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dont get one with a level wind on ( their crap ),
put a spot of thick oil on the spool bearings ( slows it down a bit ),
if youv'e got mags , put em on full ( same with brake blocks ),
dont over fill the spool ( about 3/4 is enough untill you get used to it ) this reduces centrifugal force and helps stop over runs,
with new line , always have a few short casts to stretch and bed the line in ( casting with new line can be a nightmare for some )
make your casting as smooth as possible , dont go for distance ( that will come with time and you wont even realise it ),
and stick it under the tap after each trip
adjust the spool float so that it moves side to side only a tiny bit ( while doing it remember to have it in free spool , )
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cuberd
 

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Best bit of advice is dont run until you can walk !

As Cuberd says - get the technique right before thinking about distance, a nice overhead thump will soon progress to an OTG cast - need a nice smooth action with no jerks and aim high !

Cast in the daylight first so you can watch the lead land to brake - progress onto casting in the dark and learn to watch the spool to brake.

At first it is hard and you WILL birdie up but that is all part of it .... keep at it and it will come - I nearly went back to a FS reel but stuck at it and now with an OTG the lead flies !

Good luck ...
 

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can some body please help with some hints and tips on using a multiplier thanks

gary j,

What kind of multiplier is it - shore or boat? If the former, what sort of distances are you looking to cast? It would also help if you said what make and model it was, as they all have their slight differences in setting up and using. Without knowing the answers to these questions it isn't possible to give appropriate advice.

Cheers,

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i havent brought one yet it will be for shore i know that it will take time but any help i will be very grateful
 

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Before you go to the sea go to your local running track, football pitch or field and have a go at practice casting. Make sure it is safe, and that no-one will get hit by flying leads. Start off with a simple overhead thump and dont give up if it starts going wrong. If you put a bit of practice in before you go you will find it a lot more easier when you get to the beach or pier.
 
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if you go for a multi without a level wind,make sure you evenly level the line well.no loops or slack line etc as this will ensure you get a birdie the next cast.after a bit of practice it will come as second nature,good luck.....dave.:)
 

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ignore claims that mags prevent birdys , and whatever reel you choose expect line loss to begin with ,dont let this put you off its normal a multi is an unforgiving bugger but a fantastic bit of kit once it knows who is boss
 

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Out of interest which multiplyer where you thinking of buying Gary? I think that a Daiwa 7HT or Abu 6500CTC3 would suit a begginer if setup to run slow.
 

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Tips from someone who has recently converted (on the second attempt - the first ended in tears).

1. If you have a 'fast' reel e.g. a 6500 Rocket, get it slowed down first with bigger brake blocks and thicker oil - the shop that sells you the reel should do this for free if they are half decent. Better still, pay the extra £20 or so for the mag version - they are far more 'user friendly' and you don't need to re-tune it as you improve.

2. Make sure your rod is up to the mark - As you are looking for a slower smoother style, the rod needs to compress properly. I had endless problems until I used a softer rod.

3. The more weight the better - it is actually easier to cast 6oz than 4oz, it compresses the rod better and flies through the air better.

4. Start learning with your back to the wind - casting into wind also encourages birdsnests.
 

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Tips from someone who has recently converted (on the second attempt - the first ended in tears).

1. If you have a 'fast' reel e.g. a 6500 Rocket, get it slowed down first with bigger brake blocks and thicker oil - the shop that sells you the reel should do this for free if they are half decent. Better still, pay the extra £20 or so for the mag version - they are far more 'user friendly' and you don't need to re-tune it as you improve.

2. Make sure your rod is up to the mark - As you are looking for a slower smoother style, the rod needs to compress properly. I had endless problems until I used a softer rod.

3. The more weight the better - it is actually easier to cast 6oz than 4oz, it compresses the rod better and flies through the air better.

4. Start learning with your back to the wind - casting into wind also encourages birdsnests.
:) yup , cant argue with that tyn ,

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cuberd
 

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Hi

I have the Daiwa Millionaire 7HT (Still in the box) I really want to use it but am a bit worried about all this talk of bird nesting etc.

Totally new to the field of multipliers and have a few questions..


What does the clutch button do and when should it be pressed?

The brake settings are from 1 to 9 should I start off at 1 and work my way up?

As the lead hits the water from the cast do I instantly apply pressure to the spool with my thumb?

thanks
 

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ignore claims that mags prevent birdys , and whatever reel you choose expect line loss to begin with ,dont let this put you off its normal a multi is an unforgiving bugger but a fantastic bit of kit once it knows who is boss
I take it the reel is boss then ?................. :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
 

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mags do 'help' prevent birdies, but it doesn't matter how good you are, you'll get the occasional birdie, just as important as learning to avoid them, is learning to unpick them !! keep a bait needle to hand at all times !
 

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expect line loss to begin with ,dont let this put you off its normal a multi is an unforgiving bugger but a fantastic bit of kit once it knows who is boss
could not put it better my self! beuty in simplicity! and
plums has a good point! you will get them,
we all get them! you will soon learn to un pick
a birdy, its a test of patience that is as much
part of the youse of using a multy as aplying
thumb pressure at the right time!
unpleasnt but a part of it!
 

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i think for a beginner too use a multipier ,
i would personally go for a level wind multi, they are not crap and will get you into the way off using one,without he added hassle off trying too lay the line evenly while reeling in.
a level wind helps too eliminate nests/birdies. or whatever :) due too the even line on the spool.
then i think with more experience get a multi without a level wind.

just my thought.

all the best
 

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i think for a beginner too use a multipier ,
i would personally go for a level wind multi, they are not crap and will get you into the way off using one,without he added hassle off trying too lay the line evenly while reeling in.
a level wind helps too eliminate nests/birdies. or whatever :) due too the even line on the spool.
then i think with more experience get a multi without a level wind.

just my thought.

all the best
i agree with that in principle, but i do think that a beginner would soon pick up a multi (non lw) pretty quickly,

despite me using a level wind on and off for a year, i found i still had to kind of re-learn how to use it when i changed over to mag elites!
 

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i have only just started using multi`s myself but i have to say its not as bad as i was lead to believe.i bought a second hand 7ht for £30 because if i couldnt handle it i didnt wanna have to think of jumping in at the deep end and buying a supermag extra.line level is the biggest prob for me but your only another cast away from rectifying a line lay probelm :) just keep your thumb hovering over the spool and aim for 20 to 30 yards to start with (thats what i didi anyway) as if you power slam it out and it just birdies its gonna be a hell of a knot.

i now have a supermag extra :) and would only use my surf master for back up or maybe night fishing as im not skilled enough yet to use a multi in the dark.
 

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ive got a copy of sea dangler from last yr may 2006 its got a piece all about multis in it for the beginner also gotleader knot instructions
 
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