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I have purchased some weighted lures for a forthcoming wrecking trip. I am told one of the latest popular methods is to use a light rod, 30 lb braid and attach the lure directly to the braid with a weight clip!!! I feel a bit uneasy about this and of the thinking that the braid can easily snag on the wreck without a shock leader? ( They are large..expensive lures.. in bubblegum pink for Pollack)The understanding behind this suggested method is to fish as simply as possible and do away with zip sliders and booms. Any advice from the experts would be greatly appreciated.
 

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You really need a mono leader when wrecking. The braid will ping as soon as it touches the wreck. It has no stretch at all.
 

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As above, and although pollock ain't exactly a blue marlin, they make some crashing dives sometimes and braid ain't suited to this, some shock absorbing is handy.
 

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Where I wreck fish out of Littlehampton in 200ft + of water you would never get a redgill, savagegear or sidewinder lure down to the wreck without a weight of 4oz. to 10oz. I have tried several techniques to get the lure in the right place and for me by far the best is 30lb. braid to a cheap plastic boom, bead and snap swivel to which I then attach what ever weight I need and a 25lb. fluorocarbon trace of varied length to the lure. I do lose lures using this method and that is a fact of life when fishing wrecks, but rarely lose the boom and or weight. Hope this helps, regards Rusty.
 

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A shock leader is sensible on wrecks or reefs to cater for the nicks and scrapes. As above 30lb braid plus shock leader with 25lb trace, wire tie or light line to weight if you want. Its either the lure or the lead that goes. I use a Portland rig for these days and have a large stock tied ready so re-rigging is quick so you don't miss a drift.
 

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i would use a mono leader 2 times the length of the rod because braid will snap if it has a small rub on the wreckage. to tie the mono to the braid i use the albright knot - Albright Knot | How to tie the Albright Knot | Fishing Knots
how heavy are your lures? if the tides are strong you'll probably need some extra weight to get it down faster.
for this i would use the Whitby rig we were told while fishing aboard sea otter two skippered by Paul Kirkpatrick ( bigcod is his username on this forum ) . all you need is a three way swivel, weight and trace that can be as long as you ant but about 4 ft is good i think( i use 25lb amnesia line for this ).
the mono leader ties to the top eye of the swivel, the weight can be tied to a rotten bottom ( line weaker than the mainline so that is the weight snags you don't loose all you other gear because the rotten bottom snaps first ) and the rotten bottom is tied to the bottom eye of the swivel and the trace for the lure is tied to the side eye of the swivel.you can use a normal swivel if you don't have 3 way ones but your weight and trace will have to share a swivel eye. by using this rig the lure might have a better action as it can flow in the tide with a more natural action and there will be more weight for it to sink fast. if your lures about 6oz then you should be ok just tying that to your leader but most lures aren't that heavy.
thanks
conor
 

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so do i n its not so expensive when you lose a few....
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The heaviest Redgill is probably a megavibe at 45g .............. you wont get that down 150ft , even at the last of the ebb.

Similar to rusty I use a portland rig and attach the lure with 4 - 6ft of 20LB fluoro ............. the main line is 30lb braid and the rod most used is the 6 -12 kenzaki .......... great fun ........... the main lead is usually an 8 or 10oz cannon ball.
 

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I have purchased some weighted lures for a forthcoming wrecking trip. I am told one of the latest popular methods is to use a light rod, 30 lb braid and attach the lure directly to the braid with a weight clip!!! I feel a bit uneasy about this and of the thinking that the braid can easily snag on the wreck without a shock leader? ( They are large..expensive lures.. in bubblegum pink for Pollack)The understanding behind this suggested method is to fish as simply as possible and do away with zip sliders and booms. Any advice from the experts would be greatly appreciated.
You would need a heavy lead jighead 80 - 200g for 30 - 60m. Strong tides and windy days are not suited to this method either. 30lb braid will be difficult with tide stepping down to 20lb with a short 30lb leader would help and is fine so long as the drag is set correctly and not fiddled with and a suitable rod to cushion the line used and smooth drag reel. Method is no better and certainly less efficient than a simple flying collar for catching. If used on a busy charter boat would likely not make you very popular with others either. Speed/slow jigging on the other hand is far more effective and can be deadly if done right!
 

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How do you make your own the mould I get but what material do you smelt lead?
Yes, a word in any metal recycling yard will see you buying scrap lead fairly cheaply (a lot cheaper than buying flashing to smelt anyway). We use an old camping stove outside, soot the mould up with a candle first (layer of carbon works well and also gets rid of any moisture - I can remember my dad failing to soot a mould up and decorating the ceiling with molten lead), melt the lead in a saucepan, pour in, wait a minute, break mould open, knock out and place in cool water!
 

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I think much will have to do with the depth you are fishing, the speed of drift and maybe whether you are on a charter or your own craft.
I would use 100g to get me down when the depth is not too great (under 180') and I can keep contact with the bottom (you will need to keep contact to effectively and consistently lure cod). If you cannot get down fast enough or cannot keep in touch with your lure you will catch pollack and that is about it (nothing wrong with pollack by the way, a cod more welcome after a few pollack). If on a charter and you are the only one employing these tactics you might not be flavour of the month!

There's more on jig head making http://www.topfisher.eu/its-all-in-your-head-jig-head-manufacture
 
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