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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had the new boat out today on a flat calm Loch Lomond for a run. All went well apart from very noticable porpoising at every trim height setting apart from fully down whenever I give her a wee bit of throttle. The anti-cavitation plate is placed about 2cm below the keel when fully down. I'll post a pic of that later.

So what's the opinion - and why? Is the engine too high or too low?
 

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Had the new boat out today on a flat calm Loch Lomond for a run. All went well apart from very noticable porpoising at every trim height setting apart from fully down whenever I give her a wee bit of throttle. The anti-cavitation plate is placed about 2cm below the keel when fully down. I'll post a pic of that later.

So what's the opinion - and why? Is the engine too high or too low?
i've seen this on warriors with e-techs before, but funnily enough, my mate has a 165 with a mariner 60hp 2 stroke bigfoot, and it doesn't happen with his.

is the problem the boat or engine........???????

or maybe a combination of both??
 

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Hi TB

This is a common problem with 165's

It is a case moving things about to get a better balance or fit some trim tabs.

I have a 165 and start to get this problem @ about 22kts+ as it is not often that I can use this speed at sea I am not that bothered. :)

If you go for the Smart trim tabs, make sure you have the correct actuators rated at 60lb - Kit number ST 1290-60

Regards

Dave
:boat:
 

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Hi TB

This is a common problem with 165's

It is a case moving things about to get a better balance or fit some trim tabs.

I have a 165 and start to get this problem @ about 22kts+ as it is not often that I can use this speed at sea I am not that bothered. :)

If you go for the Smart trim tabs, make sure you have the correct actuators rated at 60lb - Kit number ST 1290-60

Regards

Dave
:boat:
Daves answer is spot on, most Warrior owners down here have fitted Smartabs (the 60lb loaded ones). I had a Samurai which has the same hull as the Warrior. The addition of Smartabs made it a different boat, very quick on the plane and responded to the O/B trim setting far more positively.

The cost about £180 in the UK which is a rip off. If you know someone in America get them to buy some from one of the USA mail order companies have them delivered to their home and get them to re-wrap them without any trade logos on the wrapping then sent to the UK via UPS. I did and saved £100.

Afishionado
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here she is. I have to say that the there wasn't a lot of weight on the back end and this may have contributed.
 

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Here she is. I have to say that the there wasn't a lot of weight on the back end and this may have contributed.
I am also an advocate of Doel Fins (or their clones) It would be £20 and four holes in your cavitation plate to find out if they help. Generaly speaking those that use them like them. Those that don't want to put holes in their cavitation plate don't like them. I have put them on my last 3 O/B powered boats and never regreted doing so. Again more lift out of the hole to get on the plane and more posative reaction to trim setting.

Afishionado
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
She doesn't have any problem rising up - not with a 90hp Etec:) :) :)
 

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Same happens on mine too at full speed (with Etec 75) . Ideally you need a bit more weight up front to stop it or as suggested trim tabs. Personally, its very rarely I can get full speed due to sea conditions and its such a minor problem I dont feel its worth it to fit them. I try whenever possible to trim the boat with spare fuel/gear/lead weights etc as far forward as possible.
 

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Had the new boat out today on a flat calm Loch Lomond for a run. All went well apart from very noticable porpoising at every trim height setting apart from fully down whenever I give her a wee bit of throttle. The anti-cavitation plate is placed about 2cm below the keel when fully down. I'll post a pic of that later.

So what's the opinion - and why? Is the engine too high or too low?
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your new boat.

I have the doel fins on my Seahgg and they work well. No power trim.

But should a new boat be so badly designed that it is unstable?

Did the dealer not say anything about these things when you were sold the boat/engine combo?
Seems odd to me that it would need additional trim tabs to keep it stable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My thoughts exactly rajabatis. Warrior supply the Etec 75 as one of their packages, which is the same engine and weight as my 90. Before anyone says that the Warrior 165 is rated to 80hp max - I have limited the throttle.:)

Trim tabs were mentioned at the Boat show - as in "You won't need those with an Etec because they are so light".

I do want control of the trim as it also helps with the most economic setting. I do intend some 50 mile + days later in the year, so the difference in fuel economy on those days will be a fair whack.
 

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My thoughts exactly rajabatis. Warrior supply the Etec 75 as one of their packages, which is the same engine and weight as my 90. Before anyone says that the Warrior 165 is rated to 80hp max - I have limited the throttle.:)

Trim tabs were mentioned at the Boat show - as in "You won't need those with an Etec because they are so light".

I do want control of the trim as it also helps with the most economic setting. I do intend some 50 mile + days later in the year, so the difference in fuel economy on those days will be a fair whack.
Aside from your boat stabilty problems. How did you find the ETec motor? Was it what you expected?
 

