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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
had my first casting lesson yesterday - and all the posts about the massive difference a few minutes with an instructor can make are spot on!

thinking back tho, its raises an issue for me - - for this i'll use my own convention to help visualise - i hope it works for others to understand me (it all refers to OTG)

  • assume a "foot clock" with feet in the centre and 12 pointing at target
  • and a "tip clock" with the rod tip in the centre and 12 oclock pointing at target

(please don't repeat old discussions on the merits of different clock and degree conventions its not the purpose of this thread - thanks)


please advise:- from what i understand - for novices, most websites and training CDs propose a set up with the rod tip at around 7 on the "foot clock", and the sinker at around 11 on the "tip clock" - what would the theoretical difference be in:

  • gradually moving the sinker to around 8 or 9 o'clock on the tip clock? -
  • gradually moving the tip towards the 9 o'clock on the foot clock?
  • and is there any convention about how these 2 relate to each other when you adjust one (ie if you move tip later on the foot clock do you have to compensate with line angle?)

should have asked yesterday but there was limited time and it didn't occcur to me
i will try it myself - but understanding the theory would help

thanks in advance:g:

Al
 

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Try with the rod at 7oclock (your system), and the lead at 4.30 relative to the tip of the rod. Use a drop to the lead of half the length of the rod to start, and use HALF the power you think you are going to need. Always look up when casting, not at the horizon, and the lead will go high, as it should. After half a dozen casts, you should start to be able to judge the relative stiiffness of your rod. If the rod feels "soft" to you, shortening the drop will make the rod feel stiffer, if the rod feels very stiff, lengthening the drop will make the rod feel softer. You can move the rod further round your clock, but be wary of letting the lead move too far out, as you would be starting to use centrifugal force, and not compressing the rod . This is a cause of crackoffs, and can be dangerous if there are others standing nearby.
The answer of course it take it easy and let muscle memory and subconscious learning take place before trying to break any records.

philtherod
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Phil for the advice

not too sure about the 4:30 bit (all rest is clear)

attached (hopefully) is a drawing showing what i think you mean - but won't this cause slack when you rotate towards the sinker?

cheers

Al
 

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you were doing ok saturday
if you want to move round the clock more use body rotataion and keep looking up
you will find what you are happy with
as in how much body you can use but dont over reach yourself.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
you were doing ok saturday
if you want to move round the clock more use body rotataion and keep looking up
you will find what you are happy with
as in how much body you can use but dont over reach yourself.
Dave
really good advice (as usual) - will continue with what i learnt from you yesterday
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
did some diggin on the web and i now think i have enough to keep in mind when i practice what i have been taught - thanks anyway

rod position - basically as you wind the rod back - (gradually step by step) - you increase the time available to load the rod (and the loading developed) and thus if you can still keep the push-pull finish sweet and make use of extra stored energy it should help.

line position - it seems the more accute the line angle (ie in clock terms the later the time) the greater the inertia of the sinker and the greater the load. BUT - the inertia can get too great and result in snapped line or rod when you are winding the rod back at the same time
so my approach will be to ease the angle of the line as i wind the rod angle back (see attached)

i think this may be approaching a south african cast?

amazin what you can find if you dig hard enough

cheers
 

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