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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I asked a similar question in the Casting forum but it hasn't had much traction #24

I will start out by saying I am a novice lure angler, with a flyfishing background (and trained as a Federation of FlyFishers casting instructor, although I have let my certification lapse)

For the past couple of weeks, and based on very little, I wasn't happy with the line lay on my reel. I have observed that on those few occasions where I have had to pull for a break, with the exception of once when the lure clip opened, the rest of my breaks have been in the braid. Obviously I have no idea how much braid I have lost, but I have presumed that the braid may have been weakened.

I haven't been suffering wind/casting knots. I have learned to close the bail arm manually, and to give the line a quick tug before starting the retrieve

After each fishing session I have washed the reel (as per manufacturer's guidance); washed the rod, including cleaning the rings using a pipe cleaner on the small rings 馃

Andy (Led) has very kindly sent me a 18g and a 7.5g casting plug. The other afternoon I went out on a cricket field, cast as far as I could, walked to straighten the line and walk my plus another 30 metres. I reeled in under as constant a tension as I could manage passing the line through through my fingers. I did this a few times. Now I am happier with the line lay

Q1 please: do you do any maintenance with braid?

Q2: any top tips how to reverse the braid on the reel to have a fresh start?

Because I have lost some braid, before I reverse the braid, I will add some backing to fill out the spool a little bit. I have read to use cheap monofilament of roughly the same diameter as my braid, and to knot it with a 2 turn Uni knot pulled really tight. I can do that

If you got this far, thank you for reading :)

Andrew
 

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Hi there i鈥檓 sure the guys here will hopefully sort your problem out
Firstly i would ask the age of your Braid as it does deteriorate more than what mono would.

Check your Rod Rings carefully make sure there is no chips or cracks. also check your bail arm, is the bearing running free ?
is there a possibility the line could be getting caught between it ?

As for transferring the line i just use a second reel
( same size ) use some mono as backing and transfer it that way
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you @mikeyfelley

Everything is new this year: rod, reel, braid, lures all bought in the past three months

Regarding transferring the line, have you got a step by step? I do have another fixed spool reel, but it isn't the same make or size, although the capacity is roughly the same

I thought I could add backing to the current business end of the braid to bring the spool up to full, before I try to reverse it, but there's the puzzle
 

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Thank you @mikeyfelley

Everything is new this year: rod, reel, braid, lures all bought in the past three months

Regarding transferring the line, have you got a step by step? I do have another fixed spool reel, but it isn't the same make or size, although the capacity is roughly the same

I thought I could add backing to the current business end of the braid to bring the spool up to full, before I try to reverse it, but there's the puzzle
sorry mate iv got OCD and have two of everything lol
so i basically do another spool.
Normally i would have two different diameters with me at the time depending what i鈥檓 fishing for.
some people out there reels in some water in a bucket to keep the tension
iv never done this or felt the need
 

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Thank you @mikeyfelley

Everything is new this year: rod, reel, braid, lures all bought in the past three months

Regarding transferring the line, have you got a step by step? I do have another fixed spool reel, but it isn't the same make or size, although the capacity is roughly the same

I thought I could add backing to the current business end of the braid to bring the spool up to full, before I try to reverse it, but there's the puzzle
Reminds me of the fox, chicken and grain puzzle Andrew!

I have just done something not too dissimilar, including tying the mono backing on as you described, to the correct depth on my existing lure spool, on top of the braid. That way, when I cut the mono, I had exactly the correct amount to go with the braid as backing. I did it in a slightly different order though, as my braid was taken off a bulk spool.

The trick for me was going outside and using a fixed post and a steel rod at either end of my garden - about 30m apart and I laid out 150m of braid between the two points i.e. 5 lengths.

I then spooled on the correct length of mono, having first taken it off my lure reel, using a second spare reel until I had the braid length prepared. I did this mono spooling using the two reels attached on the butt ends of two rods. One had the spare spool with just a little tension and was propped against a wall, so the mono fed off cleanly. The other rod I held, with the line passing through a rag which I used to maintain tension as I wound it on. Finally, having done the mono, I went outside, tied one end of the braid onto the mono and continued to wind the braid on under tension as I walked up and down the garden.

