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I have recently tied up a few flapper rigs but as I had no crimps I have learnt how to tie the stand off dropper loop after seeing an article on Google.
They look the part and seem to do the same job as crimps, the only worry I had is if they would be more prone to tangles so I was curious to hear of anyone else ties there rigs like this rather than the usual method using crimps and beads?
Any help will be much appreciated as always
 

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I make all my bream boat rigs and other flappers like that.

Tend to need a stiffish line though ie 30lb up, so i find that doesn’t really work for longer snood clip down flappers with lighter snoods.

But it’s a quick and cheap way to make a two hook short snood flapper that doesn’t need to be cast miles.
 

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Sounds promising pal! I guess it only takes a few casts to find out if it works or not.
I know swivels, crimps and beads etc are all inexpensive but if I can do the same thing without them or use less them I'm tight enough to do so
Extra money to spend on the bank breaking bait bill haha
 

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I use 80lb for my rig body for feathers with droppers tied in then just tie my feathers on , never get tangles
 

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I have recently tied up a few flapper rigs but as I had no crimps I have learnt how to tie the stand off dropper loop after seeing an article on Google.
They look the part and seem to do the same job as crimps, the only worry I had is if they would be more prone to tangles so I was curious to hear of anyone else ties there rigs like this rather than the usual method using crimps and beads?
Any help will be much appreciated as always
I use them on my rough ground rigs.
Strong swivel, 80lb trace, dropper loop, at the bottom of the rig I put a upside down "rig and bait clip", 20-25lb mono tied to the bottom of the rig clip for a rotten bottom, lead eye hangs on the upturned bait clip during the cast.
For the snood I use 80lb again to a single (usually) Varivas Saltwater match 3/0. Any hook that will bend out of a snag will do.

No tangles to report and makes losing rigs cheap.
 

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You could try the twisted blood loop for an even stiffer boom , I've even used it at the clip end of my snoods to kick bait away from the lead.
 

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Sounds promising pal! I guess it only takes a few casts to find out if it works or not.
I know swivels, crimps and beads etc are all inexpensive but if I can do the same thing without them or use less them I'm tight enough to do so
Extra money to spend on the bank breaking bait bill haha
Just to add, I use blood loops to create mine.

They will cast okay but better with fish or squid baits that won’t fly off like worm tends to. If I’m using worm I usually go for some sort of clip down
 

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I have a method of tying up flappers that don't use blood loops but are basically a stopknot tied onto the main rig body with a long tag end (the snood). So, standard rig body you like to use, 60lb or whatever. Then tie on snood mono like 15 or 25lb using something like a 10-turn stopper, like the business end of a uni knot. If you put the snood end of the top side of the stopper and snip off the tag/lower side of the knot, then the snoods stick off a little under the weight of a light worm bait or similar and tangle less when sitting with the weight down. It also puts some good tension on the stopper when under load of a fish pulling against the rod tip.

Being basically stop knots means that they have the potential to slide on the main rig body when under serious pressure, but it's a rig I like for kids and popping light baits a little way out, and it doesn't use any extra gear. Blood loops in hefty rig body line can be a bit clunky even if you are good at tying them.
 

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Be wary of this method.
Years ago when this was a common method of forming the standoff on the rig body it was tested to see how or if it affected the integrity of the main line (rig body).
Basically the loop halved the strength of the rig body. It is after all a strangulation type knot.
Fine if using 80 lb bs line and casting 4 ozs or less not so good if using 50 lb bs rig body and 5 ozs leads.

Its great to use where long distance (high velocity) casting is not needed, from a boat or when light leads are used. Its also the main reason why shop bought feathers snap halfway along their length with subsequent tin helmet denting leads flying along the beach.
 

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Be wary of this method.
Years ago when this was a common method of forming the standoff on the rig body it was tested to see how or if it affected the integrity of the main line (rig body).
Basically the loop halved the strength of the rig body. It is after all a strangulation type knot.
Fine if using 80 lb bs line and casting 4 ozs or less not so good if using 50 lb bs rig body and 5 ozs leads.

Its great to use where long distance (high velocity) casting is not needed, from a boat or when light leads are used. Its also the main reason why shop bought feathers snap halfway along their length with subsequent tin helmet denting leads flying along the beach.
Yes there’s truth in that. I’ve lost a couple of good fish when they’ve taken small hook blood loop flapper rigs meant for far smaller species.
In both cases where they needed to be lifted some distance up to rocks and the rig just wasn’t up to it.
But in each case they were very much not the target and although I cursed to lose them, at the time I accepted I was fishing with a weaker rig that potentially would not land a big fish.
But then what flapper would land an 8/9lb huss or spur (which is what they were) on a high rock mark with no access to the water?

But for bream etc, boat or shore, they work very well for me. (Not power casting)
 

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Be wary of this method.
Basically the loop halved the strength of the rig body. It is after all a strangulation type knot.
.
Having bench tested a whole array of knots and lines.........I only use two knots. Mahins for main to leader, palomar for line to hooks and swivels. Even a good double uni will severely lower the breaking strain by a third to half, the rest are even worse.
 
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