[Rob]

Question to the guys that actually own one. How long do your batteries last? I get 4 trips out of mine if I'm lucky, but I thought they were supposed to last about 150 hours, I don't even get a third of that!

Do you get 150 hours out of yours? Or more? Or less!

 

[EoinMag]

I have mark III's at the moment but they're the same thing. One of the batteries gave out on me last week after about 30 hours of usage, i.e. two all-nighters.
The others are still going strong, I lost the older ones until I realised the open end of the rail had to face me and not the other way, they were pinging out to sea.

 

[millser]

I dont get 150 hrs out of mine but I buy my tip light batteries in bulk which works out at about 28p for two and I always keep spares in a ziploc bag in my tackle box. They do seem to last longer in the summer whether its because the nights are shorter or its a bit warmer im not sure. What I have found though is if they seem to be running out at the end of a trip they do seem brighter when you use them the next time for some reason.

 

[Ajohn]

I used the mark 1 versions of these and still have them. I don't change the batts very often but doubt if any make will really last 150hrs. I would have thought something like 40hrs but haven't really counted.
You can get better life out of them by just changing one battery and when it goes again changing the other. I always have spares.
It's always worth shaking them about a bit to make sure that they haven't gone out due to a contact problem. The best cure for that is to take the batteries out and with a pair of fine nosed pliers or tweezers lift the lead at the bottom very very slightly. The lead up the side can also be a problem. The lights are turned on by allowing that to contact the side of the top battery - it mustn't touch the bottom one. This needs a very slight kink in the end.
I haven't bought any mark 4's as they are way overpriced. There are some round ended ones available that are much cheaper. They appeared on ebay once at 1 euro each but complaints from some one or the other put the price up rather a lot. This type also suffers from the same problem. The eddystone one's stand off the rod far more than they need to and are also extremely overpriced.
I have known people muck about with them so that they only come on when the cap is pressed in. I prefer the mods I've outlined. I use a new one till it has problems and then carefully adjust it. Casting causes the problem. The increased G force on the batteries bends the bottom contact.
They always did use LEDs with gold plated leads which helps with inevitable corrosion that can't even be seen. A slight scrape with a knife will cure that.

If I rated them I would say usefulness 10/10, design 0/10. I like them because there is no need to stare at the rod all night. Movement can be seen easily anywhere in the field of vision.

John

 

[Captain Blank]

This is going to make me sound quite sad but i tested the MarkIV tiplights and the green ones will last longer thsn the red and blue ones as the LED uses less power. Never got anything like 150h out of them though but i guess that is the maximum possible but is unlikely to ever really happen. Also night be worth removing the batteries after a trip as they get damp and short out which will reduce lifespan.

The Captain

 

[Rob]

I have the green ones! And I remove the batteries after each session, as I did think I might have left it switched on, but the last set off batteries lasted for 1 all nighter (8 hours), and 3 night sessions (5 hours each approx).

Funny as well that it was working perfectly well when I packed up but wouldn't work when I got home. :g: Maybe you get 150 hours if you leave it switched on?

 

[Ajohn]

It might be the batteries you are using. Lately I've using the £1 shop variety that come on cards with several types all bought in west wales. They aren't as good as the ones that deaf aid battery suppliers sell. I just keep 6 lights in my tackle box and just turn them off. I get a lot more hours than that. Main problem is the contact issue I mentioned above. Shake them about to check for that.
Mine are red - those are very early mk1's and blue rounded ended ones. The blues are brighter. Can't say as I have noticed any difference on battery life but the old red ones may last a bit longer.
Only changing one battery will help as that will limit the current through the led.

John

 

[David Gould]

When you have decided to change the batteries on the tip light.

Remove the dead batteries and wash the internal bit and cap out in warn soapy water , then rinse it several times in warm clean water,. Bung it and the cap in a warm dry place for a couple of days and then replace the batteries .... Before you put the cap on coat the rim of the cap where it fits into the body with some water resistant cream /gel.

I say this because I discovered my tip light cells were not running very long and found that ( using my digital AVO ) there was enough damp salt moisture inside the case to conduct electricity and there for speeding the discharge of the batteries.

Like A. John I have several cards of the pound card type batteries .... one set has lasted over 7 days ( I left the tip light on the rod inside the rod bag.)

 

[sandpiper]

In general - there are two 'grades' of cell - the ones 'reliable' jewelers sell for watches will last the longest, and cost the most. The others don't last long - so go for bulk = Pound shop, ebay, 20 pence each . . . . . at the most !