I guess something like this might work for you if you can find some space with posts or trees that you can park the braid on? Just make sure you remember which end is which, so you do actually reverse it. Also a good opportunity to inpsect the the 'old' working end of the braid for any damage. Hope that makes sense or you get a better suggestion.
Richard
 

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I can 100% guarantee you that a poor line lay on your reel isnt the issue, especially considering you said you dont suffer from windknots. What BS is your braid and what BS is your leader? Can you estimate where the break is, is it at the knot or halfway up the braid mainline? Have you checked the spool lip for slight damage? What braid are you using? some are crap!

You use a 2 turn uni knot, Is that your leader knot too? If it is then no wonder, 4 turns on mono leader and 7 on the braid mainline for line to line knot, if tying to a swivel then use a 7 turn uni knot but pass the line twice through the eye before tying the uni.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
@NIrishDane thank you for your response

braid: Asso PE 8x lure braid 21.1lb/9.6kg 0.14mm
leader: Sakuma fluorocarbon 25lb/11.34kg 0.44mm
lure clip: Breakaway Mini Link 25lb test

The leader material is something I happened to have, rather than something bought specifically for my recent Bass lure fishing. Everything else I have has been bought within the past three months

I don鈥檛 think breaks have been at the braid/leader knot; a ragged end of braid is what I am familiar with seeing (breaks aren鈥檛 happening frequently, but when I do have to pull for a break 鈥)

A local I have fished with suspects the ragged end of braid has been trapped by Mussels on the estuary bed closing if the braid passes across them. That鈥檚 how he explains his own losses. Most of my fishing has been around the Menai Straits which is similar to one very big estuary

Braid to leader knot is GT Knot with between 6 and 9 turns of braid mainline depending on my mood that day. I have tried the FG knot but the simpler to tie GT seems more than adequate
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You use a 2 turn uni knot, Is that your leader knot too? If it is then no wonder
I have't attached the backing yet. I got the method which I was proposing to do from this (edited) post #6 by @Nick Phillips

When you invest in a top line braid you need to make sure you are putting it on the correct reel and also putting it on the correct way so that you can use it without problems.

These are just my opinions but have been well practised.

Start off by getting yourself some decent backing like Daiwa Sensor that you can get Very cheap and get it on jumbo spools and around 6lbs breaking strain so there is not a massive ammount of difference between the backing and the braid diameters.

Put the mono on nice and tight and I find the best way is to employ the help of someone else to hold the jumbo spool on a pencil and gently apply pressure to the spool to give you decent tension so that the backing spools as well as the reel will produce hard and flat as you wind the reel handle with the reel on the rod handle etc.

Then by using a 2 turn uni/uni knot that will produce a tiny knot use your nail to bury the knot as best you can into the backing and wind a few turns by hand with good tension to make sure it's all seated down properly so the braid will spool perfectly over the top.

Then with someone holding the braid spool and applying tension wind the braid on under good tension nice and slow up to the level which should be about 2-3mm under filled. (on a shimano up to the level where the spool lip angle starts).

The braid should be on hard tight and spooled flat.
 

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Spooling is trial and error for your given reel and line (and to some extent rod/guide) set up. Obviously much easier with several spools for each reel. I'm not familiar with the braid your using but can recommend Daiwa 8x JBraid in 28lb for general boat and shore fishing from my own experience. I buy the depth counter multi coloured line as that makes spooling up even easier.
Try a small power swivel tied to your braid with a doubled 7 turn uni knot covered with a knot protector and a 25lb amnesia or even a 30lb wire leader if it's cut offs your suffering. Are you using FC and a pr/fc knot ? Mussels are harsh on any line and you might need all the abrasion resistance you can buy? We fish along/over estuary training walls that are covered in the creatures. Wire has definitely helped
 

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@NIrishDane thank you for your response

braid: Asso PE 8x lure braid 21.1lb/9.6kg 0.14mm
leader: Sakuma fluorocarbon 25lb/11.34kg 0.44mm
lure clip: Breakaway Mini Link 25lb test

