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My last post on here caused a bit of controversy so lets try again..... I have finally got around to making some homemade lead heads for split belly shads using a 2-part high temperature resistant RTV silicon mould.

The design is based on a popular lure but i have used what i would consider an improved hook clip. I wanted to use a different hook clip (Mustad Fastach) after losing several fish last year on the original lure due to the hook coming free from the head. I'm pretty pleased with the results and the fish seem to like them too. I'm sure that many on here will be familiar with making lead/lure moulds from RTV silicon but i have put together a blog post outlining the method i used to make homemade lead heads for anyone who may be interested in making their own :). Hopefully it is of help to some. See the link below:

Making Soft Plastic Lures: Part 2 - Homemade Lead Heads

Here are a few photos but there are plenty more on the link.....







 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not trying to put them down but it's far easier to get the moulds, wire inserts and even the soft plastics all from the same place http://www.do-itmolds.com

JonD

Fair point, but i am yet to find a Do-It mould, or other aluminium mould that produces a jig head similar to that used on FMs, Artic Eels, etc. So using a silicon mould seems to the easiest and cheapest way to replicate the shape to produce a mould. I would get an custom aluminium mould cut but they are very pricey. At least with silicon you can create custom clay designs at home and produce moulds from that. Thats where the fun really starts :)
 

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Fair point, but i am yet to find a Do-It mould, or other aluminium mould that produces a jig head similar to that used on FMs, Artic Eels, etc. So using a silicon mould seems to the easiest and cheapest way to replicate the shape to produce a mould. I would get an custom aluminium mould cut but they are very pricey. At least with silicon you can create custom clay designs at home and produce moulds from that. Thats where the fun really starts :)
IMG_20171105_140956165.jpg


Made a Ali mould, started on another one trying to get a bit clearer and a loop for the hook
 

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I've read a lot about people trying to make moulds on this site. This has always worked perfect for me. For example: If I'm copying a jig hd, use car body filler and make 1/2 the mould by pressing the jig hd into the filler 1/2 way. Wait for the filler to harden. Put a sml smear of vaseline on the filler/jig hd. Cover in more filler & wait for it to harden. Split the filler mould, clean it up and drill a sprue. Take it to your local aluminum sand cast foundry & have it cast from ally!!! Each mould cost me £10. Clean it up & away you go!!!!!
 

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My last post on here caused a bit of controversy so lets try again..... I have finally got around to making some homemade lead heads for split belly shads using a 2-part high temperature resistant RTV silicon mould.

The design is based on a popular lure but i have used what i would consider an improved hook clip. I wanted to use a different hook clip (Mustad Fastach) after losing several fish last year on the original lure due to the hook coming free from the head. I'm pretty pleased with the results and the fish seem to like them too. I'm sure that many on here will be familiar with making lead/lure moulds from RTV silicon but i have put together a blog post outlining the method i used to make homemade lead heads for anyone who may be interested in making their own :). Hopefully it is of help to some. See the link below:

Making Soft Plastic Lures: Part 2 - Homemade Lead Heads

Here are a few photos but there are plenty more on the link.....







Very good
 

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Further to my last post; I know this is not a jig head but the principle is the same. This is how I make my moulds: firstly make a plug. For this 8oz lead mould I cut a wooden handle in half & stuck it too a piece of yellow perspex. (If you have a jig you wish to copy cut that in half!) Its important that each half is stuck in exactly the same position.

View attachment 1051702 next make a sprue (mine was part of an old blue spinning top cut in half) again stick it to the perspex. Next make a surround to form a box, slightly tapered. Use the surround on each half of the plugs & fill it up with body filler. Apply some oil/ vaseline to the plug first. Once set remove the box and gently remove the plug. Repeat so you have a mould out of body filler as shown on left in photo. I would not recommend pouring molten lead into polyester moulds so I then have these sand cast out of aluminum for £10
Once cleaned up they look like this
20180127_185406_001.jpg
the locating pins I add afterwards. Clamp the mould together & Mark each side across the joint with a fine marker. Fill with lead. If the 2 halves do not line up just move slightly using the lines as a guide. Fill again to check each side is aligned, marking the mould in that position. Once you have the mould marked in the correct position drill a 5mm hole thro one half into the other but not right thro, in the 2 pos you want the locating pins. Tap a M6 thread in the side drilled right through. Drill out the other side to 6mm. I had some Ally bolts I then screwed into one side & cut off to act as locating dowels. Job done! For the wire I just clamped the 2 halves together in a vice with the wire in place to create the necessary holes. I have made numerous moulds like this Inc jig moulds.
Initially I worked out the volume using the density of lead but the first moulds kept coming up shy of required weight due to shrinkage of the ally when cooling.
 

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