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I've been looking at various article about the configuration of guides on a rod. I watched a video on you tube where the rod builder Lou Caruso taped the guides on.

The first guide he laid was called the choker and it had to be 27 X the spool diameter from the lip of the spool.

In order to place the first ring guide he taped a length of braid from the spindle of the reel to the choker guide.

He was then able to offer up different first guides. The way he did this was to place the guide so that the braid was in contact with the guide. In the video he initially offered the largest guide, but this would have been to close to the reel. I found it interesting that the way he offered the guide up to the braid interesting. This could possibly be a way to buy ready made rods. Firstly measure the distance from the spool of your reel on the rod to the choker guide. Secondly compare where the braid sits when run from the reel to the choker, from the centre of the spool.

 

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vid is a good idea for the future rod builders ;)
there are many ways to layout the guides : "each school" has their opinions

when i build mines , i do it a little differently from the video : attach my line to the reel center ( like he did) and tie it to the tip guide (inside the ring) than , place the other guides with the line IN the CENTER
but , i put the blank the other side ( reel down) so the line follows the natural blank "curve" ( position of your rod after cast with a fixed spool , NB: the other way with a conventional reel)

for the first guide ( reel side) , i choose a guide about half size of the spool diameter , for the others it's up to you( i like small ones : line is better guided when windy , more sensitivity , less weight so rod better balanced , rod becomes more fast/steely )
you will be surprised at the difference of your rod when you change just your tip guide with one of half weight (even going from 0.5 gr to 0.25 gr ! it's unbelievable)

on all my rods , i change the tip guide for a titanium frame (fuji torzite , much lighter too) THAT inproves greatly the sensitivity : give it a try ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
vid is a good idea for the future rod builders ;)
there are many ways to layout the guides : "each school" has their opinions

when i build mines , i do it a little differently from the video : attach my line to the reel center ( like he did) and tie it to the tip guide (inside the ring) than , place the other guides with the line IN the CENTER
but , i put the blank the other side ( reel down) so the line follows the natural blank "curve" ( position of your rod after cast with a fixed spool , NB: the other way with a conventional reel)

for the first guide ( reel side) , i choose a guide about half size of the spool diameter , for the others it's up to you( i like small ones : line is better guided when windy , more sensitivity , less weight so rod better balanced , rod becomes more fast/steely )
you will be surprised at the difference of your rod when you change just your tip guide with one of half weight (even going from 0.5 gr to 0.25 gr ! it's unbelievable)

on all my rods , i change the tip guide for a titanium frame (fuji torzite , much lighter too) THAT inproves greatly the sensitivity : give it a try ;)
Thanks for that! So if your rods were for sale in a shop for optimum performance I should compare my spool to the first ring
 

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As Sergei says there are lots of methods of laying out guides. For lure rods I use KR Concept lots of information here https://anglersresource.net/ and at Guides and Blanks.
The idea is to use the smallest butt ring possible, the height of the ring is more important than the size, get the line down to the blank and running straight as fast as possible and fit the smallest running guides that you can. You can arrange your reduction guides to suit a specific reel, lots of test casting needed to get the butt ring positioned. Normally for a fast choke you will find that the reduction train, first four rings, is the same length or slightly more than the distance from the reel spindle half extended to the butt ring. Mass produced rods are unlikely to have been built for a specific size of reel and will have a detuned layout but most modern lure rods seem to be built to KR Concept. You wont get a Fuji KL ring larger than 25mm and usually a 20mm butt ring works fine with a 4000 size reel.
Lighter rings are highly desirable but the Titanium versions are way out of my paygrade.
 

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a few variables to consider,spool diameter and avv.line thickness will all have an effect on how that first guide performs.
some rod manufacturers ,i have noticed ,now ads an suggested real to the rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is interesting how most shimanoranges and diawaranges of reels have the same profile these days
 

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The manufacturers have always differed in reel size for a given number. It's just ignorance in these days when many sales will be from the web
 
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