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My thoughts exactly rajabatis. Warrior supply the Etec 75 as one of their packages, which is the same engine and weight as my 90. Before anyone says that the Warrior 165 is rated to 80hp max - I have limited the throttle.:)

Trim tabs were mentioned at the Boat show - as in "You won't need those with an Etec because they are so light".

I do want control of the trim as it also helps with the most economic setting. I do intend some 50 mile + days later in the year, so the difference in fuel economy on those days will be a fair whack.
Hi Just went out with a torch to compare your motor height with my own.
The top plate on my motor is level with the boat bottom. The other cav plate above the prop is much lower than the 2cms you say you one is at.
I don't know if that is any help or pointer to your problem.
Someone will know if this is correct for your boat surely?
 

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Get the Smart Tabs they will solve the problem - 100%

It is not a question of a poor design, or engine mountng, just a whacking big engine on a small boat - dont forget it is still only 16'.

When Warrior started to make the 165 most boats had a 40/50hp engine. Shortly the 60hp was considered std - a small minority then started to fit 75hp's but the cowling size limited this...

...Anyway Evinrude then bring out the Etec which is much smaller - so over night 75hp becomes the std and even 90hp's are possible.

BTW - if you think the Warrior's are bad the 16' raider suffers even worse.

Anyway - the smart tabs force the bow down, give a smoother ride, better fuel economy and stop the porposing. They are not a miracle cure and wont make the boat behave like a 20 footer, but they are worth ever penny.

IMO - Warrior should fit them as standard.
 

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Hi Just went out with a torch to compare your motor height with my own.
The top plate on my motor is level with the boat bottom. The other cav plate above the prop is much lower than the 2cms you say you one is at.
I don't know if that is any help or pointer to your problem.
Someone will know if this is correct for your boat surely?
The anti cav plate should be no more than an half an inch to an inch below the bottom of the transom, it will cause instability & drag if too low, the 2cms sounds about spot on, you need to look elsewhere for the problem its not the engine height.
Stick Doels on as a start, if they solve the problem you can always go for the "super duper" trim tabs later on.
blueskip
 

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The design of the hull is fine.

I would imagine that like myself, Warrior trim the transom height using templates or scribe marks in the moulds. So the height of the transom should not be different from one boat to the next.

What restriction has been made to the throttle on the Etec?
 

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Get the Smart Tabs they will solve the problem - 100%

It is not a question of a poor design, or engine mountng, just a whacking big engine on a small boat - dont forget it is still only 16'.

When Warrior started to make the 165 most boats had a 40/50hp engine. Shortly the 60hp was considered std - a small minority then started to fit 75hp's but the cowling size limited this...

...Anyway Evinrude then bring out the Etec which is much smaller - so over night 75hp becomes the std and even 90hp's are possible.

BTW - if you think the Warrior's are bad the 16' raider suffers even worse.

Anyway - the smart tabs force the bow down, give a smoother ride, better fuel economy and stop the porposing. They are not a miracle cure and wont make the boat behave like a 20 footer, but they are worth ever penny.

IMO - Warrior should fit them as standard.
Well I'm no expert but this thread started by Blueskip indicate a different motor level (30 to 50mm) to the one teckety has and what blue is saying now is right.
http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48677&highlight=engine+height
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The design of the hull is fine.

I would imagine that like myself, Warrior trim the transom height using templates or scribe marks in the moulds. So the height of the transom should not be different from one boat to the next.

What restriction has been made to the throttle on the Etec?
I've fitted a mechanical restriction to the throttle lever to physically stop it going fully forward. WOT is now around 4500rpm as opposed to 5500 rpm when fitted to my previous (slightly larger) boat. I enquired to see if my dealer could do something electronics wise when he fitted the engine to my new boat last week, but he said he couldn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Aside from your boat stabilty problems. How did you find the ETec motor? Was it what you expected?
My Etec did 23 hrs last year on a slightly larger boat. It's the dog's danglies!
 

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There are a couple of illustrations & handbooks on that other thread that state the anti cav plate should be between 30mm & 50mm BELOW the lowest part of the keel, which is 11/4" to 2"! I have always been given to believe that 30mm would be the maximum, but the manufacturers should know, as Endeavour Boats have said they template the transoms, so they should be right.
Lets face it boats are like women, if they all looked & acted the same, we wouldn't always be lusting over our mates wives & girlfriends!:oops:
My Doel Fins have made a huge difference, she gets up quickly, & does 16knots at 3000rpm, & is very stable & comfortable at that, she gets up to about 28knots at 5500rpm, but it has to be as flat as a witches tit to do that!:nonono:
blueskip
 
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