a small bomb at the end of the feather string to keep them tidy when casting and holding back as they travel down the tide . 1/2 oz. max or you will get tangles
 
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Please do. I'd be quite interested to see this.
This is what he knocked together so you can hang your hook on the little stick and have a longer line length.

I need to change the set up a little bit and use a small weight so it will keep the line straight and maybe a few more modifcations

unspecified.jpg
 

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I take it in the photo that the free end of the swivel will have your snood with weight and then running back up to the float peg? It looks like the sort of thing I'm after and will have to give it a go. I think I might try a small pop rivet as the peg. Thanks for this.
 
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I take it in the photo that the free end of the swivel will have your snood with weight and then running back up to the float peg? It looks like the sort of thing I'm after and will have to give it a go. I think I might try a small pop rivet as the peg. Thanks for this.
Yep that's right, it's a fixed float though so you'd have to adjust the length, I was planning to use this for live baits
 

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I just use a couple of stopknots and a sliding cigar float with a drilled bullett and a swivel about 1 foot from the hook
 
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