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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well if I knew how to change a thread title I would change my "Blade fuse sizes" thread as most of this is on there already!
Started on Saturday afternoon, a few hours well spent taking the old out ready for the new to go in.
Piccy's and a more detailed write up here....http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/showthread.php/1463692-Blade-fuse-sizes/page2

I will be building the internals of the housing at home, so will get a few pics of that in the next day or so, then fitting it in a few weeks time.

Jeff.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The cable runs about the boat appear ok to be honest puckoon.........its the snakes orgy in the box and the dodgy joints there that is the main concern. Its a case of various electrical items being added over the years by the previous owner, but just "tapped" in as it were.
A new dash and gauges to fit as well, then a covering of sound absorbing carpet material all over the cockpit and she will look a lot less grumpy! Hope to build the insides of the junction/fuse box this week at home so will get a few pics of it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok......here is my first idea.
Been playing around with all the bits I have kept from the origional wireing/junction box, and am thinking along the lines of whats in the picture.
Using the old box and busbars, with the positive feed on the left side bb, this will feed the fuse holder (or holders) which in turn will feed the connection block (or blocks). I need only 4 connections here (the rest is all through a new 8 gang switch panel) but I am thinking wire up for more "just in case" they are needed later, so I have put a total of 12 in. Circuit component Hardware programmer Wood Audio equipment Electronic component

I have used my meter leads just as a means of making the whole thing easier to see btw.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just a means of connecting the positives up Paul. The fuse holders don't offer a whole lot of space underneath them, so I was just thinking it would be easier to make the connections via the blocks. Would you not recommend them them then Paul?
In hindsight, I suppose I could leave enough cable between the +bb and the fuse holders so that I could loosen the fuse holder fixing screws and lift it a little to get better access, then use terminals direct onto them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Morning guys........thanks again for all the input.
Well my sparky was looking over my shoulder at this thread this morning, and like Paul, he to does not particularly like " those ****y little choc blocks"......his words, not mine.....although he said they do have a place, but not ideal for my purpose.
He can supply me with a "din"???......type fitting to use. I am in work so can't get a picture of it, but it is almost identical to this one

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Position-Covered-Screw-Terminal-Strip/dp/B008DS2AWM/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1

He then tutted a bit, shook his head, tutted some more and said "bring it in to work and I will start you off building it all up".

So, total cost of all parts, connectors and cable, plus training and supervision is zero pounds so far!

Dare I ask him if he has tinned wire?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fair point well made as usual Paul!............I must admit though, I am taken by the Bluesea fuse holder. Could I take a feed from the Bluesea box to my switch panel as its positive feed Paul?...say from the positive input at the BB? Just kind of a terminal connection at the input position then run the cable on up to my switches?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers Paul....got me thinking about plan b now!
No arguement that it would be neater, easier to wire and more than likely more reliable.
Well it will be a while before I progress now (work and family getting in the way again!) but rest assured, I will be back as when I need to update the thread.
Many thanks again for all the input :)
 

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Rich, could we have a link please ?
Hiya
I don't have a link here, the only ones i could find on google were at West marine in the US, all the ones over here seem to be positive only but mine have the negative bus also.

They will be listed on my new webshop next month but it hasn't been upoaded yet. do you want me to take pics of the internals for you ?


The Halfords LED fuses are 3.99 for 2 fuses it looks like, I have 4 in a pack 3/5/7.5/10 amp for £5.25 so looks like i am cheaper :)

Funny thing is I was doing that 15 years ago on my sailboat, if you wire an LED across a fuse the elctrickery takes the path of least resistance so flows through the fuse not the LED. if the fuse blows then the LED lights up as the power only has one way to go.

Anybody want them contact me direct at the shop, 10% off for forum guys :)
07773329809 can do cards too :)

Rich
 

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I've been looking at the pricing on the net and it is very deceptive,
some sites list the ones I sell at a silly low price but when you get to the
site it is a different box and the actual one you searched for is more expensive.
And I actually emailed one guy who is advertising in the UK and the ad says UK delivery
but he is based in the USA and you would most likely get an import duty bill.

Rich
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Morning all....

Well it was 2 weeks ago that I left the Grumpy Uncle with all the wireing looking like an explosion in a spagetti factory, with the last task being to check that the new solar panel and regulator were working. When I left, the battery was reading 12.1 volts and the regulator/panel was apparently working. Its only connected to the engine battery which powers the bilge pump, so this is the one I want to keep in tip top condition. I will admit to being a bit worried as to what state it would be in after 2 weeks alone in a damp and gloomy Wales but I was well pleased to find the battery was actualy charged up in that time....I shut off the panel and my meter gave a reading of 13 volts!....I did notice the indicator on the regulator was showing it was NOT charging at the time so that is all working ok. The other thing is that its not even outside, but just led on the dash so it even gets shadows across it at various times of the day, so all in all, £60 well spent!

Ok......the re-wire continued all weekend, well saturday pm and all sunday. During the last 2 weeks I have been lucky enough to have our works sparky fill my car boot with all the bits and bobs I will need (well almost!) and more importantly, watching me practice with them here in work rather than travel the 150 miles to the boat and screw the whole thing up!

