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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of fitting out a Colvic 21. the engine and sterndrive were taken off befor I got the boat. since then it has been a bit of a jigsaw puzzel putting it all together again.

When I refitted the sterndrive and then tried to marry up the engine it didn't fit as the engine was fouling the timber frame of the stern.A quick phone call to the persone who owned it some years ago reviled that there should be 2 flexible coupling between the sterndrive and the engine.

I only have one flexi coupling and to get a new one will cost about £350.00. a Mate of mine has a shortened propshaft at 14 inches long. now if i use that it will move the engine back into the boat by 10 inches.

If i move the engine back into the boat by 10 inches what/how will it effect things and is it a sensible idea.
 

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This might be a cheaper option:-


http://www.propshaft.co.uk

Get them to make it the length you need with the couplings you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Get them to make it the length you need with the couplings you need.
I don't think that the prop can be much shorter, by the time the sliding spline and the 2 universal joints are on the prop there's not much room left.

Have checked the bolt mounting on the u/j's, the flexible coupling and the engine output shaft and all match up as if made for each other.

The propshaft is off a landrover comp vehicle and is shortned and balanced.
 

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What is the engine you are fitting? Big differance in weight between a 2 pot 30hp
engine and a 2.2ltr 90hp marinised truck engine.
However my feeling is that it won't make much differance on your boat. The Colvic hull is a good weight carrier and with a normal prop/shaft drive the engine would be further forward than it is with a stern drive unit.

Afishionado
 

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It is better to have the weight towards the centre of the boat than right at the stern anyway, moving a stern-drive engine 10" forwards will probably make handling and sea-keeping better rather than worse. If you are worried about it you can always move other heavy items like water and fuel tanks, batteries etc about to compensate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What is the engine you are fitting? Big differance in weight between a 2 pot 30hp
engine and a 2.2ltr 90hp marinised truck engine.
However my feeling is that it won't make much differance on your boat. The Colvic hull is a good weight carrier and with a normal prop/shaft drive the engine would be further forward than it is with a stern drive unit.

Afishionado
It is the original engine that was in the boat 3 1/2 years ago. A B.M.C. (1.6 or 1.8 I can't remember off hand) loads of work has been done to it and it has had a bit of a run to check it sounds ok, No rattles or knocks.It's a bit smokey but untill it's had a load put on it i expect that.The nieghbours called the fire brigade out when it first started as they though theboat was on fire:oops:

It is better to have the weight towards the centre of the boat than right at the stern anyway, moving a stern-drive engine 10" forwards will probably make handling and sea-keeping better rather than worse. If you are worried about it you can always move other heavy items like water and fuel tanks, batteries etc about to compensate.
That makes perfect sence. All the tanks and everything has to be put in place so in effect i am starting from scratch.

Thanks guys:notworthy
 

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The bmc 1.5/1.6 was the ubiquitous Black Cab engine. They go on for ever. If it's smokey I believe that the usual course of action is to have the injectors serviced, as these are the usual cause of smokey running on a diesel.

Afishionado
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
worked all day on the engine and prop and its all done with a test run.

quite pleased with the end result but a problem croped up when testing it all. when the sterndrive was put into reverse, it would not engauge. A quick look found that the reverse pin had been covered in paint and was fouling. a quick scrape and all is fine:clap2:
 
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