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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so this weekend I finally took the plunge and bought my first multiplier (Ambassador 6500). I knew it may take a bit of getting used to, but 2 trips later frustration is starting to set in. I have been casting 3-4 oz, initially using a 50lb shock leader, but the knot kept catching on the line guide, I then reduced to 35lb which does not catch. Its loaded with 15lb line. I keep encountering the following problems

1. If I tighten the brake as per the instructions (so that the weight only drops 10" when you flex the rod tip) I can only cast about 25 yds.

2. If I loosen the brake so that the weight will decend slowly, my cast goes up to 40-50 yds, but after a while (say 10 casts) the line snaps. The break does not appear to occur at the shock leader knot, but small tangles appear on the spool and I suspect this is where the break is occuring.

I am no casting champion, but was consistently getting 80-90 yds with my old fixed spool reel. Any tips out there?
 

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first off you would have been better off posting this in the general section.

Next ignore the instructions they are aimed at lure fishing so you can throw the instruction book in the bin.

Now onto the useful stuff, adjust the spool so there is just the slightest amount of side to side movement in the spool,

35 pound shock leader should be fine with the weights you're using as it dosen't sound as though you're a power caster,

Take off the side plate with the handle and check that the brake blocks have not been contaminated with oil as this will stop them working.

What weight mainline are you using as with your spool tension set so high you should not be getting birds nests.

If all else fails try to find someone local to you who may help you out.
 

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Hi Tyn,

First and foremost - have you inserted the brake blocks? They come in the packet with the oil and spanner. As a "Newbie" you must use them, when you become proficient they can be taken out.

Again as a "Newbie" hand tighten, the knurled knob on the handle side. Then ensure that the spool has no side play, this is adjusted by the knurled knob on the side opposite the handle (LHS). Anti - clockwise to slacken, clockwise to tighten.

Ideally these knobs are to centralise the spool, but for now, follow the above instructons. You can slightly tighten the left hand side (LHS) a fraction more but not too much. THERE SHOULD BE NO SIDE MOVEMENT Your reel is now set up to cast with.

I would suggest, to start off with, slide the black slider to number 6, just practise a gentle lob with your thumb on top of the spool, i.e. to control the speed of the spool. When the lead hits the water you must stop the spool with your thumb, otherwise you will end up with a birdsnest. What ever you do "Under no circumstance"go for distance. This will eventually come with practise.

As with everything else there is a learning period. Be patient and practise, before you take the plunge and start fishing with your reel. We all had to learn, some of us had help from friends and some had to learn by themselves.

I hope this helps, no doubt someone else will have a different method but that was the way I was shown. It worked for me.

Cheers

Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks to both of you for the advice, Barrie_G, I'm using 15lb main line. Drew, I take it that the brake blocks are the tiny litle things in the pack with the oil. Would you belive there is no mension of inserting them in the instructions (or not that I read) and the bloke in the shop didn.t mention them. I will have my reel to bits tonight and see 'what's what.
 

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If you're using 15 pound line which will have a diameter of around .30mm this will be a little light for a beginner, try loading the reel with 18 pound or with something with a diameter of around .40mm as this will lower the level of the line on the spool faster and reduce the chances of a birds nest.
 

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I'm no distance merchant but the reel is great so persevere!

The 'blocks' simply slide onto two spikes which are at right angles to the main shaft and are to be found on the handle side once you've undone the 3 knurled screw/bolts. Carefully pull off the handle and casing to reveal the shaft and spikes. Keep the blocks and everything oil free (it's the bearings at either end which can do with a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of oil! The blocks should slide easily. When you are casting and the shaft spins the little blocks are thrown out towards the edge of the casing and act as a brake. They really work, but it takes a great deal of belief when you consider how small they are. As the weight flies away the shaft accelerates and line is pulled off the reel. However the weight of the line and air resistance tends to slow it through the air. Unfortueately the shaft has no such inhibitions and is running between two pretty good bearings so it does not slow half as much! It begins to catch up with the line so to speak and throws coils of line in a loose bunch around the spool until ... well you like most of us know what it looks like then when it comes to a sickening stop!

My advice to you is to use your thumb! At least to begin with slow down the spool gently with it so that it never spins VERY fast. After a relatively short time, particularly if you've set up the side-to-side movement as described by the others, you will be amazed how smooth the casting gets. Let the rod do the work and don't aim for distance! If you've got some old line go down to a field/open space and practice with just 3oz on the end. You'll get more casts that way and concentrate on smoooothness rather than distance. Casting on land can damage your line which is why i've suggested using older stuff. Make sure however that you've got no spectators within striking distance, no point worrying the insurance people! Actually its worse when you get a snap off on the shoreas, in my experience atleast, it always happens when you've put on the best bits of bait you've got!

Now here's a tip which many will argue against! (ultimately even me!!!) IF trouble free casting still won't come then slow down the spool using the end caps. You shouldn't use them for this as they are designed to simply contain the bearings and move them over the ends of the shaft. However I know lots of anglers who have always used this method of slowing down an errant spool. Use the method to give yourself confidence!

The fun in using the ABU is the way it is so dependable and sewing-machine-like! I've got 6500 in my hand as I write (typing with one finger!) and I bought it in 1976 (it says on the underside of the bit that fits onto the rod) It's been great and has just come back from ABU after an overhaul, it's first! I've also bought the Elite with the magnetic brake setup but I swear the old one feels more 'one-piece'. It has level wind and will never cast as far as the new one (and it doesn't) but for virtually all my fishing from 60yds in, given my pathetic style/technique, it's done what I want. Keep trying and I bet in a couple of weeks you'll easily be outcasting me, if that's what you want. Otherwise you'll be the one with the constant smile on your face marvelling in how great it feels/sounds when that line and reel sings out!
 

