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Hi Guys,

I have a Warrior with a red hull. Over the years it has taken the usual knicks and scratches. Is there anyway of repairing the damaged gel coat?

Also can you tell me how easy/difficult it is to apply a new coat of gel coat? The red has bleached in places leaving black stains which i've been told are impossible to remove.

Cheers for your help
 

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Red is the worst pigment of all for bleaching in sunlight. Without getting too technical the red portion of light has the biggest effect.

It is possible to repair but you need to know which shade of red was used originally, Warrior will help with that, looking at the colours of gell on them I would guess they us Scott Bader resins. http://www.scottbader.com/pub.nsf/Content/UK_Home
Warrior will probably supply you with some gellcoat (with wax, important) to repair your nicks.

The trouble will be it does not match your now faded gell coat. before you go down the repair route invest in some Farecla G3 paste and G10 Polish. Rub a badly faded area with the G3 and polish with the G10. Do one of the black bits as well. If all is well when you have finished then contact Warrior for the gell to repair.

The re gellcoat of the entire hull is a job that can be done but requires a huge ammount of effort to get it smooth. You will have musces that will put Arnie to shame when you have finished.
 

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Red is the worst pigment of all for bleaching in sunlight. Without getting too technical the red portion of light has the biggest effect.

It is possible to repair but you need to know which shade of red was used originally, Warrior will help with that, looking at the colours of gell on them I would guess they us Scott Bader resins. http://www.scottbader.com/pub.nsf/Content/UK_Home
Warrior will probably supply you with some gellcoat (with wax, important) to repair your nicks.

The trouble will be it does not match your now faded gell coat. before you go down the repair route invest in some Farecla G3 paste and G10 Polish. Rub a badly faded area with the G3 and polish with the G10. Do one of the black bits as well. If all is well when you have finished then contact Warrior for the gell to repair.

The re gellcoat of the entire hull is a job that can be done but requires a huge ammount of effort to get it smooth. You will have musces that will put Arnie to shame when you have finished.

Chris has given the 'first attempt' definitive answer, but I would like to hear his opinion on the 'if all else fails' two pack epoxy paint re-paint.
International Paints as I am sure he knows have a very good complete epoxy system for the DIY restorer of GRP hulls and I have been impressed with the results of what I have seen. However I think Chris's experiance of this process may be far more than mine, hence my interest in what he has to say about it.

Afishionado
 

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The epoxy paint is great if you have the right conditions to apply it and you follow the instructions to the letter, they even hand out a free CD with tips and techniques. It is a comparatively expensive fix compared to compounding the hull and filling the chips. I would guess if it works the gellcoat and farecla would come to less than £50 and a whole lot of elbowgrease.

The only reason I didn't mention it was the original question asked about re gellcoating and gellcoat repairs.
 

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Mmm, yes I did forget the expence bit but if the fading and staining doesn't polish out then IMO an epoxy paint system is the way to get the boat back to a new shine. But get the info' pack first and read it thouroughly then after filling and preping the hull one has to wait for a week of settled warm weather with little wind if doing the job outdoors.

On the elbow grease subject, how effective/dangerous would a power buffer be?

Could it make the whole polishing job easy? Or a disaster?

Afishionado
 

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Chris, why do you need wax in the gel?
 

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Farecla is formulated for power polishing, however the G3 is very fast cutting, this is best done by hand if you are not experienced due to the thickness of Gellcoat, it can vary enormously over a hull, the G10 polish is much finer and lends itself more to a machine buffing.
 

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Gellcoat is normally applied to the inside of a mould so it cures without air being present. Gellcoat used for repairs will naturally be exposed to air as it cures and this retards the cure so it stays sticky for ages. If a 2% wax addative is included in the gellcoat it floats to the surface of the gellcoat as it cures and seals out the air. You get a complete cure with it, without a sticky mess basically.
 

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Electric polishing the gelcoat with G3 isn't a problem.
1 litre of G3 is about £16.

If the entire hull was re-gel coated i presume it would be done with a roller? using G3 to get roller marks out of gelcoat would take about a million years, even with a polisher :) i would say it would have to be flatted out with wet n' dry first, then compounded with an electric polisher and G3 or G6 first even which is coarser, G10 would make virtually no impression on gelcoat, G3 puts a high gloss shine on gelcoat anyway.

Chris is bang on about getting Arnie arms doing it (just the compounding), i reckon there's about 3 cars worth of polisihng in a Sea Jeep hull :)

Not an expert on gelcoat, apart from what i have done on my boat but, i know some about re-finishing materials.

