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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After reading about this stuff on here I decided to give it a go the other day to make up some rigs. It is not that long ago that I graduated from sliding stop knots onto crimps, and I've always been a bit wary of the crimps for distance casting.

Anyway long story short the tubing is brilliant! Very quick and easy to use, easy to adjust (knocked up a 2 hook clip down with cascade swivel in minutes and no faffing about getting the snood lengths right) and worked perfectly on the beach with no slippage even with a fish on the end.

Wish I'd made the change ages ago but to anyone out there still mucking around with crimps - ditch them and start using the tubing - it's brill :victory:
 

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Agreed 100%, but just to add...dont use Gemini rig tubing on the rig body itself, the rig body will slice through it like butter as soon as you put any tension on it ie: when casting
 

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Im interested.

This tubing that you so eloquently describe?

In order to GRIP your main line it needs to be of a smaller diameter than your mainline?

How is this possible?
 

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Im interested.

This tubing that you so eloquently describe?

In order to GRIP your main line it needs to be of a smaller diameter than your mainline?

How is this possible?
Nope,

the best you can get/I've used is about 0.7mm - 1mm internal diameter and to use it, you do this, cut to about 7mm in length



if you need any contact David Gould by PM :thumbs:
 

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Im interested.

This tubing that you so eloquently describe?

In order to GRIP your main line it needs to be of a smaller diameter than your mainline?

How is this possible?
I guess that we are talking about cutting a small piece of neoprene tubing, about 3 or 4 mm, then threading the rig body through it twice? then pulling the rig body tight.. you may need 2 or three of these together to make an effective stop..
 

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Nope,

the best you can get/I've used is about 0.7mm - 1mm internal diameter and to use it, you do this, cut to about 7mm in length



if you need any contact David Gould by PM :thumbs:
Same thing really, except I find that a piece about 7mm long tends to kink the rig body.. but then most of my rigs are made up of only 60lb line, 2 x 4mm pieces doesn't kink the line at all. Not that a small kink really matters that much! just find it a bit irritating.
 

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I find that a piece about 7mm long tends to kink the rig body
Ahh now THAT was a problem I contemplated. (not a nooby to fishing)

Therefore how can OR can you realistically adjust the mainline without kinking it?

Afterall I do not (pardon the pun knot) fly fish in this manner so why should sea fishing be any any different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Steve it is the Gemini stuff got it from Lock Stock on Elm Grove in Portsmouth. Using the neoprene for trapping swivels on the main rig body and some standard silicone tubing for bait stops on my snoods. I use 80lb Sufix for my rig body and it works fine, two 4 - 5mm lengths below the bead trapping the swivel and one above and it is pretty solid.

That said will be following Wooky's advice and PM'ing Mr Gould for the next lot I need as by all accounts his stuff is first class.
 

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Ahh now THAT was a problem I contemplated. (not a nooby to fishing)

Therefore how can OR can you realistically adjust the mainline without kinking it?

Afterall I do not (pardon the pun knot) fly fish in this manner so why should sea fishing be any any different?
Hi, as stated earlier, use 2 smaller cuts of tubing, one behind the other.
You'll find this doesn't kink the line but should hold just as well..
 

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As Wooky has already said... there is nout wrong with the Gemini Silicone tubing.

I use it on all my rigs, I normally use around 5 2mil pieces under each hook lenght swivel to hold it and just a couple above.

Always holds when casting, occasionally when you go to reel in and a hook is snagged one might get dragged down, but its a 10 second job to reposition it again.

Especially good if there are lots of hook snipping crabs around as you dont have to try and get the new hook length the exact length to clip down again.
 

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Anyone done a comparison of a rig body made up with silicon and one with crimps pulling against a set of decent scales?. I'm pretty sure turning the rig body over on itself will reduce the breaking strain considerably after half a dozen casts.
 

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Agreed 100%, but just to add...dont use Gemini rig tubing on the rig body itself, the rig body will slice through it like butter as soon as you put any tension on it ie: when casting
Got to agree about the Gemini silicone tubing, i made up some 2 and 3 hooked clipped down gemini boom rigs,used the gemini silicone tubing as stops(2 pieces used each side of the beads by the booms) Put the traces away,went to use them at a later date and most of the tubing stop knots were undone/split. Didnt want to bin the rigs,so used powergum as stops to make them useable.

I use a different make of tubing now and have had no more problems. I personally use 3 stops(4mm approx) each side of the beads at the swivels /booms and one stop at the beads used as attractors near hooks to keep the beads near the hook on running ledgers, and two stops near the beads on clipped down rigs if using beads/sequins as stops/attractors on clipped down rigs .

Using tubing instead of crimps on rough groung rigs can see the snood move on the rig body under heavy pressure,this can sometimes release a snagged rig.
 

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Anyone done a comparison of a rig body made up with silicon and one with crimps pulling against a set of decent scales?. I'm pretty sure turning the rig body over on itself will reduce the breaking strain considerably after half a dozen casts.
What I do is pull about 1ft of extra rig body legnth out to work with for turning the line over itself when initially assembling the rig - tie on bottom clip first, then put all crimps/beads/swivels/tubing on at once, slide them all down, then cut the curly/kinky bit you have been working with at the top of the rig clean of. Then you have a perfect rig body without a single kink or bend. I get paranoid about kinks and would chuck a slightly dodgy looking rig right in the bin.
 

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I've been using David Goulds silicon tubing, 7mm lengths, on my 80lb rig bodies and have to say that the kinking effect is minimal. I think it may depend on the type of line used in the rig bodies.
For a clip down single rig I use 3 stops above the snood swivel and 4 stops below and havent had any problems with them slipping - even on some of my mistimed, snatched and whirling dervish attempts at the pendulum.
 

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when the silicone is put on properly there is no line kink. the line is straight but the tube is turned in on itself.
3 sections under a snood swivel on a flapper will hold a pretty decent fish before moving. and six sections under a spring will hold a pendulum cast without slipping.
 

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Totally agree , I recently got into using silicon and its awesome. I love how you can just slide it on the rig body to get the hook snood at the right length for fixing to a bait clip, or for quickly turning a rig from say a 1 up to a 1 down etc.
 

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Just remember that they will "slip" easier when under water than when you test them dry.. Not always a bad thing, a single hook pat can work like a pulley rig if you don't put too many knots under the swivel..
just slide it back up to the top knot/crimp when you rebait & you're ready to go again.
 

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have been building rigs this way for a while now and ifs so simple ahd can be fun if you get difrent colour tubeing all my rigs are now colour coded and easy to fined in the rig wallet plus its so much easyer to atach hook lengths to aint got to be spot on far better then crimps bob
 
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