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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a Predator 165 and have pretty much used up all the space on the top of my steering pedestal with my fishfinder and GPS.

I got a nice new Silva 85 compass for Chrimbo and it will just fit in-between my electronics but know that they may interfere with the compass (how much I don't know).

Has anyone else got around this problem or can offer any advice? My current (much smaller) compass is mounted on a bracket next to the steering wheel on the upright of the pedestal but I cant seem to find a bracket to take my new one.

Any ideas/advice?

Thanks

Simon
 

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If you can show us a photo of the current layout we may be able to suggest something. I had a similar problem but made a varnished teak bracket that looks really nice.
 

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I had a similar problem on my Explorer Elite - couldn't mount a compass on the console so that it was far enough away from the VHF. I got round it by mounting a steering/hand bearing compass (like this: Silva 70 UNE Compass - Only £99.95 - Force 4 Chandlery) at the front of the cuddy between the berths - sounds an odd position, but I got the idea from helming a tiller steered RIB that had a similar compass mounted on a bulkhead at the bow, and although it was some distance from the helm, it worked very well.

You can see the carrying bracket on the bulkhead between the berths in this photo...

 

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My compass on the Strikeliner is under the radar (close enough to the axis to avoid deviation) & well away from the other electronics. It's also on the mid-line of the boat, which helps when finding the least deviation when swinging it:

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your replies,

Salar, my set up is pretty much the same as Roy Bs photo apart from I have a gap in-between my electronics for the compass to fit, Roy do your electronics not throw your compass out at all?

Mounting it on the cuddy roof as Para may be an option bt I have a feeling it may be a bit high (I only have limited access to my boat until April 1st).

Thanks

Si
 

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I mounted mine on the forward bulkhead, well away from the electronics and cables in the console. As I found my compass was affected by them.
Although it's about 5ft away, it's still very easy to see.
 

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Hi Simon took another picture today so you can see how close the compass is to the fish finder , the Ritchie compass has a trim screw and allows you to give slight adjustment , all was set up with my hand bearing compass at first I thought it was a no go job but it was pulling to my car parked beside the boat moved the car away and it only moved about 3 degrees difference to my hand compass slight adjustment and all is good. Roy
 

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I replaced my plotter and fish finder in the winter. The top of my console looked a right mess where all the old screws came from and the new brackets did not cover them so I cut a piece of hard wood, varnished it and stuck it on top the console. Moved my compass to the lip about half way down the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies, Rob my compass doesn't have any calibration built in so I think Ill be looking at either mounting it on the cuddy roof or locating a bracket for it.

Dave Ill be copying your good hardwood idea as I have the same holy console, I like the look of yours!

Simon
 

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I used 5mm white acrylic instead of wood, & heat formed it:

 

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Where did you get the clear acrylic in the other pics and how did you form it, Thanks Damian
You can get the acrylic on ebay.

I formed the clear acrylic with three heat guns & two electric fires, four scaffolding planks, a couple of broom handles and a lot of sash clamps. Less for the smaller white bits........
 

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Doubtful with just one gun with 5mm thick acrylic. You'll need to practise on some scrap. If its a curved screen it's a pain to get the curve an even one. I made some curved sections for another project and cut templates to go under the sheet of acrylic, put a few steel bars on top to weigh it down, then applied heat from the electric fires underneath, and heat from two guns at the same time top & bottom so that the sheet ultimately took the form of the templates, but it takes time & patience as too much localised heat can cause blistering & deformation.

And take the protective film off both sides first..........
 

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If you get the heat distribution right, you should get a smooth bend with no heat marks.

 

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Too much heat & you get blistering like this:



That's a part of the bait table I made from the bits of scrap I practised on.
 
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