AL ..
 

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Electric polishing the gelcoat with G3 isn't a problem.
1 litre of G3 is about £16.

If the entire hull was re-gel coated i presume it would be done with a roller? using G3 to get roller marks out of gelcoat would take about a million years, even with a polisher :) i would say it would have to be flatted out with wet n' dry first, then compounded with an electric polisher and G3 or G6 first even which is coarser, G10 would make virtually no impression on gelcoat, G3 puts a high gloss shine on gelcoat anyway.

Chris is bang on about getting Arnie arms doing it (just the compounding), i reckon there's about 3 cars worth of polisihng in a Sea Jeep hull :)

Not an expert on gelcoat, apart from what i have done on my boat but, i know some about re-finishing materials.

AL ..
If you do recoat a hull in gellcoat you use a "longboard" anything up to 6 sheets worth of wet and dry fixed to it. You go through the grades, coarse to extreemly fine, then start on the compounding. The only tip I can give you to make it a bit easier is a squirt of fairy liquid in the water when using the wet and dry, stops the paper clogging a bit and slightly easier to slide the board. Absolute nightmare, make it 30 cars worth Al. :)
 

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It can be done....

I did it a few years back on a lowly dejon 14 hull. slap some new gel coat on me thinks, quick, cheap and easy...

given a curing time of 20 to 30 mins I managed to get the whole thing covered in under an hour and 3 'mixes'

I then spent about a week with and orbital sander, starting at 240 grit working down to 1200, then what seems like as much again with an electric polisher, rubbing compound and various grades of farecla till yes it looked like a lovely shiny hull again.

would I do it again, err...... I'd rather not, sooner spend 2 weeks fishing in a scruffy boat than 2 weeks covering myself in white dust

forgot to mention the couple of areas I had to redo where previous gel coat repairs reacted badly with the new flow coat

I was going to redo the topside as well but thought sod that and painted it in 2 pack instead, which was fine except its no where near s hard wearing, and anywhere that rubs - fenders/ropes etc doesn't last long before the previous coating shows through and any little knocks from lead weights/pirks/anchors etc tends to chip too easily

it was my first boat so was obviously fired up about making my new ride look the dog's doodahs. I'm sure many of us have been through similar 'first boat' epiphany's!! you know the one where you get your 'bargain' boat home, proud as anything and start on it... then several months later, 'if" you get it finished you start to look at it and think "It would of been cheaper to just buy a decent boat in the first place"
 

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Cloudy

The first thing I would try on the existing gel coat,,,,,, on the worst area try flatting it back with a rubber block 1200 grit wet n dry paper and water, the gel coat will go matt!!! but then try polishing that area with Farecle G3 , I think you will be surprised at the result. Then fill any chips etc with car body filler, then go over the filler with gel coat, when this has cured it can then be flattened with wet n dry, and polished with the G3
 

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Is it possible to spray paint gelcoat?, maybe thinned with acetone? - I know most modern car paints are two-part......
 

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Is it possible to spray paint gelcoat?, maybe thinned with acetone? - I know most modern car paints are two-part......
You can buy spray gel coat, it needs a special gun to spray it, the spraygun is more like a sandblasting gun.

The finish would still not end up flat and smooth, more a pebbledash effect i would imagine, may make the job easier, but much messier i would imagine - as you can see, i'm guessing a lot as i have never sprayed gel coat :)

ChrisP - yes i agree it seems like 30 cars, a lot of that is due to the severe hardness of the gelcoat, where you would spend a minute on an area of 2 pack paint on a car, you'd spend 10 minutes on the same area of gel coat, i spent about 2 weeks G3'ing the underside of my Sea Jeep and the hull was basically pretty good, with hindsight, i should have 240 / 1000 grit wet n' dry the whole thing, then G3 it, probably would have been quicker and easier - one of the worst things about it, is holding a heavy polisher upside down for hours on end, mine was still trailered.

Anyone going down the painting route, might want to look into using the new water based paints, they aren't toxic like 2k Acrylic is, water based should be fine, new cars are now painted with it, but would be worth a check, as cars don't normally get submurged in seawater :)

AL ..
 

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paint it 2pk international
That's all well and good if he has the right safety gear to use with 2K, if you don't use an air fed mask, you'll be pretty ill when you're finished, unless you do it outside, are very careful and lucky.

AL ..
 
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