NOTE TO ANYONE USING HALFORD TYPE CRIMPS......BIN THEM NOW!.......You realy have no idea how they compare to a pair of PROPER ratchet type crimpers. Other than my first practice one, where I stripped the wire too long, I have not had to re-do ONE terminal. A proper pair of wire strippers helps here as well btw.

The old wooden instrument panel came off and the gauges were taken out, and all the wires to the old toggle switches removed....wow what a lot of wires, none of which are labled! The new plastic panel was "temporarily" put into place (not yet secured) and the gauges re-wired with labled cables and new feeds. A quick flick of the ignition and hey-presto!.....all working.

Then it was into the new distibution box.....made at work and looked at by Mr sparky first. All my joints and crimps were ok so I was happy.
Mounted on the bulkhead and feeds and earth put in......no feeds from fuses out yet, that will be next visit.

Next was the good bit!.....Mounted the split charge diode and Blue-sea isolator. A bit more of a challenge due to the thickness of the cables used, but by following Paul-G's wireing diagram it was a straightforward job. Checked and re-checked as it was "try-it" time. Checked it again......omg, what if I got it wrong and blow up the batteries?....checked it again and tightend up the nuts...again!
Turn ignition on....nothing.....what have I done wrong?
TURN ISOLATOR TO "ON"......derrrr!
Turn ignition on....ok
Gauges all illuminated and working...ok
Turn the key to turn engine over.....ok
Turn isolator to "combine"....wow....2 batteries turning the engine over now as fast as hell!....I am likeing this set up!

Well that was about it for me then, it was getting dark and a 2hr drive ahead of me. All in all well pleased with the work so far, but so very impressed with the isolator function.
Forgot to mention I have also renewed all the starter cableing and the engine earth......it was ok to be honest, a little tatty and a bit green at the terminals, but I have seen worse. The sparky knocked em up for me here, so although it wasn't planned, it was a few hours well spent yesterday.

I will be posting some pictures later today with a question or two for you to further help me on.

Jeff
TDPB
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This is the new panel.....a little bare at the moment, but we will be putting a fuel gauge in to make four in the corner and a larger tacho in to the left. Depending on size we may fit an fm stereo, but not sure about that yet. Excuse the carp pictures as it was getting dark and they were taken on my phone. Its only just placed in position and not fixed yet btw. Audio equipment Gas Machine Electronic instrument Multimedia
Boat Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering wheel Gas


You also have to imagine the whole area covered in black carpet type material?...its a sound absorbing stuff recomended by (I think?) Garyflyer on here....looks good when fixed in as well. We will be doing that this winter as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Circuit component Electricity Electronic engineering Electrical wiring Cable
This is my home brew fuse box. The mounting bolts are way too long and will be changed...there is always ONE item to leave at home afterall!
Wont be using all the fuses but they are now there just in case of future needs.....handy spares for now though.
There is one + feed to the busbar which then feeds all my fused items, then a live feed from the top of the busbar to my new (not yet installed) switch panel. The other + feed is the ignition feed from the isolator routed through the box. Obviously the main earth in at the bottom and an earth feed to the panel gauges out of the top. View attachment 152773
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Electrical wiring Electricity Cable Art Gas
This is the SCD and the Blue sea isolator. I have used existing wireing on the diode as it was in sound condition. The two wires top and right on the isolator go to the 2 batteries, the smaller bottom wire is to the + bus bar and the bigger wire on the left is the starter motor wire which also has the ignition wire fed from this terminal as well but difficult to see.

The center wire on the diode is fed from the alternator and the two either side of it goes to each battery.
All the cables will be tidied up and secured on my next visit, and if I have time, a lick of paint on the walls!
I now need to track down some terminal insulators or caps of some sort?...seen them used on various threads on here and would finish the job of better than tape! View attachment 152775
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I still have an issue with the alternator to sort out, so if anyone can point me in the right direction here to?....

For no apparant reason, on one of our last trips, the red ignition light stopped working and the voltmeter showed NO charge going into the batteries. I have since checked the light bulb and this is ok.
I have checked the wireing from the alternator terminal back to the bulb with my meter and this to is ok.
The alternator is making a good ground connection through its chasis onto the engine and the engine to battery ground is also good.

The alternator is of the Lucas AC type......I think it says AC35? but its hard to read to be honest....and has 3 terminals. One for the cable to the red lamp at the dash, and 2 output terminals. Both of these terminals were connected to seperate cables, which run under the deck and onto each battery. When I started stripping out old wires I noticed that one of them was actualy broken and the copper core would have been exposed to any bilge water slopping about. I am wondering if this may have caused a short of some kind as any bilge water would have also found its way to ground via prop shaft-gearbox-engine ect and done some damage to the alternator componants?

These 2 output wires were renewed on the weekend, but joined near the alternator so only one wire will feed the split charge diode btw but still no red light working.

The red lamp wire goes from the alternator to one of the lamp terminals, then from the other lamp terminal to a connection on the Lucas type ignition barrel...that all looks fairly simple. Could the ignition/key barrel be at fault? are they prone to break in such a way?

If anyone can give me a few pointers for checks ect I will be very gratefull.

Jeff
 
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