The leader material is something I happened to have, rather than something bought specifically for my recent Bass lure fishing. Everything else I have has been bought within the past three months

I don鈥檛 think breaks have been at the braid/leader knot; a ragged end of braid is what I am familiar with seeing (breaks aren鈥檛 happening frequently, but when I do have to pull for a break 鈥)

A local I have fished with suspects the ragged end of braid has been trapped by Mussels on the estuary bed closing if the braid passes across them. That鈥檚 how he explains his own losses. Most of my fishing has been around the Menai Straits which is similar to one very big estuary

Braid to leader knot is GT Knot with between 6 and 9 turns of braid mainline depending on my mood that day. I have tried the FG knot but the simpler to tie GT seems more than adequate
The stuff you are using is good, i reckon that local could be right, mussels and braid do not mix! Perhaps try a very long FC or mono leader (10ft+) if you arent already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The stuff you are using is good, i reckon that local could be right, mussels and braid do not mix! Perhaps try a very long FC or mono leader (10ft+) if you arent already.
Good plan @NIrishDane
To date I have always cast with my braid to leader knot outside the rod (tip ring); perhaps I need to get over myself ;)

Any tips about how to reverse the braid? Without access to @Jacksdad 's field, I think two identical fixed spool reels and three spools are needed ... and I don't have two identical reels.

Thank you
 

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Good plan @NIrishDane
To date I have always cast with my braid to leader knot outside the rod (tip ring); perhaps I need to get over myself ;)

Any tips about how to reverse the braid? Without access to @Jacksdad 's field, I think two identical fixed spool reels and three spools are needed ... and I don't have two identical reels.

Thank you
You could do what I did recently, with one reel, but you have to have a matching spare spool. Check your Braid is OK & not showing signs of any damage on the existing spool, tie your backing to it and fill the spool to your requirements.
Take the spool off the reel, and using a fine woodscrew and a spring, fix it to a scrap bit of 4x2 timber or similar. Put the spring under the spool to stop it contacting the wood, and the screw down through the top. You may find it helpful to temporarily remove the Drag washers, and only tighten the screw enough to put a little tension on - don't screw it down tight to the wood. And don't risk screwing it to something like the Coffee Table - SWMBO will not be amused! Then you can wind the backing & Braid onto your second spool, with the reel on the Butt section of a rod.

I've got one of these, so used the spring(s) from that.

White Guitar accessory String instrument accessory Line Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@Trampster1922 Ingenioius!

Thank you. That line winder looks a useful piece of kit; does it have a brand name please?

Whilst I don't have a spare spool for the Okuma Helios HSX-30, I do have a poor old Shimano reel with two spools (which now sounds quite poorly after I dropped it into the sea)

PS the coffee table is safe; we don't have one :)
 

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@Trampster1922 Ingenioius!

Thank you. That line winder looks a useful piece of kit; does it have a brand name please?

Whilst I don't have a spare spool for the Okuma Helios HSX-30, I do have a poor old Shimano reel with two spools (which now sounds quite poorly after I dropped it into the sea)

PS the coffee table is safe; we don't have one :)
I can't remember where I got it now, had it quite a few years, but it probably came from eBay or Amazon. The suction clamp isn't great - I usually clamp it to a flat surface with a carpentry or similar clamp.
Here's a current eBay link for you. Only 拢6.29 or cheaper if you buy more than one! If you prefer to use Amazon, put in a search for fishing line spooler.

 

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Andrew
Any tips about how to reverse the braid?
I expect other people have explained this but you can easily reverse line on a reel without needing extra reels.
You will need an electric drill, two old empty line spools and a nut and bolt that will fit the line spools.
You mount an empty line spool on the bolt and do the nut up tight, put the end of the bolt in the drill chuck and tighten it. You can now remove the line from the reel using the drill.
Now remove the full spool from the drill and mount it on a pencil or the like. Repeat the process using the empty spool on the drill to remove the line from the full spool. Mount the full spool on a pencil or the like and then wind the line back on the reel.
Takes 10 minutes maximum including the knots!

Tim
 
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