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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any suggestions?????

Went down to the boat yard this evening to flush and run the engine before tomorrows trip out. Engine started first time. I tried to trim the engine up and it sounded week and laboured then stopped. I fiddled with the wires and it moved a bit, then tapped the motor and it moved a bit, then took the top of the motor housing and found corrosion around the terminals and points. Cleaned it all up and nothing!!

Now the engine is stuck up half way and my £30 of sand eel and king rag is now going shore fishing!!

I am going down tomorrow with a multi metre to check power to the motor but not a mechanic by any means
 

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Interesting, I have noticed the housings on Merc / Mariner trim motors and hydraulic cylinders corroding badly on 3 - 4 year old motors wheras OMC, Yam Suzi, Honda have no / negligable corrosion at this age. Could their coatings be at fault?

Not that they will ever admit it!!!
 

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Wind Up Merchant
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friend had one that done exatly the same thing ,yes it was corrosion inside the housing of the tilt n trim, lucky he had a 90 year old grandad to strip it and repair it ,but it was never the same:crazy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I stripped the motor and found corrosion on the points and the wires into the motor, tidied them up but nothing! I am not sure how to check if its electrical or if the motor is kaputtt?

Are there any trick of the trade to isolate the problem?
 

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Captain Chaos!
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Interesting, I have noticed the housings on Merc / Mariner trim motors and hydraulic cylinders corroding badly on 3 - 4 year old motors wheras OMC, Yam Suzi, Honda have no / negligable corrosion at this age. Could their coatings be at fault?

Not that they will ever admit it!!!

Hiya, Totally agree there...my Mariner is a 2002, and the T&T housing is very badly corroded, tho seems sound......think I'll give it a once over, a wee clean up and a coat of something before the next trip..

Thanks for mentioning it..
 

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Hi A.W.
My 60hp also very Bad corrosion on T and T Motor and is not powerful enough to help the boat go over the hump so have to have the manual bolts in position to get there.

Still No word from the Marine Engineer Norrie....Take my mates boat there for layup for selling so will talk to him then...

Hope you get your problem sorted Army Warrior ,..sorry I arn,t much help.
KB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies, can the engine be dropped down manually? Its stuck have way up?

Thanks again
 

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Captain Chaos!
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Thanks for the replies, can the engine be dropped down manually? Its stuck have way up?

Thanks again
Hiya, According to the workshop manual for my 50hp Mariner, yes, it can be raised and lowered manually...by opening the Manual Release valve 3 or 4 turns...if you send me your email addy, I'll send the scanned pages from the manual..:) and a PDF copy of the manual as well..:)

Peter, Sorry to hear of the probs with your engine mate....hope it goes well mate...

Looks like I'm back at MOG at the end of the month..:):) Lucky old me...;)
 

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Had sme problem with my 40 mariner. There was a lot or corrosion also.
Cleaned everything up and refilled fluid. But after a week the tilt stuck and had to release manually. The screw was located bottom right of t&t housing. This problem occured several more times, even after cleaning each time.
Then i noticed, but only just, the blob of solder holding the wire onto the bi-metallic strip (sprung steel bit in the points) had come off. If you didn't look at it real closely it looked perfect, and just resting on top.
Difficult to resolder onto the sprung steel even after ruffing it up.
Drilled tiny hole that alowed wire to go through and key the solder on better.
Might be worth a check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Stripped the motor back down and dropped the armature in to be tested. Tried the multi metre on the earth and main feeds into the motor - all seem fine??

If the armature is fine any suggestion were to check next??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I thought of that, they seem to click in when pressed up or down, theres current to all the connectors so dont know how to test the actual relay other than buy listening????
 

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Swap the relays over, they have common connections, trouble going up, swap relays, trouble going down.

I suspect it is the motor and not the relays though, if you try out all the tests and come to the same conclusion take the motor to an auto electrician rewind shop. The good ones will be able to refurbish the motor completely, for a fraction of the price of new.

The problem you now have is stopping water getting in to the good, refurb motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Swap the relays over, they have common connections, trouble going up, swap relays, trouble going down.

I suspect it is the motor and not the relays though, if you try out all the tests and come to the same conclusion take the motor to an auto electrician rewind shop. The good ones will be able to refurbish the motor completely, for a fraction of the price of new.

The problem you now have is stopping water getting in to the good, refurb motor.
Spannerswinger - you are spot on! The motor is low on insulation and given the corrosion that was showing i would be foolish to have it rewound and not address the ingress. I have found a motor and reservoir from the states but not sure if its the right one?

Ebay item:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0330422482&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

You should run your own online advise/consultation service on repairs and maintenance - Thanks again friend!!! Wayne
 
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