 

[Ajohn]

I've never ever washed any of mine David. The mk1 ones must be at least 15 years old and I've scraped the contacts with a blunt butter knife twice. They spent about 5 years unfished and never turned on before the 1st scrape and contact reset.

I would be inclined to try a blast of electronic contact cleaner before I would use water on them. Water contains all sorts of things that will be left on after they have dried. That will lead to problems in damp conditions.

John

 

[monktonlad]

I have the mk4 tip lights (2 red and 1 green) and I have found the green one stays brighter longer than the red ones.

I have also found that if you remove the batteries when you get home after your trip and just wipe the batteries with a tissue and store them out of the light, they last a lot longer.

The batteries that we buy come from ebay on a card of 10 for a little over a quid, but they last for around 80 hours.

I also clean the contacts before refitting the batteries.


Malcolm.

 

[Ajohn]

Sounds like the £ shop / market ones are better value. They have 30 odd batteries 12 of which are the right size.

John

 

[u0347108]

Are these the Delta tip lights? I've had these for a year or so with no problems so far.

 

[Fishery Pokery]

Hi guys,
Do you all whip the light bracket to your rod tip? I have been told this causes a flat spot in the rods action (tiny I know) that can cause the tip to snap. I tape my brackets on with insulation tape.
Also do you remove the light every time you cast or is it possible to cast with it still attached? I always start removing them but then get lazy or rush and leave it, and I often lose them like a shooting star out to sea. Is there a special method of keeping them attached, or is ita case of removing them every cast? :g:

 

[Bass-ic Instinct]

Its always best to remove them although i know it can be a hastle. I just tape mine on with electrical tape so i can switch them between rods. I have never had the tape cause one to come off, but have lost them off before just to coming loose and once to it catching on the shockleader.

 

[Bass-ic Instinct]

At venues where it is a lot darker at night and a less brighter light can be seen easily i often prefer to use isotope night lights. they are more gentle on the eye and supposedly last for 15 years. I have had one on my rod for about 3 years, the only downside is that i think they could be broken quite easily and that they are not the brightest on venues where there is a lot of background light pollution such as near houses.

 

[EoinMag]

Hi guys,
Do you all whip the light bracket to your rod tip? I have been told this causes a flat spot in the rods action (tiny I know) that can cause the tip to snap. I tape my brackets on with insulation tape.
Also do you remove the light every time you cast or is it possible to cast with it still attached? I always start removing them but then get lazy or rush and leave it, and I often lose them like a shooting star out to sea. Is there a special method of keeping them attached, or is ita case of removing them every cast? :g:

Your light bracket is backwards if the lights are pinging out to sea.
This was happening to me too until the guy in the shop told me, I leave my lights on and it makes no difference, I also have the brackets whipped on.
All that said I used the lidl chemical tip lights taped on the last few trips.

 

[Fishery Pokery]

Your light bracket is backwards if the lights are pinging out to sea.
This was happening to me too until the guy in the shop told me, I leave my lights on and it makes no difference, I also have the brackets whipped on.
All that said I used the lidl chemical tip lights taped on the last few trips.

I just read that and thought Im not that daft to put the baracket on backwards. Ive just had a quick check, and sure enough, the brackets on the wrong way round!
Also do you guys face the light to the sky? This is the way I always see it in pictures, but I put mine on the other way so they light up the blank. Is there a reason for light direction, does it make the line less likely to catch it?

 

[Bass-ic Instinct]

No wonder it flew off into the sea! i generally point the light with the bright end facing to the sea.

 

[Ajohn]

The 1st thing I do with a new rod is whip on a tip light holder. The important thing is to whip them on some way back from the tip ring so that the line clears the tip light when casting with a multiplier rings up. It can catch as the rod is moved into position. Something about the length of the holder is about right maybe a bit less. Try it at home with tape 1st. Don't be tempted to put central to the last 2 rings unless these are unusually close together.
I whip them on with cotton and finish with clear "as hard as nails" nail varnish. It's best to put a dab of it on under the holder and whippings 1st on one end especially if one end of the holder is to be whipped to the socket of the tip ring. Mistakes can be easily fixed by cutting the bindings where they go over the holder and cleaning up with nail varnish remover.
I can't see as the action of the rod will be altered in any way that matters. The part the holder is on will be straight with any significant loading. That's why rods don't break at the entry to the tip ring socket.
I fit them when I start fishing and usually but not always remove them when I've finished.

John