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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a small 17/18ft boat,that has the drain hole from the splashwell running out at the waterline, so lets the water in to the splashwell occasionaly..can a small elephant trunk be used to stop the water running up the drain ..but still allow it to run out of the splashwell.Can i make one somehow?
 

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Do not know what boat you have but it sounds like there is a lot of excess weight in the back end, but if you cannot trim the boat, a peice of neoprene fitted as a flap may help
 

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I have a small 17/18ft boat,that has the drain hole from the splashwell running out at the waterline, so lets the water in to the splaswell occasionaly..can a small elephant trunk be used to stop the water running up the drain ..but still allow it to run out of the splashwell.Can i make one somehow?
EG
Depends where it is-will a trunk be knocked by the engine? It may let water in at rest if it can be.
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just measured the drain hole exit,it is just short of 2" above the waterline ,the low part of the transom is 8" above the waterline its a gull winged boat
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do not know what boat you have but it sounds like there is a lot of excess weight in the back end, but if you cannot trim the boat, a peice of neoprene fitted as a flap may help
Excess weight? how do you mean? the only thing that is at/on the rear is the outboard,fuel cans and battery...
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The drain is to the right of the outboard, so i can fit a trunk or flap etc without the outboard hindering it. Thanks for the link.
 

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Excess weight? how do you mean? the only thing that is at/on the rear is the outboard,fuel cans and battery...
EG
I solved it (to a degree), by moving the fuel tanks to midships (& built seats over them, if you can move the battery forward as well that will help, (remember to increase the diameter of the cable if you do that).
I did it because I have an auxillary hung on the back as well, & when at anchor the water would slop in & out of the drain hole. I also made a hinged "watertight" door that seals off the splashwell from the rest of the boat, "just in case", following sea & all that nautical stuff!:whistling:
blueskip
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I solved it (to a degree), by moving the fuel tanks to midships (& built seats over them, if you can move the battery forward as well that will help, (remember to increase the diameter of the cable if you do that).
I did it because I have an auxillary hung on the back as well, & when at anchor the water would slop in & out of the drain hole. I also made a hinged "watertight" door that seals off the splashwell from the rest of the boat, "just in case", following sea & all that nautical stuff!:whistling:
blueskip
Looking at the boat now i to tend to have most weight ,like most do on the deck but mostly in the last quarter..the problem you say with the water entering the splashwell when at anchor is excatly the same as i have .I have increased the splashwell height so no water gets into the boat itself. I have counting now an outboard , a 22litre tank a battery kept under the transom and a second 22 litre tank and a 5 litre aux tank in the last quarter of the boat ...so by moving the fuel tanks forward it will reduce the weight on the stern..but how far forward can i reasonably put them with out upsetting the planeing .right up against the cabin?
 

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Looking at the boat now i to tend to have most weight ,like most do on the deck but mostly in the last quarter..the problem you say with the water entering the splashwell when at anchor is excatly the same as i have .I have increased the splashwell height so no water gets into the boat itself. I have counting now an outboard , a 22litre tank a battery kept under the transom and a second 22 litre tank and a 5 litre aux tank in the last quarter of the boat ...so by moving the fuel tanks forward it will reduce the weight on the stern..but how far forward can i reasonably put them with out upsetting the planeing .right up against the cabin?
EG
When you are "planing" is your bow up, or are you level and flat, either way your trim can be adjusted by putting the leg in or out. What does she look like when stationary and no body in her. Level and flat is the most efficient attitude, but can be a wet ride if the water is sloppy.
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When you are "planing" is your bow up, or are you level and flat, either way your trim can be adjusted by putting the leg in or out. What does she look like when stationary and no body in her. Level and flat is the most efficient attitude, but can be a wet ride if the water is sloppy.
she sits level at mooring, and planes at 12 knots with the bow up.i have the trim set out 3 out from the transom..,
 

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for you to be "planing", it sounds to me like the stern is being pushed down, & the bow is rising, as opposed to you being "on the plane", which is when the boat is up & level. What size engine have you got on it?
blueskip
 

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Are you running it with?
blueskip
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have no tilt and trim so cannot alter the trim when moving.I have a set of fins on the outboard .Is the weight then best put up front?
 

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To know what size engine, & what size & pitch prop you are running, that will help to give an idea of what the problem is.
blueskip
 

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Seeing as you haven't said what engine you have, I will say what I think you should have, for an 18ft "cathedral" hull which is what I believe you said it was?
Minimum 50HP, preferably 60 or 75HP, prop aluminium 11.25" - 11.75" diameter, pitch 13"-14", anything much smaller in HP, or bigger in prop pitch/dia is going to cause you to struggle.
We had a Shetland 535 with a 55HP Johnson Seahorse, & when that died, we got a Merc 65HP to go on it, suprised how much different it handled. I have 55HP with an 11.5" x 13" pitch on my 16ft single hull, & that takes its time to "get out of the hole".
blueskip
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So you think the problem of water entering the splashwell is because it is sitting to low in the water.So if getting up on the plane is a struggle then it is because of the weight that is all in the last quarter?. it has an approx 10 year old ob its a 40hp .. it runs ok..i dont know what the pitch of the prop is but assume its the original
 

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You are well underpowered at 40HP & if its old, its tired, (like me)! the prop will have its dimensions stamped on it somewhere. If its as old as you say, there should be another one mounted alongside it, to get you home when it eventually goes "tits up" on you.;)
I would advise an investment in something somewhat bigger, & somewhat newer, walking home aint an option with a boat.:whistling:
blueskip
 

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THE TROLLING MAESTRO
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You are well underpowered at 40HP & if its old, its tired, (like me)! the prop will have its dimensions stamped on it somewhere. If its as old as you say, there should be another one mounted alongside it, to get you home when it eventually goes "tits up" on you.;)
I would advise an investment in something somewhat bigger, & somewhat newer, walking home aint an option with a boat.:whistling:
blueskip
I have an aux as well but its not mounted on the transom ,but can be put there on the bracket when needed.I had a feeling it was underpowered but can live with it for awhile.If i put a bigger ob on it wont the weight of the bigger engine make the original problem more pronounced
 
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