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Hi lads, today I went about servicing my 4 stroke yamaha outboard, I started with the gear oil, I noticed the oil draining to be milky grey colour! Any of you lads experience something similar? Cheers
 

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Hi lads, today I went about servicing my 4 stroke yamaha outboard, I started with the gear oil, I noticed the oil draining to be milky grey colour! Any of you lads experience something similar? Cheers
Thats indicative of water in the oil and youd need to find out why.
Might be a new seal or seals are needed and normally this is due to fishing line wrapping round the prop which can go surprisingly far into the prop shaft seal and beyond.
It could also be bad drain/filler plug seals, and or vertical shaft seals. But most of the time its the prop shaft seal and fishing line.
Gives you a chance to drop the unit.and replace the impeller at the same time if you werent thinking of doing that.
 
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Hi lads, today I went about servicing my 4 stroke yamaha outboard, I started with the gear oil, I noticed the oil draining to be milky grey colour! Any of you lads experience something similar? Cheers
Put the oil into a glass jar and let it settle. You will see how much water separates it could just be a little bit of condensation. genuine outboard gear oil is made to allow a little water to mix and still work
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for replys lads, wasnt sure was it seal or condensation issue.. how dodgy would it be to fish away on her after replacing the unit with fresh oil, trying to organize main dealer with this covid is disaster!!
 

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Thanks for replys lads, wasnt sure was it seal or condensation issue.. how dodgy would it be to fish away on her after replacing the unit with fresh oil, trying to organize main dealer with this covid is disaster!!
It would get you fishing for a few sessions, but needs to be dealt with otherwise you will be in for a nasty shock and a big repair bill.
Even a car with a blown headgasket can be driven- the damage it does to the engine in the meantime is the problem.
Order the parts and wait it out. Changing seals is no massive undertaking and better than the alternative. You will need a puller for the prop and a seal pik ideally.

The water may be condensation, it may have literally only just happened, or it may have been there since the first use after it was last changed.
The real question is How much is a few trips worth to you?
Worst case scenario is you end up seizing the lower unit and having to replace the whole thing. Is that worth the few trips youd get in whilst waiting for the parts?
 

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check the quality of the o-rings on the drain plugs. They ain’t great on Yamaha’s and some dealers don’t replace old with new so you can get a big of water in there.

Best way is to pressure test the housing. That’ll let you know it’s the o-rings or cartridge seal. If it’s the seal it’s about 2 hours Labour for a main dealer to sort out on the bench
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It would get you fishing for a few sessions, but needs to be dealt with otherwise you will be in for a nasty shock and a big repair bill.
Even a car with a blown headgasket can be driven- the damage it does to the engine in the meantime is the problem.
Order the parts and wait it out. Changing seals is no massive undertaking and better than the alternative. You will need a puller for the prop and a seal pik ideally.

The water may be condensation, it may have literally only just happened, or it may have been there since the first use after it was last changed.
The real question is How much is a few trips worth to you?
Worst case scenario is you end up seizing the lower unit and having to replace the whole thing. Is that worth the few trips youd get in whilst waiting for the parts?
It would get you fishing for a few sessions, but needs to be dealt with otherwise you will be in for a nasty shock and a big repair bill.
Even a car with a blown headgasket can be driven- the damage it does to the engine in the meantime is the problem.
Order the parts and wait it out. Changing seals is no massive undertaking and better than the alternative. You will need a puller for the prop and a seal pik ideally.

The water may be condensation, it may have literally only just happened, or it may have been there since the first use after it was last changed.
The real question is How much is a few trips worth to you?
Worst case scenario is you end up seizing the lower unit and having to replace the whole thing. Is that worth the few trips youd get in whilst waiting for the parts?
Spot on pal, wont be taking the chance!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
check the quality of the o-rings on the drain plugs. They ain’t great on Yamaha’s and some dealers don’t replace old with new so you can get a big of water in there.

Best way is to pressure test the housing. That’ll let you know it’s the o-rings or cartridge seal. If it’s the seal it’s about 2 hours Labour for a main dealer to sort out on the bench
Il have look today just to see how there holding up. Thanks for that.
 

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Get/make an adaptor for your fill point that can be attached to a low pressure regulator. Pressurise the lower unit at around 4psi, then check over all the seal areas with soapy water. Any bubbles, seals need replacing. Most seals can be replaced by having a measure up and ordering from an industrial supplier at a fraction of the cost.
If they do blow, then check for grooves worn in the shafts where the seal lips go when replacing the seals
 

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Get/make an adaptor for your fill point that can be attached to a low pressure regulator. Pressurise the lower unit at around 4psi, then check over all the seal areas with soapy water. Any bubbles, seals need replacing. Most seals can be replaced by having a measure up and ordering from an industrial supplier at a fraction of the cost.
If they do blow, then check for grooves worn in the shafts where the seal lips go when replacing the seals
Of cause you will need to vacuum test as well
 

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check the quality of the o-rings on the drain plugs. They ain’t great on Yamaha’s and some dealers don’t replace old with new so you can get a big of water in there.

Best way is to pressure test the housing. That’ll let you know it’s the o-rings or cartridge seal. If it’s the seal it’s about 2 hours Labour for a main dealer to sort out on the bench
I speak from experience on this having had the cartridge seal changed on one of my outboards. It’s easy to think it’ll be ok but you may get a Big Bang and snapped shaft 🤣
 

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Gearboxes are way to expensive to mess with, I wouldn't be using it until I was sure the problem had been found and fixed. Its not just the cost of repairs but where you could possibly be when it does fully break down.

Often the issue is from line getting around the prop and forcing the rear seal to allow water in.
 

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Looks like you need the gear box out the housing and a new seal fitted. Not really a DIY job as you need special tools to get the gear box out the casing.

Fo you have a yam dealer near you?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks like you need the gear box out the housing and a new seal fitted. Not really a DIY job as you need special tools to get the gear box out the casing.

Fo you have a yam dealer near you?
I was going to pop out the old seal carrier and replace it with new one and seals was hoping that would sort it?
 

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Most seals can be replaced by having a measure up and ordering from an industrial supplier at a fraction of the cost.
Only fit genuine Yamaha seals. Non genuine ones from industrial suppliers often do not have stainless steel garter springs and will last a matter of weeks before the spring disintegrates. Seen this many times from people thinking they know better and saving £10.
 
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