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Hy Tyn,

Back again.

Another thing that I forgot to mention.

You can slow the spool down by cleaning the bearings with lighter fuel, drying them out and oiling them with thick motor oil. This in no way harms the bearings in any way, just slows them down. I wouldn't use the two knurled knobs on each end for this, it's not what they are intended for.

If you have a problem removing the bearings, PM me with a phone number and I will get back to you. However I am leaving for Wales on Thursday for a holiday so you will have to do it before then.

After replacing the end plate, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE THREE KNURLED SCREWS holding it in place, these should be hand tight and then a little nip with a screwdriver, no more.

Last and by no means least, if you are having a problem with the knot joining the shockleader to your main line, try using a tapered shockleader, they are expensive but will help you to get started.

If you purchase a reel of Greased Weasel shockleader there is a way of reducing the diameter of the knot. I have used it for years when uptiding and on the beach with no unforseen consequences, but I am sure that someone will shoot me down in flames, however here goes. Take a lighter and burn the end of the Greased Weasel until you have a little mushroom, then tie a Double Grinner knot with your mainline onto the Greased Weasel. Dab a spot of super glue onto the knot and this will last a lifetime, or at least until you decide to replace either your mainline or shockleader.

What ever you do don't give up, you will master it in the end.

Cheers

Drew
 

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Drew what a great tip will try that next time out I have just switched to a multi and found that I had a lot less probs by using a shorter rod until I got used to it I can now cast at least 20 yards without any birdsnests at all. Seriously it did help
 

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If possible,get your hands on a copy of Dave Dowcra`s casting video......he shows exactly how to maintain 6500 type reels(takes 2 mins..no need to keep taking the bearings out and flushing with lighter fluid),how to balance/load the line on...and once you`ve got the hang of it,he shows you how to cast ;)
I`ve seen vids and read countless articles on reel usage/casting,but i`ve never seen anyone who comes close to Mr Dowcra when it comes to plain speaking,and easy to follow tips.
 

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Hi Yozzer,

He is a professional with all the money he needs to make a video. We are just normal people passing on information that we have stored over the years in our little brains.

Nobody has said to strip their reel down every time it is used and to clean the bearings, what was said, if you read the post, was a method on how to slow the spool down for someone that was learning how to use a multiplier.

Cheers

Drew
 

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Yo Drew,
I understand what you mean,and i was`nt implying that the reel be stripped after every trip,but on a lot of forums you get the same script about "flushing with lighter fluid",and taking this that and the other apart to clean......there`s no need to do it
 

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IF IT AINT BROKE DONT FIX IT! GET YOUR FIXED SPOOL BACK ON!!
try braid on a shimano biomaster.

( ok im expecting the flak from the multiplier men any second , take cover!)
 

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Hi Yozzer,

How about telling us how to maintain a reel in two minutes, I am most interested.

Cheers

Drew
 

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How come this one type of reel versus another type of reel has crept in?

There is not a right way to fish/cast, just one that works for you/him! However there are lots and lots of wrong ways to do it? This thread started as a an advice forum for someone who had already taken the plunge/spent the money!

So ... it's nice to try and master a different tool (as the actress etc. etc.) If it's just casting out and hauling in then those with fixed spools can already do it without having to think much about the reel. Using a multi. adds another dimension. It may well be that using one is aping the tournament casters but then we all like to be able to chuck it out far so to speak.

For me its about adding more to my skills and not being satisfied with what I did last time. So i'm continuosly adding to my brain's database through reading things (mostly here!!) then going and trying it (if it's affordable!) then coming back and reading/asking some more! So .. what I knew this time last year has changed and so I see more in any circumstance ... PFS!

Thanks for the tips on 'tuning' and cleaning, keep your tool clean is very good advice, though i'd consider that handling it too much could cause problems later!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After all the advice and debate over the pros and cons, it's the weekend and so I get a chance to try again with the multi.

It turned out that my wife's boss knows a bit about multi's and has set it up for me. He said I certainly had it far too tight, even to the extent that I had slightly dented one of the shims, although not to the extent that would cause any future problems. Also, with all the birds nests, the line level was tool low. The brake blocks were already in place though and not contaminated (the ones in the pack with the oil are spares). I have also upped the line to 18lb to slow things down a bit and attached a tapered shock leader to prevent line guide snags. Thanks swelleyman for your philosophical approach to the debate - as you say, it is partly about learning a new skill with a more 'involving' bit of kit.

I may try my lighter rod with 2oz at first rather than my 4-10oz beach caster with 3-4oz of lead. Watch this space!
 

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Glad to hear that you haven't given up with the multi, in my opinion it really is worth preservering with and I'm sure you'll work it out in the end.
 

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Keep Trying It Will Work Just Follow The Advice On Reel Tuning If Not Sure Look On Veals Website Neil Makellow's Article Or His Own Website.

From Personal Experience I Can Strip Down My Reels, Abu6500c3ct Elite And Slosh 20 Clean Re-lube Re-assemble. Get On The Beach Cast Away No Problem Just Follow Neils Advice. Not Sure Just Pm. :) :) :)
 
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