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Hi there,
I was recently given a fladen vantage multiplier reel by a friend, trouble is every time i cast with it i keep getting birds nests. this has happened several times and it is getting quite frustrating. Can anyone give me some tips on howe to prevent this from happening. Any help would be appreciated
 

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It's the reel I'm afraid, the braking system is totally inadequate, and there is so much 'slop' in the gear train driving the levelwind that good line lay is impossible which makes nesting worse.

Sorry to say this but if it was a decent reel, your friend wouldn't have parted with it. It has some limited use, short range fishing in estuaries for example, but as an introduction to multipliers it will scare you off them for life.

For an easier intro to multipliers, get a good quality secondhand Abu, Daiwa, Penn, you will not look back, trust me! :)

Not what you wanted to hear, but I hope you find some useful info here. ;)
 

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I bought a second hand shakespeare multiplier once which was a bit worn in parts and had the same problem, I now use it for pier and some boat fishing as I don't need to cast out very far.
As Rob says you really need a quality reel for any distance casts.

Joe.
 

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ive just got a small multiplyer from masterline and ive used it for pike a few times the cluch is so good and ive landed double figure pike on it so it has plenty of winding power for what it is
 

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although it's not the best casting reel in the world you just need to slow it down.

i've never stripped one before but i pressume it should have brake blocks, make sure these are fitted. it should deffo have bearings in it, clean the oil out and put EP80/90 in and try that. it will run very slow but won't nest. as you get used to it and feel you need it a bit faster then clean the bearings and add thinner oil (thick engine oil). keep doing this til it's perfect for you.
 

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I agree with Big Guy Get some bigger brake blocks and slow it down. The best reel i have ever seen and used is the Abu 7ht, for me best reel in the world
 

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a "ABU 7HT"????????????????? no such animal mate
either its a abu summat or other OR its a DAIWA 7ht - which is one of the best reels around
Now come on kieth it is his favourite reel
 

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ok you want make the best of what you got ,

tighten up the end caps a bit
go into fgree spool and let a weight drop tighten up until it drops slowly
that should limmit nests and improve your confidence
 

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ok you want make the best of what you got ,

tighten up the end caps a bit
go into fgree spool and let a weight drop tighten up until it drops slowly
that should limmit nests and improve your confidence
good bit of advice that set reel up as lobbit says this should help no end cheers dai
 

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ok you want make the best of what you got ,

tighten up the end caps a bit
go into fgree spool and let a weight drop tighten up until it drops slowly
that should limmit nests and improve your confidence
would have to disagree mate. the end caps are there to adjust and centralise the free floating of the spool. it should just slightly move from side to side.

if they're too tight it will wreck the bearings. adjust the speed by brakes and oil thickness in the bearings.
 

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would have to disagree mate. the end caps are there to adjust and centralise the free floating of the spool. it should just slightly move from side to side.

if they're too tight it will wreck the bearings. adjust the speed by brakes and oil thickness in the bearings.
generaly i would agree with you but for someone starting out with a budget reel i think lobber's got it right the bearings should last long enough to get the feel of casting with a multi
as has been stated many times before a cheep multi can put you off them for life they realy are nothing like a abu penn or daiwa etc
i have even seen people casting with the ratchet engaged to help stop birdies the reel wont last long used like this but it all helps build confidence and the look of shock on there face when they try a well set up decent reel is one to remember for a long time only problem then is they want you to go and help them buy a decent reel!
 

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would have to disagree mate. the end caps are there to adjust and centralise the free floating of the spool. it should just slightly move from side to side.

if they're too tight it will wreck the bearings. adjust the speed by brakes and oil thickness in the bearings.
I made the mistake of buying a Fladen Vantage multiplier and the only way to slow it down is to do as Lobbit says, the brakes on these reels are so useless, they might as well not be there. There's only one end cap adjuster on them, by the way.
 

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would have to disagree mate. the end caps are there to adjust and centralise the free floating of the spool. it should just slightly move from side to side.

if they're too tight it will wreck the bearings. adjust the speed by brakes and oil thickness in the bearings.
Big guy and all you others,

It kind of depends which sort of reel and model of reel you have , some do indeed have a spindle nut pressure on a ball race to set end float of the spool and also as a way of slowing the reel .
Both my Shakespeare Powerplay and my Abu level wind c5000 ( some number like that ) and my first Mitchell multi I had back in 1970 stated in the information slip that came with the reel something like this...." put on a weight including the bait to the average weight that you will fish with wind up the load to the rod tip, then tighten up the spindle nut so that when in free spool mode a small shake of the rod will allow the weight to descend fairly freely ". Brake blocks are centrifugal in operation or use the viscosity of oil/grease to give a resistance / drag when the spool reaches a certain speed . If you change the size of your sinker or bait when out fishing ,
You may have to adjust your reel.Oil and grease will have some resistance drag holding back the spool speed as will the thickness of oils/grease used on the brake plate faces.

Cleanliness and maintenance of all sorts of reel is important as salt/water and grit ingress will affect your reel speeds

However my Penn 525's and 535's would be ruined by such an adjustment as the bearings are different and designed for very high speed , low friction rotation ...We use the mags to control that high speed rotation and hopefully not get birds nests . These reels are given spool end float adjustment only with the spindle nut so that it is just perceptible... Spin the spool several times after each 1/8 turn of the nut and check the end float , When it disappears , back off the nut 1/8 turn and re-spin the spool to re-bed things then finally check it again for JUST perceptible free play .Adding greases and oils will also have a resistance drag effect ,the thicker the oil/grease the more drag

Super distance casters have managed to adapt their casting action to compensate/use the high speed property of the reel without needing to slow it down .

Cleanliness and maintenance of all sorts of reel is important as salt/water and grit ingress will affect your reel speeds.

So everyone is correct in certain circumstances depending on the reel in question .

:secret:
RTFM is a thought that comes to mind and if you do not have the correct manual Manual ask on site if someone has one and ask them to scan you a copy ...its better to get the info from the horses mouth rather that the other end of the horse and ruin a good reel :kissing:

David
 
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